jay_chadney

<p>Are you asking how to fix it yourself?<br>

No. I have already adjusted it to be aligned at infinity.</p>

<p>So the rf patch on my new r-d1 is aligned perfectly at infinity. However, when I am focusing at close distances the rf patch is NOT aligned (the moving image is higher that the sattionary image). How to fix this?<br /> <br /> FWIW, my Leica M6 exhibits the same issue, although not as much and in reverse (at close focus, the moving image is lower that the stationary image. My M3 does not exhibit this penomenon. My M6 has had a complete overhaul within the past few years (before I purchased the camera)<br /> <br /> I have done the required searches, but all the posts are talking about the resulting photos being front or back focused - not the actual patch being off at close, while on at infinity.<br /> <br /> Thought, suggestions?<br /> PS, my r-d1 is still under warranty.</p>

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<p>That <em>is </em> a nice shot. Congrats!</p>

<p>Film box top?</p>

<p>I was at an Epson Print Academy last weekend and OnOne did a presentation on many of their products. The things that impressed me about Focal Point and all the others was how FAST they were. Major changes to the look and feel of the image were being done in a mater of seconds!</p>

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<p>from the beginning of '08:<br>

wye7@yahoo.com</p>

<p>don't finish cocking the lever until the back is closed. That's what I did when I had my 7, and I never had an issue with spacing or anything.</p>

<p>You could always hang a wrist strap off of the left eyelet. Some folks claim it works well.</p>

<p>just put some black tape over the rangefinder window(?) - the one in the middle. That will give you a cheap, temporary fix.</p>

<p>I have been re-tnhinking my bag an if I should get a teleconverter or not.<br>

I have/had several lenses that I was trying to narrow down.</p>

<ul>

<li>sigma 70-200/2.8</li>

<li>nikon 80-200/2.8 afs</li>

<li>sigma 100-300/4</li>

<li>tamron adaptall 300/2.8 with 1.4tc</li>

</ul>

<p>I took several shots at different apertures. When comparing the results, I compared all 3 zooms at 300mm (i cropped the results from the 2 shorter zooms), then I compared the winner of that contest to the adaptall lens (with cropping the shorter one again)</p>

<p>My results: the Nikon 80-200 afs gives me the best results when cropped to 300mm - better than the 100-300 with zero cropping.<br>

Then came testing the 80-200 afs cropped to 420mm against the manual focus prime lens. That test was very close. It seems I can push my Nikon quite a ways!</p>

<p>That is one very obese brown recluse!</p>

<p>Awesome! I would love a membership.</p>

This is not Nikon specific, but since I own a Nikon, here it is. Let's start with the premise that the following

2 statements are true:

 

1. a high quality 1.4x teleconverter will result in minimal AF and image quality loss.

2. a high quality 2x teleconverter will result in AF and image quality loss to a point that discerning users do

not use them.

 

What would be the effect of using two 1.4x teleconverters instead of a 2x tc? Would the second converter result

is a major loss of AF and IQ? Or would it act just like the first one did, and not have too much of a negative

effect?

 

I am assuming that the focal length factor would be 1.4 times 1.4 (1.96x), and not 1.4 plus 1.4 (2.8x). Is that

an accurate assumption?

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I am re-arranging my set-up. I love medium format film, and am selling my fuji 670III to get a Hasselblad 50mm CF

FLE. I will next get a body for said lens. Maybe a 150mm down the road. I am thinking this will be my "go to"

gear for landscape photography.

 

In my D2x bag I have:

Tokina 12-24 f4

Nikon 17-55 f2.8

Sigma 30 f1.4

Sigma 150 macro

Sigma 70-200 f2.8

Sigma 100-300 f4

 

I am thinking of 2 options to "lighten my load" of slr lenses that are of 85mm or less:

1.Keep only the 30mm and get an 85 f1.4. That gives me 2 very fast lenses. Sell the 12-24, 17-55.

2. Sell the 12-24, 17-55 and 30 and buy a Nikon 24-70. No lens changing.

 

I have shot 2 weddings and would like to get more into it. Can a wedding be done with a 30 and an 85? I could

keep the 70-200 on a back shelf for the times when I needed it. I cannot sell it for much $. Maybe if I had a

second body...

