jay_chadney

<p>Cool idea for un-boxing videographers: An un-boxing of a laptop that is playing an un-boxing video of said laptop.</p>

I have a line on a good deal for the af 2.8, but the front element is loose. Thoughts on cost to fix?

<p>I have been doing real estate photography for a year +<br>

http://chadney.zenfolio.com/<br>

Lighting, and how to use it very important. I carry with me 2 flashes that can both be fired off camera with Pocket Wizards. It all depends on the room. Sometimes no flash, sometimes one, sometimes 1 one camera and 1 off, sometimes both off camera.<br>

I use a d3 with a 17-35 and make sure each photo is the best it can be before I upload it for the Realtor.</p>

<p>Lonely<br /> <img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2703/4426950823_79d417c655.jpg" alt="" /></p>

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<p>So just turn the camera upside down and try to dip just the shutter dial in a pool of lighter fluid?</p>

<p>My exposure compensation "dial" is hard to move. It catches and I have to do odd maneuvers with my hands to get a good angle to move the compensation sometimes. I feel like I could break it with as much pressure as I am putting on it, and I am getting a deep indent in my finger from the little button! I had another 7ii a few years ago and it was very easy to move the compensation from -2 to +2 and back again, so I know how it should be.<br>

Can I just remove the little black thing with the 2 holes for a spanner wrench and the entire shutter dial will come off so that I can investigate/clean? I don't want to open a can of worms and have parts spring out on me. I just want to try and save $60 or so to take it into a shop.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>www.rangefinderforum.com</p>

<p>Yeah, the girl in front is standing where part of the table would be if she was in the same space/time dimension.</p>

<p>Use those COMMAND hooks. That might be what you were thinking of when you referred to 3M strips. I know they make ones for up to 5 pounds, maybe they make more.</p>

<p>I have just started using an Intuos 2 about 3 weeks ago. I have to go back and forth with the pen/mouse in Photoshop CS2 for one reason - the pen doesn't work to select the different tool options. When I want to change from eraser to background eraser (for example) only the mouse will do it. Am I missing some setting?<br>

I am finding the pen to get easier to use the more I force myself to use it for even non-photo stuff, like email, surfing, etc.</p>

 

<p>Thanks a lot for all the help. It sounds like I need to wait a bit and when I am ready to upgrade software then that may be the time to look at switching platforms.<br>

Jay</p>

<p>I am a PC user, but itching for a new laptop. What if I bought a MacBook as a way to get me into macs. My desktop will need replacing soon, and then I could get a Mac desktop. But my question is: How does running Photoshop differ when running on a mac vs a PC?<br />If I bought into mac, I would need to be able to run my PC version of CS2, maybe Office 2003, and Quickbooks 2009. Would I see any difference or gain anything by using a mac?</p>

<p>There was nothing available for my Dimage Scan Multi Pro when I upgraded from XP to Vista. I "had" to buy Vuescan as it was the only thing that was compatible. Don't know if this helps. Vuescan has great customer service from Ed.</p>

<p>I don't know about the 60, but the handle for my 50 CF goes in AFTER removal of the rubbery focus ring of the lens. I struggled with figuring this out myself.</p>

I found a store with a camera and lens to so some testing. It is my lens that is causing the problem. What is a cost to fix?

<p>Handheld meter? yes, I have a few I use, but I kinda wanted the "speed" offered by aperture priority shooting/metering. Plus the blinking light is irksome.</p>

Sorry for the typo. When I typed ”is in through the lens" I meant to type ”isn't through the lens”.

I do not have the luxury of trying other lenses. How can the lens affect the meter if it is not ttl?

<p>I just bought a user Mamiya 7 w/ 65 lens. I had a 7II previously. This camera has a problem with the light meter. When in A or AEL, the far right arrow in the viewfinder blinks no matter what changes I make to any exposure settings. When in manual exposure mode, the meter does not indicate the correct shutter speed I need to be at.<br>

I have only found one person on the internet that posted a similar issue. He never found a solution, but determined that it had to do with his 65mm lens, as his 43 and 150 metered just fine. This doesn't make sense because the meter for the camera is in through the lens......<br>

Contacts are clean, new batteries have been tried, etc. Has anyone ever had this issue? Did you get it fixed?</p>

<p>Welcome aboard from Portland.</p>

<p>I was very tempted by a Canon 24/1.4 and a 1d mark3. The pairing had issues with getting correct focus more than 75% of the time. I still keep that combo in the back of my mind though. It is a really nice set up in my eyes. Wider than my 30mm sigma on my d2x by quite a bit considering both the focal length of the lens and the lower crop factor of the Canon camera.</p>

<p>Well, I decided to stay with Nikon (even stay with my D2x for a while) and bought a 70-200 VR that was next to the 1d Mark III in the used case. The Canon gear will be sold along with my 80-200 af-s and maybe even the Sigma 100-300/4. Thanks for the entertaining dialogue.</p>

Thanks for all the ideas. Getting a lesser $ Canon body is not something I had thought of. Time for more +/- columns.

<p>I came upon very fortunate circumstances the other day and was given a 100-400 IS lens along with the purchase of a 70-200 2.8 non-IS. It was a deal even this Nikon shooter could not pass up.<br>

I have been considering upgrading my Nikon D2x for some time now, and this situation has thrown a new twist in. I could abandon Nikon and get a 1d Mark III to go along with my 2 new lenses. Of course, I would need something shorter than the 70-200. I was set to get a 21/1.4 today with the 1dIII, but I kept getting inconsistent results - sometime the focus was spot on when in AI Servo, but way off when in single mode (or what ever it is called). Other test shots, it was the Single mode that was correct and the AI Servo shot was off. I did these tests for 30 minutes switching back and forth between 2 bodies.<br>

If I stayed with Nikon and upgraded to a D700, I would need to replace all my shorter lenses (12-24, 17-55, 30) to go with the FF. Money wise, it is a toss up - take advantage of the jump start with the 2 big canon lenses, or sell them for a great profit and use the $ to upgrade my Nikon.<br>

I could keep my D2x and upgrade my 80-200 to the 70-200 vr (I feel it is an upgrade)<br>

To the question: Is getting this "free" 100-400 enough of a reason to switch back to Canon?<br>

Current items in use with my D2x:<br>

12-24/4 Tokina DX<br>

17-55/2.8 Nikon DX<br>

30/1.4 Sigma DX<br>

85 /1.8 Nikon<br>

150/2.8 Sigma Macro<br>

80-200/2.8 Nikon afs<br>

100-300/4 Sigma<br>

sb-800<br>

Other things you might like to know about me: I like the pro bodies better than bodies that need an add-on grip, I shoot everything from my kids, to real estate photography, two weddings (done 2, but have not gone out to try to get more), to youth sports, to landscapes, to "street". Pretty much everything.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a 50 and 150 and have really been considering getting rid of the 150 in favor of the 100. I don't shoot much, but it just seems like that's the set-up I should use.</p>