custom film holders for fl
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Posts posted by custom film holders for fl
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<p>The extra large set of controls that Vuescan has (e.g. locking base color) might give you the tools you need to do the job. Vuescan has a free trial so you can download and experiment with it before buying to see if you can acquire the results you want.</p>
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<p>Just to be clear, that profile is for an Epson 3800.</p>
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<p>I created one with my i1 Pro for a box of Kirkland made in Mexico. This box of paper has been around for a few years so I don't know if the paper formulation is the same as what you would get in a box bought at Costco today but you might as well give it a test. Send me your email address via private message and I will email it to you.</p>
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<p>What color space is your file? Are you using a custom profile for your printer? At what luminance level did you calibrate your montior? How far off are your prints? Prints will never match a monitor exactly since a monitor is backlit and a print is not.<br>
<img id="smallDivTip" src="chrome://dictionarytip/skin/dtipIconHover.png" alt="" /></p>
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<p>You mentioned Canada. In case you are actually up there, Bob Carnie at Elevator in Toronto is building quite a good reputation: http://www.elevatordigital.ca/<br>
<br />Doug</p>
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<p>You might go to the compassmicro.com website and look around for parts for your scanner. When you find parts, you will often find links to exploded diagrams. That should help you figure out how to get inside your scanner. For other scanner users, I have put up some dismantling tips for the Vxx line of consumer scanners here:<br>
http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/dismantling.html</p>
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<p>If a 1680 is in good working condition and calibration, the final true optical resolution (not manufacturer's claim) of the 1680's scans will probably at least equal the V5xx and V6xx. The dmax should be better to a noticeable degree. LED is nice for faster warm up but in consumer scanners I would be really surprised to see a well executed test that showed the scanned images were significantly better. If a 1680 is working well (it might need a cleaning under the glass by now at the least), I would really be surprised if the Canon 9000 produced a better scan - even with one of my holders. The 1680's optics are in a different class. It all comes down to the performance/condition of your particular 1680.<br>
<br />Given your budget of $500, I would look at a refurb'd V700 from the clearance center at the online Epson store. The availability fluctutates daily but I have seen them there in the $400 range. Manage your expectations though and don't be surprised if you don't see a huge gain over your 1680. Watching your local CraigsList could yield an even better deal but there is always a chance you get sold a dud.</p>
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<p>>>Luminance: 120<<<br>
I think some points of his article are ready for updating. Many of today's better quality LCD monitors can, and need to, be calibrated at a much lower luminance level than 120. I am running my NEC at 90 and it calibrates just fine. Did you try to calibrate lower than 120 and have an error? If you haven't tried calibrating lower, that is where I would start. Try 100.</p>
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<p>First, in the software have you change the "thumbnail cropping area" slider from small to midway or large (you did switch the format size parameter in the software configuration box to your particular format though, right?). You will find many references to the poor auto cropping problem on the internet. Many people never realize that they are missing part of their image(s) until they get an obvious error like the one you experienced. If they did a careful comparison of most scans though, they would probably be surprised to find how many of their images on film are overly cropped or mis-cropped by the software's auto-cropping. Auto-cropping is nothing more than a "guess" based on an algorithm and it is often fooled.<br>
Most people I know just set a batch scan of manual crops. It is easy to set up and you know it will be accurate. In the end, this actually takes less time because you don't have to spend time doing comparisons of scans to film and then have to do the inevitable rescans. Here is a page of tips I put up to help people learn about creating manual batch scans with the EpsonScan software:<br>
Doug</p>
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<p>Yes, dust can/will eventually get on the underside of any scanner. Some runs of new scanners have poor quality control and thus come with dust under the glass when you take it out of the box. Scanners are not sealed tight so air moves in and out and carries dust inside the shell of the scanner. I think it is a tradeoff though. If it was completely sealed the fogging from the out-gassing of the plastic would be even worse.</p>
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<p>Ok, just to emphasize that it is real important you have the calibration gap toward the top of the scanner bed (hinge end) and that you keep the side of the film holder lined up straight with the top and side of the bed of the scanner<br>
Here are more detailed instructions on manual cropping:<br>
http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/batchscanning.html<br>
Also, auto calibration seems to work best when you have your first frame of your film lined up at the top of the film channel. Some people just stick the film anywhere in the film channel (e.g. the middle so there is a large blank space on either side of the film) but that blank space can throw the software's "guess" off a bit.<br>
Email me directly if you continue to have issues. Thanks.</p>
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<p>Simple stuff to start - Do you have the white insert removed from the lid of the scanner? Do you have the film holder correctly placed on the scanner and not riding up on the sides or turned 180 degrees wrong? Are you sure you are keeping the calibration gap/cutout at the top of the holder completely clear (no excess film flowing over, etc.) so that the scanner can calibrate correctly? Have you gone into Professional Mode, unchecked thumbnail and then manually drawn the cropping marquee to just the area you want scanned?</p>
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<p>In terms of a small, unobtrusive, camera that produces quality images that often blow away much larger cameras, the RX100 II (sorry about the S before), the RX is very much like/in the spirit of the XAs I own.</p>
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<p>New cameras seem to be announced daily but I would look at a Sony RX100s right now if I was looking for a digital replacement to an XA.</p>
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<p>Are you talking about the scanning head returning to the starting position after a scan is finished? There is also a bit of a changeover if you have finished making a scan using ICE but that usually isn't 10 seconds long.<br>
Doug</p>
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<p>Go in to your software and set it so that you can manually set the crop settings.</p>
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<p>I am unclear from your post but your calibration target film for the profile you are applying is not the same type of film as the film your are scanning, correct? If true, that would be one issue.</p>
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<p>Are you using/applying the specific icc printing profile for that paper and its surface? Have you done a head alignment check (different from a nozzle check)? Epson have this but I don't know about Canons.</p>
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<p>The target is 3 mm but that is often not the true best suspension height for a particular scanner' optics and why film holder height variability is beneficial.<br>
Doug</p>
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<p>There was a similar discussion at the Epson Prosumer Scanner Group at Yahoo groups so you might want to do a search of the archives:<br>
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Epson_Scanners/messages</p>
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<p>There is a Nikon 8000/9000 user's group on Yahoo groups. You will get lots of good advice if you post there. Also, there is an extensive archive there for research.</p>
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<p>Speaking of sRGB and Adobe RGB coverage, you can get the wider gamut coverage in your phone if you want:<br /> http://www.phonearena.com/news/UL-certifies-the-4.99-FHD-display-on-the-Samsung-Galaxy-S4_id43874<br /> Doug</p>
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<p>If you ever plan to scan these and you have a choice of thicknesses that your projector can accept, the thickness of the mount should be matched so that it suspends the film at the correct height off the scanner bed to put it in the optimum optical film focus plane.</p>
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<p>Looks like the dust and scratches function is trying to correct a problem that isn't there? Common problem. Turn the FARE as well as the software based dust and correction function off and rescan. How do they look now?</p>
epson 2400 leaving ink marks and paper shifts during printing
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted