rich_b1

To be honest, I have preferred film vs digital. Just my taste & not a blast against the newer format. While not a remote area, my travel to Europe earlier this year illustrates one of the problems with just going digital.

 

My wife & I went to a wedding near Hamburg, then were doing the typical American tourist thing going to Salzburg, Vienna, Budapest, & visiting some relatives in Bavaria, traveling by train. For this trip, I didn't want to schlep the big body & lenses & a supply of film for my Canon EOS Elan IIe, and decided to just travel light with my Canon G-1 digital, 2 small lenses, charger, extra battery & 1.5GB worth of CF cards. At the last minute of packing, my camera anxieties took over & I included my EOS, zoom lenses, & took some film out of the freezer, rationalizing that I didn't have to carry it all around; I could just take out the big boy if I needed to shoot the most beautiful landscape ever seen, while traveling around Salzburg. Otherwise, I'd use the G-1. The G-1 performed admirably at the wedding, and in Salzburg, (I never did get to shoot that gorgeaous landscape) but then died in Vienna. You can't just get that fixed overnight, so for once, I looked brilliant to my wife (no small accomplishment) for bringing the film camera!

 

Point of my long-winded story is that there are many instances recounted on a number of forums of digital cameras dying an early death, & very few regarding film. Its just the nature of the technology.

 

I for one, believe your plan to use film is the correct one, just take a fresh, extra battery, and take precautions to protect your film against the elements. I'm sure you're aware of not packing the film in luggage, since the higher power scans will ruin it.

 

Good luck & have a great time.

 

Rich B

"I'm getting a lot of great and sharp images with my third party prime lenses"

 

I think you've answered your own question. If you are happy with the performance, then why worry about a label?

I also have the pistol grip, and as Craig said it may or may not be right for you, however, if you're going to consider it, check this new one. It appears that the horizontal configuration may be more flexible in use.

 

http://www.bogenphoto.com/product/templates/itemalone.php3?itemid=2529

 

Good luck,

 

Rich B

Check this link. Its not the official manual, but they have great information on this flash and many other EOS system items.

 

http://eosdoc.com/manuals.asp?q=540EZ

 

Good luck,

 

Rich B

Probably the most popular area is Hoover Dam & Lake Mead, as I recall, about 1 hour outside of "The Strip". A few years ago, we rented a pontoon boat on the lake and got some awesome views and had a great time. You also can tour the dam itself (unless post 9/11 security has stopped that). Also, a number of years ago, I played golf on the Paiute Indian Reservation, which was about 45 minutes outside of town. The vistas in that area with the mountain backdrop were gorgeous.

 

I know you said Grand Canyon is too far, but you might want to consider flying over it. There are plenty of organized tours from town, where they bus you out to Boulder City and then pick up the small (6 passenger) planes. Photo opportunities are tough, but the views burned into your memories are worth it. Only precaution is don't go when its windy or after 1 PM. Even though it may not be hot in March, the thermal inversion in late afternoon can cause a turbulent ride on which you and the barf bag will be best friends, thus spoiling those brilliant views.

 

Have a great trip.

 

Rich B

As good as my experience has been with Mack, if you have to lay out the repair money and hope for their goodwill, I'd be a bit leary of it. Unless you can find others who attest to a positive outlook, I would not buy that warranty. Under the US warranty, Mack has a closer control on the repair costs since in most cases they either do it themselves or farm it out to another repair facility with which they have an existing agreement. Check www.dpreview.com to see if you can find other opinions on the international warranty.

 

Good luck

I recently sent my 2 1/2 year old Canon G-1 to Mack, when it died. The camera would not power up. After about 3 weeks, they notified me that they couldn't fix it, but were sending it to Canon for repair. I received it back 4 weeks later, working as well as when new. In the past, they repaired a Canon EOS Elan IIe under the warranty, in which I had damaged the shutter blades while changing film.

 

My experience with Mack has been totally positive, other than the lengthy time it took to get the G-1 back.

 

Good luck,

 

Rich B

I strongly disagree with the other posters, that the extended warranties are not necessary on this equipment. My experience is that problems don't crop up at the beginning, but later on. Check this thread: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1010&message=6543269

 

I have since received back my G-1 in perfect working order. The Mack warranty is pretty cheap protection IMO.

 

Good luck

 

Rich B

Daniel,

 

This has been a much discussed topic on http://www.photography-on-the.net . There was a link to this repair someone did themselves, however the moderater keeps removing it. I copied it just the other day, and here is the information below. Also, there is a thread there where someone was able to get Canon to repair his camera for free out of warranty. It may be worth a shot if the alternative is to throw it away.

