rob_klugman

Actually, that was part of my original post. If a scanner can scan 35mm negs, does it follow that it will scan 120 negs? The light source is large enough for the negs. Thanks for the responses regarding using an aftermarket carrier or a homemade one, I never would have thought of that.

I posted a few days ago that I received a Mamiya 645. I am begining

to get the hang of it. Question - I have been scanning my 35mm negs

with an Epson 2400 Photo with its supplied negative carrier. My

scanner does not have a carrier for 120 negs. Can I lay them flat

between the glass and light source? And before anyone tells me that

a flatbed scanner is no good (as compared to a neg scanner), I am

not in the market for a negative scanner. Thanks.

Thanks for all the great advice. FYI- I was also given an 80mm 2.8f lens and a viewfinder with some kind of metering, have to get batteries for it. How is the quality of the meters, I assume it is not quite matrix or spot. I'm guessing it is closer to my original Nikon F. Once I got the hang of its metering, it was fine. I rely on my Nikon n90s metering which I never have a problem with now.

Hi all,

 

I was just given a m645. I am not familiar with this camera and was

hoping someone may be able to direct me to an online manual. I have

had no luck with google. Thanks.

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thanks belle!

First upload, comments appreciated<div></div>

Thanks all. I was able to do it. I feel like I have to relearn so much now in order to go digital.

Hi all,

 

Digital imaging is fairly new to me. I have just started scanning

some negatives into my computer and have used Photoshop Elements to

edit them. I have a picture which is a 40 meg file which I would

like to email to a friend for critique. How do I make a copy of the

file but reduce its size to a managable size for email (50k?)?

Thanks everyone for their responses. Dave, I think that I will be going with a 50mm. That article was excellent. Thanks again.

A few weeks ago I had twins. Like any proud father I have been

taking many pictures. I am using a Nikon n90s and 28-80mm lens. I

am finding that I need to get in closer than I am able to because of

the focus limitations of the lens. I was thinking that a macro lens

may help with this problem.

 

Question 1: Is a macro the right solution?

Question 2: If so, a local camera store has two lenses that I would

be interested in. (a) a sigma 180 macro, and (b) a sigma 50 macro.

both are used and manual focus and selling for around $100 each.

Bear in mind that cost is a major factor, that is why I am looking

at used and manual focus. All thoughts will be much appreciated.

I took a fantastaic portrait lighting course at the New School in NYC with Bobbi Lane. She also teaches at the Maine School and Santa Fe, among others. I don;t know her website address, but a google search should bring you to her site.

What should I rate this film at?

I think it has potential, although it is derivative. Try aligning the lens so that it sits where your left eye is, rather than having it below the eye (in order that it gives the surreal appearance of being your left eye). Also expirament with moving your hand so that it is not so prominent in the photo.

Why don't you stop worrying about the "right" lens and just start shooting. If you don't like the results and think it is a failure of the lens, then replace it. I've seen so many comments on this board regarding obtaining the best lens available. unless you are planning large enlargements, I doubt you will see much difference. Spend your money on film instead.

I'm trying to gain more experiance with portrature and am having a

tough time trying to find willing models. While friends are willing

to pose, I find it difficult and am really looking for people that

want to pose. Any suggestions on where I could find willing models.

Also, this would be non-paying, strictly tfp.

Well I guess I was more curious with fill flash (I'm still a novice with flash). How does the camera and flash know that I am want fill flash for the subject and not try to expose correctly for the entire frame?

Hi all,

 

I just starting using an n90s. I have a question about the green

flash reccomendation light. I have yet to figure under what

circumstances it advises you to use flash. At first I thought it was

merely the shutter speed (if too slow). Is it based on the ev

regardless of what the proper exposure is? I imagine that I am not

explaining this well, but hopefully someone understands this question

and will be able to explain it in plain english. Thanks.

I just bought an n90s with an MF-26 back off of ebay. Both of which are in excellent condition for $350. Either I got real lucky, or that is the going price. After owning it for one week and shooting 4 rolls through it I must say that I love it. I was shooting an n70 before this and an F before the n70.

 

I think that its AF is fast and accurate. What I love most about it is its interface. Perhaps using the n70 for 5 years with its confusing interface has made me really appreciate a simple and intituive layout.

Hi all,

 

Just got a used n90s with MF-26. The camera is in great condition,

however, the databack seems to have a problem. I've put fresh new

batteries in it and the display on the screen is garbled and will

not work. Does anyone know if there is a way to reset the databack

(sort of like resetting my palm pilot after it freezes). The guy I

bought it from I don't beleive scammed me, he told me it was working

when he sent it out. thanks.

Hi all,

 

Hopefully this question has not been asked already. When I started

getting serious about shooting about ten years ago, I was shooting

with a Nikon F. While I really enjoyed the camera, it had some

drawbacks (ie. poor metering, heavy, etc). So after using it for

five years, I decided it was time for a new camera. While I thought

of getting the n90s at the time, B&H steered me to the n70. While it

did save me much money and is a quite capable camera, the interface

sucks (but I'm sure everyone knows that). I have used n90s in the

past and have really liked them. They feel good in my hands and the

interface is a whole lot better.

 

So I've decided to get a new camera. It is between the n90s and the

f100. One of my past instructors recommended the f100. Her thought

is that if you are getting a new camera, you should get the

manufacturer's newest technology. However, the n90s, from what I can

tell is not that far off from the f100, and it is much cheaper on the

used market, especially ebay.

 

I realize this may be a bit long winded, however, I'm leaning towards

the n90s, is there any reason, I should just go for it and get the

f100? By the way,I am a serious amatuer, shoot about 5-10 rolls a

month, mostly b&w and develop my own stuff. Shoot landscapes and

portraits.

 

Thanks.

I too have experianced problems with B&H (nothing too big, but enough to make me look around). I have been using Adorama for the past six months and am pleased. So far no complaints.

I have been looking around to replace by stainlees steel tanks

because I find them to be somewhat difficult to load (I am never

completly confident that it is loaded properly, although it is). I

have been told that plastic tanks like the JOBO system are easier and

give better indication that they have been loaded properly. Is this

true? If so, what brand would be recommended? BTW, I develop 35mm

film.

I was shooting in a studio with an N70. I took some close up shots

of my subject trying to get only his face in the shot. I was quite

careful to make sure that his ears were in the shot and left some

additional white background between his ears and the edge of the

frame. However, when I got the contact sheet back, I discovered that

a small part of the ears were cut off.

 

Now, I am fairly certain that I had the entire ears in the frame. Is

it possible that it is my camera, or is it defeintly my failure to

properly frame the picture.