subha

thank you for your response. I took the lens to Canon Service center here in Irvine, California. They are charging about $85.00 as there is a missing element. And they will fix it, with a 6 month warantee. They take about 7 to 10 business days, and i can just drive up there and pick it up in person.

Lens: 50mm EF f1.4

 

I was using this lens, and didn't twist the lens until it clicked. It

fell off and the lens at the back end broke and came off. The lens

part is intact. And also the AF/MF part that holds the lens broke off.

I put the pieces together manually.

 

However now the lens does not focus manually, or automatically. Can

this lens be repaired or fixed. Do i need to take it to Canon only, or

will a local shop fix it?

 

thanks

Subha

I am using a Canon EOS 10D with white balance set to Auto. I am

shooting a subject against a white cloth background. In this case the

white cloth background is on the ground and the subject sitting facing

up, or lying on the cloth.

 

Question is, i see the cloth coming up as Blue in color. It is more

prominent around the subject's body where the blue color is darker and

strong.

 

The lighting i am using is natural daylight, and the subject and white

cloth are in Shadow, meaning not under direct sunlight. No sunlight

appears on the subject or the cloth.

 

I am shooting in JPG mode.

 

What is it that i need to do to make the white cloth appear white?

 

thanks

I have a Canon Zoombrowser 5.0 for Windows XP. This problem surfaced

just a couple of days ago. This has to do with viewing images on the

Image viewer.

 

I cannot view the image unless i MAXIMIZE it. If i do a restore its

size, it gets iconified. And there is an option called MOVE or SIZE

and it does nothing.

 

So right now all i can do is view it MAXIMIZED and i cannot seem to

get around it.

 

Does anyone have this similar problem and how do we get around it?

 

thanks

Subha

I will be shooting two people one in foreground and one standing

behind the person in front a close up portrait. When I shoot a single

person i usually set my aperture to f2.8 on my 50mm EF 1.4 lens. At

that setting anyone else would be out of focus.

 

What would be the ideal aperture setting to bring both in focus and

blur out the background. Is it f8.0.

 

I am using a Canon EOS 10D and my other lens is 28-135mm IS (Canon EF)

 

- thanks

I did an exclusive test shot of both EF 50mm f1.8 and f1.4. The f1.8 has a lens/thread diameter of 52mm, vs 58mm for f1.4. There alone the amount of light collected by an f1.4 lens at f2.0 for example is a lot greater than f1.8 lens for the same aperture. You gain a couple or more f stops with f1.4 lens.

 

Next the bokeh is a lot nicer, and most importantly the colors the f1.4 obtains is a lot better than f1.8 lens.

I went to Canon website for documentation (PDF) for 28-135mm IS lens, and could not find any..

I have been using the 28-135mm EF IS lens. Under low light and cloudy

conditions, i have noticed images turned out blurry and shaky at 1/8

or 1/10 sec, when shot hand held. I was holding my hands very steady.

Sometimes the next frame is properly focused.

 

I had the same problem of the lens not properly focusing on the

subject, specially when the subject is at a certain distance, and

image turns out to be soft. Once again this is in overcast

conditions.

 

My White balance is set to Auto. And i also upgraded my firmware to

2.0.1. I don't think the camera's mechanical focusing mechanism has

any bearing with firmware.

 

please help.

 

thank you

Subha

I already have a 10 in 1 card reader. The CF is corrupted, however on the 10D i can see the images i need to recover.

My compact flash card is corrupted as i tried to connect EOS 10D to

my Windows 2000 PC with Twain drivers. I have latest Zoom browser

4.61a. The directory structure got corrupted, and i salvaged about

120 out of 240 images. The rest have unreadable characters.

 

However when i stick in the Flash card into my 10D, i can still see

the images i need to recover.

 

What can i do, any ideas? I tried copying over the directories and

renaming them, but Windows 2000 is un-cooperative.