 

There are several other lenses I am not listing because I feel they need to go anyway (15-30, 60 macro, 80-200

afs, mf 300 2.8)

 

I also shoot Leica. I can use that for what the dslr and the 6x6 don't cover. If on a vacation, I could either

take the leica, or a 24-70 on my dslr. Or the 30 and the 85....

 

Thoughts? Other ideas?

Thanks

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Pay it forward. I am tossing my name in the hat.

Jay

Go to www.rangefinderforum.com

Thanks.

This has had zero responses over on another site, s I will post it here:

I just tried out a Think Tank belt system. Seems good, but the belt was

impossible to adjust on the fly. I had to remove it, loosen the strap, then try

to guess the right length I wanted.

I am drawn to the Kineses belt because it can be adjusted while being worn. I

think this would be better as one day I may be wearing a coat, then removing it

later (as in a hiking activity).

Other differences:

A Kinesis system will run about 10% more $. No biggie.

Think Tank stuff can slide around on the belt. Important? Can a lens case in the

back be easy to get to if locked in place a la Kinesis?

Think Tank and Lowepro stuff can fit on a Kinesis belt according to Kinesis.

Does it go around the whole belt (like Think Tank in "rotate" mode) or does the

narrow strap on the Kinesis belt allow the plastic tab to go through and lock in

place? This is a biggie for me. If the Kinesis webbing isn't sewed on to the

belt in between each metal "latch" then the belt can be used just like a Think

Tank belt with Think Tank pouches.

There is so much high praise for Think Tank right now that there is plenty to

read up on. The Kineses gear has fewer followers that post their thoughts. Any

one have/had both and directly compare them for me?

I would probably be using a belt and 3 lens cases. If I go with Think Tank I

would add a Speed Changer (?) and would get a Reporters Waist Pack with Kinesis.

I am undecided if I want a holster for lens/camera or if a bag for the body only

would be good. Your thoughts and comments would be appreciated.

Jay

I shoot with a d2x, and just bought a the Sigma lens for a decent price. It is

a pre-dg version. I tested it against my Nikon 80-200 af-s, and it is just

about the same sharpness throughout. I bought the Sigma, because I never use

the nIkon as it is TOO BIG AND HEAVY. I wanted something a little less massive.

The Sigma has a problem (I think) locking onto focus when in C focus mode. It

will just start clicking, and focusing back and forth about an inch or two

from where the subject is.

 

Click-click-click-click....... very fast.

 

I called Sigma and they said the older non-dg,non-macro lens may need to

be "adjusted" for me. I have read all the reviews of the Sigma lenses for the

past week. I stayed up late every night trying to decide on 70-200

(dg,macro,II, etc), 50-150 (I or II), and have tested the Nikon 70-200 VR. I

interpreted the reviews on the 70-200 to say that if you get a sharp copy of

the non-macro, non-dg lens, then keep it - it is hard to beat. A new Sigma 70-

200 dg macro II is very tempting, as well as the 50-150. I am using a Nikon 17-

55 right now (among other things) and just bought a MF 300/2.8 for my backyard

birding and trips to the zoo.

 

My longer zoom lens would be used for kids sports, roller derby matches, maybe

some macro if I get a 2 element diopter like the Canon 500d.

 

Questions: Has anyone experienced this clicking and/or inablity to reliably

lock focus in C mode?

 

Should I send it in to Sigma?

 

Or try to re-sell it to someone who may not experience this problem (maybe

they have an older/slower body) and get a brand new lens? I feel the 50-150

would need a 1.4x converter for me to feel justified in purchasing it (150mm

to 300mm is a big gap). Although the even lighter weight is a huge draw. The

17-55 and 50-150 combo with a 300/2.8 and 12-24/4 for fun might be a good

combo.

 

Thoughts? Thanks.

I just got a Tamron Adaptall SP 300/2.8 (model 60B) manual focus lens. I really

like it, but the focus ring alternates between being sticky and loose. When I

focus, it grabs a bit, then releases, making it hard to get an exact focus on my

subject sometimes. Is there an at-home fix? Can I squirt/drip a little wd-40 in

there? I heard that lighter fluid has worked to free up sticky focusing on

Canonet rangefinders. Would that work?

 

Anything else?