 

Good luck,

 

Rich B

 

Re: Canon G1-dead? No More

 

One of my best mates has a Canon G1 and it died on him when it was out of warranty.

 

I'm an electronic engineer and I design surface mount circuits, so I knew my shit. I would have next to no idea where the problem was, and with no circuits, its like a needle in a haystack. But I would have a better clue than the average joe, so this is what I found.

 

To cut a long story short we fixed it. It was a 3.15A surface mount fuse (little orange package) on the power reg/memory card PCB.

 

When you test across a blown fuse, your looking for a high resistance, I was suprised when it was about 80Kohms, normally it would be an open circuit. If the fuse was fine, you would have read a low resistance >1ohm.

 

I ordered in a 3A 24V max 1206 SM fuse (for AUS$0.80)(Only one off our supplier that I could get) , and replaced the blown fuse.

 

We joked that we could take a picture of what we had done, but the camera was stuffed and in pieces But for your info, I borrowed my boss's camera and took these pictures for you of the power PCB.

 

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~jono/PowerInterfacePCB.JPG

 

You wouldn't pull apart the camera unless you have have the right tools and would do it no different to the service guys themselves. I would be so pissed of if someone tried to bring me a camera they had put together wrong, and said they hadn't pulled it apart and tried to fix it.

 

It was highly time consumming fix it job, the circuits are so well packed together, attached with flexible PCBs(with clamp locks you have to undo) and powerleads with small clip locks. Use tweesers and love.

 

Tips if you try it (at your own risk, but a well educated risk is much better)

- Keep a track of the length and thread type of the screws you pull out.

- Try not to bend the flexible PCBs to much, as they do break. Support them with anything a the right height.

- Make sure you treat it with care, use the right tools and static protection.

- Don't not take away a box of spare parts when you are done. If you have the tools, it just saved my buddy over AUS$300 in a service.

 

Its not Canons fault the fuse is designed to blow, its designed to protect the circuit and it did its job well. We now have a working camera after 4hours labour and organisation.

Ryan,

 

Good for you. My daughter returned last year from 3 years (she extended) in the Peace Corps in Namibia. It was an experience that will shape the rest of her life in a most positive fashion.

 

In her situation, she was in a village with no electricity, phone or running water. There was some solar, and it was enough to power a TV for limited use, so if available, for sure could charge your camera battery. She had a laptop with her, with 2 batteries, which she used to help out in the school where she worked, but used it sparingly. Every few weeks, she'd be able to get into the nearby town and would charge up the batteries. In your case, if you go ahead with digital, you'd probably be best off to buy a bunch of batteries (as cheap as $10.00 on E-Bay from eforcity) and a standalone charger.

 

You have a complicated situation here in your camera choices. If you're going to get the Rebel D anyway, go ahead & have fun with it, however, if it is with a mind to your service in a few years, you may want to wait and see. The Canon is the first sub $1,000 D-SLR, and surely there will be more at increasingly lower prices &/or more feature-rich.

 

On one hand, a digital would be less convenient with the problem of charging it, however on the other hand, it would be more convenient in that you would not have to buy, store & handle film and wait weeks or months perhaps in a hot &/or moist environment to get it developed (putting the film at risk). Then again, there are major concerns in bringing ANY expensive piece of equipment to that posting; for instance my daughter was in a hot, dusty, desert environment, and ruined 2 decent P & S cameras. She probably did not take appropriate steps to protect them, however, in that desert, the dust is so fine, that when I visited her there, even though my SLR & lenses were always protected other than when shooting, the dust got into them & I had to have everything thoroughly cleaned when I got back. A more serious concern is the possibility of theft. Most of the people in the areas where Peace Corps volunteers go are so poor, that some one will try to make a few bucks on your equipment. Another, separate issue is portraying the image of the "rich, ugly American" by flashing all this equipment to people who can never hope to acquire the same. I'm not saying don't take your good stuff with you, just that if you do, you must be prepared to go home without it.

 

I wish I could put myself in the great Galen Rowell's shoes to answer your query, however, if I could, that would mean I'm a great photographer, which alas, I am not! I just enjoy it.

 

Good luck with your decision on cameras, and your pursuit of this extraordinary service.

 

Rich B

Massimo,

 

You've already found the best answer...the lensmate adapter. Quality product at reasonable price and good people to do business with.

 

Happy shooting

 

Rich B

Last year I picked up a used IS & sold my original non-IS version of this lens on Ebay. It was in preparation for an Alaska cruise. Having used both versions of this lens for my Elan IIe, I have to say the IS definitely rules. It is slightly bigger & heavier, however, it enabled me to get shots I wouldn't have been able to get due to the rocking of the ship.