 

Any salvagable chances on a Linux OS?

 

- Subha

I am getting the SanDisk Ultra Ii 60x speed. It would be quite helpful in uploading images into the computer using USB 2.0 correct, compared to a simple CF card?

 

Also if i shoot 9 frames per second on many occasions, the speed of the Flash is critical right?

There are 2 compact flash cards for 1GB i am looking at. One is the

regular compact flash 1GB from Sandisk, and another one is SanDisk

Ultra Ii Compact Flash. There is no specification for Regular compact

flash and it is about 50.00. The Ultra Ii has a write rate of 9

MB/sec and read rate of 10MB/sec;

 

what is your recommendation?

I did play with both f1.8 and f1.4 lens. First off the f1.8 has a diameter of 52mm, while f1.4 has a 58mm diameter. The light gathering capacity for the f1.8 is less at f1.8 in compared to f1.8 for the f1.4 50mm lens.

 

I noticed the colors are a lot stronger and better in the f1.4 lens. I noticed image shake and blur for the f1.8 at 1/30 sec. The f1.4 at the same aperture had a higher shutter speed, i think 1/60 sec.

 

There you go.. hope that helps.

 

besides...the f1.8 is noisy when it comes to focusing.

I would like to find out is it really worth while spending $1500.00

on a 20D, compared to spending just under $1000.00 for a 10D body.

Apart from faster response time and EF-S is it worth the additional

500.00 to be spend?

 

thanks

I saw 10D pricing at ExpressCamera.com for $999.00 (Do a simple google search for Canon 10D). And i also saw two other unbelievable low prices.

royalcamera.com: $679.00 (body)

amphotoworld.com : $809.00 and the rebel there is $539.00?

 

The bottom two sites don't give any warranty..

Recently on the web i saw the Canon EOD 10D body price by two New

York online vendors:

Royal Cameras : $679.00

AM Photo world: $809.00

 

I called them up and wanted to find out about warranty. They said

this is an international model, and there is no US warranty.

 

The closest i have come which has full warranty is Express Camera.com

and they sell it for $999.00

 

Does anyone have any ideas, or comments on Royal cameras and AM Photo

world?

 

thanks

The Canon IS S1 seems very interesting. i was wondering if anyone

here had a chance to test it out. This is a camera definately to

watch and keep an eye on.

Portable harddrive is the way to go... there are now upto 20GB and 40GB drives.. that cost less than 300.00..

I have a Nikon Coolpix 4500, it takes longer to write FINE image, and worst is the battery depletes very fast in 30 mins. I have an IBM 1 GB Microdrive.

 

I used the very same 1GB Microdrive on Canon 10D for a day, and i must tell you, the 10D is way too fast.. in other words, it buffers up the shots and writes them to the disk, without you waiting to take the next shot..

 

truly it must have some sorta Multiprocessing ARM chip, where the camera can perform multiple tasks.. which is clearly missing in the Coolpixes..

Does anybody have any info or status of the Irvine based company

SiliconFilm. They have a digital back for existing Film SLR cameras,

allowing taking digital pictures. The EFS-4 and EFS-10 also supports

CF-I/II.

 

Of course if the EFS-4 is way too expensive in orders of 1000.00 then

it is not price competative..

 

thanks

 

 

URL: http://www.siliconfilm.com/

The Sigma SD10 has a maximum of 30 seconds in bulb mode.. i was really eyeing that camera with Foveon X3 technology. But 30 seconds in bulb mode is not a good selling point.

Look up http://www.projectorcentral.com/

Has anyone used Reverse Adapter by Novoflex successfully on a EOS

10D? could you share your experience.. and the pictures please.

 

-=

Coolpix 4500 produces really grainy images at ISO 400, also at ISO

200 the grain is quite visible. What can one do to reduce grain,

asides from using NeatImage software.

 

thanks

My Coolpix 4500 LCD has been badly scratched.. any remedies?