andy_buck1

I'm going to be making very large prints from negatives shot in a swing lens camera. I couldn't do either of those with a pinhole, not an end up with a sharp print. But thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks to all. Conrad, I need both a neutral density filter and slower film, as I am trying to shoot 2 second exposures on near sunny days. I had thought about XP2, so will try it and FP4. I'm nervous about having a big lab process my film, as opposed to it being hand developed. process by Phil, as opposed to it being hand developed.

I have shot TriX400 for decades and love it. But I need a slower film at the moment. Which of these two does anybody think is closest to TriX 400 in terms of smoothness of tonalities?

PMK-Pyro, or any one of the other popular Pyro developers, is not difficult to do your self. Wonder about the various forums & you will garner a wealth of info about this type of developing. Because it is not a main stream b/w developer, most labs shy aware from keeping the chemicals in house. Aloha from the Mainland, Bill

It is difficult if you're in a wheelchair and your disability limits your dexterity. That's why I'm looking for lab for individual.

Does anyone know of someone who's doing that? I have some 120 film that could use it.

 

Thanks.

Is there any quick and/or easy method to doing this? Or is the film lost, so to speak. A friend (really, not me!) flew too many times without protecting the film in his suitcase or getting it passed via carry-on.

 

Thanks

Yep, it does.

 

Does the Fuji GA645Zi have a manual cable release?

 

A manual is available for it at the Free camera instruction manuals, camera instructions, free film camera user guide, camera manual, camera instruction manuals, Canon camera manual, Nikon camera manual, Ricoh camera manuals, Sears Camera Manuals, camera instruction manual, replacement cam site.

Is it possible to use a cable release, or any kind of remote shutter trigger, with this camera? From the pictures I see online, it looks like the shutter button is smooth with no threaded insert in the middle.

 

Does anybody have any experience with doing this?

I figured I was safe to use as I usually do, i.e. two stops over and 30% less development. However, just to be safe, and since I don't have time to test (I'm shooting Saturday) I will pull some out of the freezer and use it. I will shoot a test role with the other at the same time and develop all the same way.

 

Thanks very much for the quick replies!

I have a number of rolls of 120 Tri-X dated 6/13 that was frozen up until two years ago. It has been refrigerated since then. Is it okay? Should I adjust the exposure and/or development? Do you think it would be fogged at all?

 

Thanks,

Andy

<p>The subject says it all. Does anybody have any suggestions? Apparently Hahnemule doesn't make paper above 44".</p>

<p> Thanks. I will check on monoprice.com.</p>

<p>Andy</p>

<p>Is that possible? It looks like I need a female mini display port to HDMI adapter but I'm having a hard time finding one of those online. Any comments or suggestions? Thanks! </p>

<p>Lots of good ideas. I think I will try the foil tape first.</p>

<p>Thanks to all.</p>

<p>I believe I have found the light leak because after applying several layers of electrician's tape where the light seems to be coming from after doing some analysis on the timing of it, etc., the leak is much slower. There used to be black masking tape made for photography that was completely opaque, but doesn't seem to be made anymore. Is it?</p>

<p>Have you used the black neoprene glue or the liquid electrical tape for light blocking with success?</p>

<p>I have a Horseman 612 roll film back that has developed a slight light leak. I believe I have located the leak but several layers of black electrician's tape have not completely solved the problem. What is the best, i.e. complete, light blocking material that is easy to use?</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Andy</p>

<p> I have always been hesitant to use lens adapters but given what David said about the distance from sensor to lens mount makes it obvious that it's quite safe to do with this camera (actually, either the nex7 or a7). I've always been intrigued by the contax cameras because of the Zeiss lenses, but not actually to the point of wanting to go back to 35mm. But given that I have the choice of either those lenses or the Leica lenses on a digital camera of this quality – and compactness as compared to something like a D800 or 5D – makes this seem like a no-brainer!</p>

<p>Thanks for all the input and enlightenment!</p>

<p>Andy</p>

<p>I kind of dove into this subject, not as a neophyte, but as someone long distanced from 35mm. I've been shooting 120 exclusively for about 40 years (Certainly gives away my age!). I like the fact that the Sony has a Zeiss lens (35mm) for that camera. My 2-1/4 camera uses just Zeiss lenses (SL66) which I've made 20x enlargements from and have the, entirely justified, "reverence" for those lenses. I will look to see what I can find in the FE type E-mount lenses. Maybe I can find a "phenomenal" 28 or 35… Any suggestions?</p>

<p>I also started wondering after I posted the message if maybe it was possible to control the focus internally, so to speak.</p>

<p>Andy</p>

<p>There is a AF/MF switch on the back of this camera (both versions). However, I don't see a manual focus lens available for it, at least not on B&H. Is there one available? I'm looking for a fixed focal length, 35mm or slightly less, e.g. 28mm. Is it possible to mount non-contemporary lenses on this camera?</p>

<p>Andy</p>

<p>I won't be either. I bought a viewer about the same time as I bought the focuser. I did not notice it right away because I didn't use it for a while, but it too has a crack in the front plastic. Luckily, it does not affect its functionality. Mine was designed for 612 on 120 film. Seems like they have little or no quality control. Too bad. They make some interesting products, interesting looking, at least. </p>

<p>Dirk,</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Andy</p>

<p>Obviously, 74 CHF is a whole lot more than the cost of one roll of film! I will ask my local lab. They'll probably get back to me in an hour or so.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Andy</p>

<p>I did know that because I looked it up before I posted my question. My question was "what the length of the paper backing is after the end of the film". In case you didn't know what I mean, I'll rephrase it: how much paper is there in inches from the end of the film to the end of the paper before it comes just connected from the spool?</p>

<p>Does anybody know what the length of the paper backing is after the end of the film with TX400? I could just unroll a roll but I'd prefer not to waste one. It's getting quite expense!<br>

If you don't know, please don't guess. I'm looking for some first-hand experience.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>I have had this holder for many years and have never had a problem until now. It has a very slight light leak that is coming from the bottom across the film as it winds around the roller on the take up side. I measured where the streak is in relationship to the end of the previous frame. It is a thin straight streak that starts on the bottom side of the film and fades out before the other side.</p>

<p>When I say slight, I really mean it: if the film sits in place for half a minute to a minute there is no evidence of the leak. It only happens when the film has been sitting in one position outdoors for 5 min. or more.</p>

<p>There are two tiny little holes on the bottom side, i.e. below the winder, that may be the source of the problem. One of them looks empty, but I can't tell what is supposed to be in it. I put four layers of black electrical tape over those holes, but I haven't taken a test roll to the lab yet. If that's not it, I can't imagine what else it might be. There doesn't seem to be any place or light to come in. All of the light trap grooves and ridges are solidly intact.</p>

<p>Has anybody ever had this problem? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated, of course!</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>