 

I can't comment on a comparison with other lenses, however, this one suits my purpose and provides good photos.

 

Good luck,

 

Rich B

While I never have purchased an extended warranty on any other product, I have always bought the Mack coverage for camera equipment. My experience has been that the equipment breaks down after 2-3 years, and no manufacturer or credit card warranty will cover for that long. Of course, so many people in these forums seem to buy new equipment every 1-2 years, so for them, it probably would be an unnecessary expense. I, on the other hand, would purchase new equipment only if there was some major technology change, not just the newest, shiniest model.

 

I have a Canon EOS Elan IIe previously serviced after 3 years of ownership and currently have a Canon G-1 in for work after 2 1/2 years. In the case of the G-1, the warranty cost me $69 for 5 years, less than 1/2 the cost of sending the unit to Canon once! $14 per year is pretty cheap insurance to me.

 

Just my 2 cents

 

Rich B

I was in Namibia, Botswana & Zimbabwe a couple of years ago in April, which is the beginning of their Fall, while you're going in October, which is the beginning of their Spring. Both seasons can have pretty bright sunlight during the day, and there is a lot of scenery to shoot.

 

While it is important to have fast film for wildlife shots, especially for your long lens (animals are usually not cooperative and don't pose next to the road) in some cases 400 may be too much. During the day, unless you hit some dreadful weather, 100 ISO should be fine for landscapes, even hand holding. In Zimbabwe, if you go to Victoria Falls, you also may want to use a slower film to blur the water.

 

Don't obsess over the decision. The important thing is that you will having an amazing experience, and that any of the films will get you good images. Your memories will be MORE vivid.

 

Have a great trip,

 

Rich B

I just returned from a trip to Europe and as always, carried my camera equipment and film on board with me and stored in overhead. No security problem, and the bag can be held under your seat if you're really paranoid. I'm more comfortable having the camera with me than in luggage where anyone can open the bag and help themselves. As was mentioned, NEVER put film in checked baggage. The X-Rays they use to look into those bags is too strong and will fog just about any film.

 

As far as getting a hand-check of your carry-on, its probably not going to happen, unless you're carrying ISO 1600 or above film. That said, I've gone through several airports on a single trip with multiple scans of carry-ons and never had a problem, even when carrying 400 ISO film.

 

Bottom line: bring all your camera stuff on board, don't worry and have a great time.

 

Rich B

I can't comment on the locale, having never been there, however, a couple of points, IMO should be addressed. You may want to look at a longer/better lens than the 28-90 kit lens. At minimum, the 28-105 or some even longer. Also, do you really need 400 ISO film, or would 200 suffice with less grain?

 

Lastly, regarding travel, do not let your equipment out of your site, and whatever you do, DON'T pack any film or equipment in your suitcase. Carry it with you on the plane. Many airports will no longer hand screen film, however, even if you have to pass it through the X-ray for carry-ons, the dose is far less than luggage is subject to.

 

Have a great time.

 

Rich B

It is difficult to answer since you don't give much information regarding the accessories you're considering. I can give you my experience with the G-1, and hopefully that will help.

 

IMO the most important accessory is the add-on grip from Lensmate. It does add a little size & weight, but not much when you consider how much more stable it makes the G-1 in your hand. I went from having to carefully balance in 2 hands to actually being able to hold the camera still using only 1 hand. It was about $45 new, so if you can find a used one, you can save some money.

 

While you're at it, I also recommend the Lensmate adapter which you'll need to mount accessory lenses & filters. It is aluminum and smaller than the Canon original

 

As far as lenses & filters, I use the TC 58 1.4 TC from Canon and have been happy with it. I would be careful about purchasing used filters on Ebay, as you have no guarantee they won't have bad scratches. In any case, stick to the better brands, Hoya, BW, etc.

 

Good luck

 

Rich B

As a former owner of a Pharmacy & photo enthusiast, I've had a lot of experience with Fuji developing here in NJ. I also believe the local plant handles Connecticut.

 

They have 2 levels of service, 1, the regular processing is ok, but is completely automated. The second is called Premium by Fuji, and is run on a Frontier machine in the mini-lab. That machine seems to be the choice of many particular photographers, and supposedly, it is hand inspected during the processing procedure. A little more costly, but not a product of mass production, so hopefully, the quality is a little better.

 

Personally, I generally use their regular processing, and while every once in a long while I get a bad roll, I've been pleased. If its a really important roll, I'd go for the Premium or else find someplace locally that uses the Frontier machine at a one-hour place.

 

Good luck

 

Rich B

You didn't say what kind of photography you usually do. If its anything outdoors involving hiking, you'll need a backpack to carry all this gear.

 

I use a Lowepro mini-trekker, in which I cram :Canon EOS Elan IIe with 28-105 lens; 20mm lens; 75-300 IS lens; 380 EX flash; Canon Powershot G-1 with charger; lensmate adapter with TC-58 and close-up set; Sony DV Camcorder; external light for camcorder; remotes for all; extra batteries; filters ; cleaning supplies ; up to a couple of dozen rolls of film ; manuals; and strapped to the bottom a tripod.

 

Obviously, on a hike, I only take what I'll use, otherwise I'd be permanently walking like the Hunchback of Notre Dame, but the point is, you can get a lot of stuff in this bag for travel & storage without it being a huge bag.

 

Check out the Lowepro & tamrac websites where you can find a lot of good ideas for bags to fit your style and equipment.

 

Good luck

There should not be any physical problems with either method, however, from everything I've read, formatting is the better solution. Erase tends to leave information on the card and over time, you lose capacity.

I may be all wet, however, the way I understand how the IS lenses work would creat problems when panning. If there is movement, the mechanism tries to compensate and may blur the shot and prevent focusing. I don't have experience with this & perhaps others can shed more light on it. On the other hand, if my logic is correct, you could always turn off the IS for the action shot, but have it available for some of the travel/landscape opportunities without a tripod.

 

Good luck

I have the Mini-Trekker with the same tripod & head as you're buying. My Mini-Trekker is older, & doesn't have the newer carry option. It just came with a couple of straps under the bag to carry the tripod crosswise. I got a couple of bungees and carry it along the side, and the extra height doesn't matter. Just adjust the tripod so that it doesn't hit you in the head. I've found the Mini-trekker to be a great, durable, comfortable bag, which you can cram a lot of stuff in & still protect your equipment.

 

Good luck

I did this cruise last year at the end of June. My major piece of advice would be to shoot 200 or 400 speed film, which probably will break a Velvia enthusiast's heart, however, you simply cannot get good shots at the slower speed. We forget that southeast Alaska is a rain forest, and on our trip, we didn't see the sun for 10 straight days. It was a constant gray, foggy, misty drizzle, and even on the occassional break, when we were ashore on hikes, the forests did not let much of the gray light penetrate. When you shoot from the ship it is usually moving (although slowly) & with the low light, you would need too long of an exposure, which would blur your landscapes.

 

I wouldn't worry about the IS lens. I used a 20mm & 28-105 regular and a 75-300 IS lens, & all worked fine. As mentioned, the ships move slowly & smoothly past anything worth shooting, so the jostling won't be too great. Also, a tripod would probably not be the easiest thing, as you must be moving around the deck to get a good vantage point. Make use of the deck rail to steady yourself & your shots or if you feel you must, bring along a monopod. Just make sure to check it in your luggage, so some overzealous security person won't try to confiscate it.

 

Since you're going to Glacier Bay, make sure you're out on deck at the stern early to get a great view as the ship swings around & you get the whole panorama. The blue color and the sound of the glaciers calving is incredible.

 

Hopefully, you'll luck out & have better weather than we did, but in any case, have a great trip!

 

Rich B

If you decide to go the route of the used SLR, just be careful of a couple of things. First, I wouldn't buy off an auction site. Many of these cameras are old, and the light seals may have rotted out, the minimal electronics may be shot, or there could be mechanical problems with them. Aas previously advised, your local shop is probably a better idea, as they may have already reconditioned the seals, and would stand behind the unit if a problem. The other factor is to make sure whatever you buy includes at least a good 50mm lens. On your limited budget, it doesn't pay to spend $120 for a great used camera, but then have to spend another $150 to put it into shape.

 

IMO, the safest answer is your original choice. You will get good, not great pictures, but it will fit your current budget and needs, and especially without a zoom, will teach you the importance of composition.

 

Good luck,

Rich B

I must disagree with some of the posts regarding the cheapest polarizers are the best.

Without starting an argument, since everyone's experience may be different, I have found that brand does make a difference. As some posters noted, some inferior filters may have an unwanted color cast. I have even seen some cheapos in which the manufacturer doesn't use quality components and the photo looks out of focus in places. Another factor is flare. The more glass surfaces the more likely you may get flare. When you get a zoom lens with multiple glass surfaces, and then a filter on top of it, in bright light, you may be asking for flare (which may or may not be a bad thing). To minimize this from happening, you need a multi-coated filter, just as your lens is probably multi-coated. IMO the Hoya or B & W make the best filters, but others may also be fine.

 

It just doesn't make sense to spend $200-$400 or more on a decent lens and then have a $20 piece of glass negate the engineering in that lens.

Good luck

Rich B