gerry297

I have the same printer, but use EZ Color by Monaco/X-rite which is a packaged bundle for $348at B&H. It has given me great results. The paper I use almost exclusively is Ilford smooth gloss, although occasionally I will use Hahnemule if I desire a rag / linen finish. I am very happy with printer's results.

Someone on photo.net recommended that I purchase a Nikon drawer / slide in 39mm

polarizer for my 300mm lens because the Nikon filter allows adjustment using the

knurled knob on top. Does anyone know if it fits the minolta lens?

A circular polarizer on the front of a minolta 300mm lense is way too

expensive. So the question is how do you rotate the polarizer if you place it

in the filer drawer? I'm not happy with the contrast I'm getting out of this

lens and thought a polarizer might help.

The real question in all of this Brian is... who are you trying to please through your photography? You should not get your validation through the eyes of others who can sometimes be a little cruel. The whole idea here is to get constructive criticism so you (and I) can improve our technique. Keep shooting, you will get better. 3's should not deter you from continuing. I use the forum alot to get advice and learn. If people don't say why they leave a 3 then it's a complete waste. Don't take it personally just keep on keepin on.

 

Gerry

Thanks to all those who offered their advice for the salvage of this single roll

of film. I ultimately allowed the film to dry in it's canister for about 3 weeks

and had it processed normally. The entire roll showed no signs of water damage

whatsoever. I will post a few of the pics later on. Thanks again.

 

Gerry

Don't miss the Italian Market in South Philly. Great stuff can be found there.

B & H has the kit with lens in stock now, the body minus lens is still not yet available.

Pro Color on Ranstead Street went out of business last year. Try Philadelphia Photographics at (215) 625-9678 on Arch Street. I know they do E-6 35mm. You'll have to call about 120.

I'm trying to weigh all my options as the film has some irreplacable pics on it. I can have the film processed by my lab or I can pre-wash the film in distilled water and process it myself or I can pre-wash the film, dry in the dark and have the lab process. I'm just trying to make sure I have all the necessary info/options to make a sound decision, which still does not guarantee that the images won't be tainted. I appreciate all the input and advice from everyone. I will keep you posted as to the final outcome.

So I was able to get the velvia out of my camera before I shipped it out for

repairs. There was evidence on the leader that the film was wet, maybe not

saturated but wet nonetheless. It has been suggested that I cleanse the film in

distilled water, dry then process. I could do that, need some sound advice. I

could also just submit it for developing as it seems to be dry. I manually

loaded it back into the canister in a changing bag, no water was evident. Any

help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Gerry

Does anyone know if the 3021 can be converted to the pro version with the

horizontal arm. I would like to do macro work and the 3021 does not quite have

the flexability to get close enough. Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

Gerry

The film seemed relatively dry as I manually rewound it back into the canister in a changing bag. No part of the film stuck together, so I'm hopeful it can be salvaged.

I have retreived a roll of velvia from my camera which took a quick dip in the

lake. I would like to try and process the film myself as I don't want to

contaminate my labs chemistry. What chemistry/kit would you recommend for this

process. I have never developed color film only b&w. Any help would be

appreciated. Thanks.

 

Gerry

Yes, the rewind button is an electronic switch which is apparently non-functional at this point, so nothing happens when you press it.

Does anyone know how to release the take-up spool for manual film removal.

Malcolm Denton was kind enough to explain how to manually open the camera. The

take-up spool is still engaged (in gear). there has to be a way to put it in

neutral so the film can be pulled from it. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Gerry

Went wilderness camping this past week, got some great shots of moose and other

critters both flora and fauna. Unfortunately my 7 took a dip in the lake and

will have to go into the shop. It was not completely soaked just enough to shut

down the microprocessor. My problem is that some critical shots are on the roll

still in the camera, when it happened the camera started rewinding. I can get

the diplay that says its completed (film rewind symbol), but it will not open. I

would like to know if there is a manual way to override and open it. I would

like to perform this operation in a changing bag so as to make certain the film

has been rewound. I don't want to send it off to Sony with the film still in it,

since the chances of recovery are slim. Any help or suggestions would be

appreciated. Thanks.

Did you use a lead film bag? Some airports in foreign countries utilize older x-ray equipment, which is more apt to cause the problems you are experiencing. Kodak has a page on their website which shows examples of x-ray damage. When traveling I always ask (respectfully) for a visual inspection. In the US they have to comply by law, however once you leave the US they basically can do whatever they want. So always ask for a visual, and have a film bag (just in case). US Security always tries to pull the "it won't hurt your film if it's below 800 speed", but why take a chance. These security people are not experts on x-ray equipment or camera film.

About 35 minutes ne of Vegas is a gem of a location call the "Valley of Fire" which a local photo shop turned me on to. Bright red rocks jumping out of the ground with a mono toned desert as a backdrop. I go there every time I visit Vegas. Some of my best shots ever are from there. It's so close to Vegas it would be a shame to miss it. The other locations you mention are spectacular but a considerable driving distance with the exception of Zion, Bryce and the Grand Canyon. Arches is way too far to do in your allotted time frame. Page AZ offers the Slot Canyons, Horseshoe Bend, The Wave (permits necessary) Grand Staircase and Lake Powell, again these are a considerable distance. If you have already been to the Grand Canyon, stick with Valley of Fire, Bryce and Zion. If you have never visited the Grand Canyon, you should.

Color Reflections on Green Street. I've been using them for years. However they only do C-41, they stopped E-6 about 2 years ago.

Sorry let me clarify. I mean a dual filter not 2 separate filters like the one Alan describes (Hoya ultra). I would not have a need to stack 2 filters, especially on a wide angle lens.

I am considering an upgrade to a better polarizer. Should I consider the UV CPL

combo or forget the UV? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?

I have a MD W.Rokkor-X 20mm lens which is almost like new. Can someone

help me identify some of the markings. What does the W stand for and

is the X of any significance? The serial # is 1201499 probably made in

1999. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

The new technology is capable of capturing full resolution images at

speeds of up to 60 frames per second.

http://www.ephotozine.com/news/fullnews.cfm?NewsID=2924

R1800 or R2400 This is the question?

Hi Ralph, I have the maxxum autofocus version, which causes significant vigneting when used with the hood. Unfortunately I lost some great shots in the valley of fire last year. I typically do not use a shade on my wides anymore, but alway pay attention to any potential trouble spots for flare. I shield the lens with a small piece of cardboard or my hand. You don't need the hood. The shots I lost were otherwise exceptional. Good luck.