gone nomad

Printing onto ilfochrome paper. Scan and print with a digital printer i.e. lightjet.

 

Good luck with your tachihara. 4x5's alot of fun.

I just got a Jobo ATL 2 and I'm still trying to figure out how to

program it. Does anyone have a manual for it? I'd be happy to pay

the postage or whatever. A PDF version would also work.

 

I've emailed Jobo and never heard back. They have other Jobo manuals

but not for the ATL 2.

Jorge,

 

Thank you for the visual image. Ever been to joecartoon.com???

 

I agree with Jorge. The discussion of digital vs. analog has been beaten to death here. I personally don't want to sit behind a computer either. When I come home the laptop stays at school. Working in the darkroom is what I find to be enjoyable. Thus, that's where I spend my time.

 

If you're not experienced with darkroom work, I suggest that a local community college course might be a good choice. This would let you experience both options before you part with you hard earned money.

I am thinking that a 305mm image circle will be fine. I usually shoot landscapes. The typical shot involves a foreground and a distant background. I think with rear tilts I will be fine. Furthermore, I punch many of my negatives for pin registration. I loose a bit of the negative on opposite corners when I do this. Thus, I don't think that the 305mm image circle will be a problem for my images. Good thing I'm not much of an Architectural Photographer.

I've found a 180mm Fujinon W lens for sale that is claimed to cover

8x10. I'd love a lens in this focal length. Does anyone have

experience with this lens on an 8x10? I cannot seem to find any

information about the actual image circle size. Everything I find is

for the newer 180mm CM-W which has a smaller image circle. How

limited am I with movements etc?

I often carry readyloads if I'm interested in saving weight. On a long day hike they save several pounds. They lack of emulsions is not very frustrating since I mostly shoot TMax 100. The newest readyload holder also work with quickloads. The quickload holder won't take readyloads though. The Polaroid holder takes everything; however, the film flatness issue does rear its head. The polaroid holder apparently lacks a spring loaded back plate.

 

When I'm out photographic near the car I use regular film holders or I'm using my 8x10. I'd love it if someone came out with 8x10 readyloads!!!

On a large format camera, the limiting factor is typically the maximum bellows extension. Most large format Macro photographers that I've met (not very many) use a short focal length lens. I know a guy that uses a 60mm lens on his 8x10. However, this lens is a macro only lens. At anything less than 3x life size, the image circle is not large enough to cover.

 

If you're serious about macro than you need to be looking for a lens such as a Zeiss luminar. SK Grimes can put one in a copal shutter for you.

Maybe he's gained some weight and now exceeds the maximum load.

I'm back from Utah and just developed my film. I'm very impressed with the Badger M2. It's lightweight and simple. I have no idea about the infrared bellows; however, the guys at Badger are great. I would not hesitate to recommend the M2. It's a great addition to my 8x10 for hiking any distance from the car.

You mean I can't sit on my tripod??????????

Brad,

 

Often the lens comes without a lens board. It never fails that the lens you want comes mounted on a lens board that doesn't fit your camera.

 

To add to the above post, faster lenses also will use a larger shutter. When you're looking for a lens you end up choosing between smaller but slow; or, large (heavy) but faster. I have an f5.6 lens which is great; however, when I have to hike any distance I take my smaller f9 nikon lens.

 

Good luck with your plunge into large format. I don't even own a roll film camera at the moment.

The Canham is a really nice camera; however, IMHO it is a pain to fold. However, it has the advantage of using just about every lens you would ever want without changing bellows.

 

I'm going to disagree with the idea of choosing the tripod first. They really should be purchased together. For 4x5 I use a toho fc45 At three pounds all I need is a Gitzo 1228 CF tripod. Anything more would be silly. I used to use a Wista 45dx that weighed three pounds. It also worked great with the 1228.

 

Depending upon the camera, your current MF tripod will likely be fine. Many MF cameras are heavier than LF cameras.

 

Since you are planning to backpack, I suggest that you look really close at camera weight. A good backpackable 4x5 camera starts in the 3-4 pound range. Also keep an eye out for bellows length. For landscape use a wide range of lenses are often desired. Many field cameras are limited on both the wide and long side of things. for example, many wisner cameras need a bag bellows for 90mm. Other field cameras can barely handle a 300mm lens.

 

Some cameras that you might want to look for.

 

Wista 45dx 65mm to 300mm(barely) at 3.5 pounds

Tachihara 4x5

Ebony RW45 65mm to 300mm at 3.5 pounds. Get it with the universal bellows

Toho fc45 65 to 300mm at 3 pounds - A finicky monorail - see www.thalmann.com/largeformat

Canham DLC 58mm to 450mm at 4.5 pounds

 

 

Most cameras can accept a roll film holder without much trouble. Graflok backs seem to only come on heavier cameras. The exception to this is the wista. it was available with a graflock bacl (45dx III). Many spring back will open wide enough to take a roll film holder. The regular wista and the toho will.

You should also keep your eyes peels for a fujinon A 240mm f9. It's an absolutely wonderful little lens. You can't go wrong with the Nikon M; however, they're a bit rare on the used market.

 

Why do you want a 120mm when you've got a 135mm?

I'll also vote a yes on this. I regularuly shoot tmax 100 through my readyload holders. However, I often take some velvia quickloads with me when I go out. Never had a single problem.

 

I've got the latest version of the readyload holder. I don't think quickloads are as compatible with any of the earlier versions of the readyload holder.

I ordered my camera today!! It's coming along with five lens boards. As soon as it arrives I'm headed off to Utah. I'll post my thoughts when I return.

Don't forget the granview

 

http://www.granview.com

The arca swiss field is a wonderful camera. Since you're considering it, you might also take a look at the TOYO VX125. It's a very similar camera.

I spoke with Jeff at Badger Graphic today. Apparently they are identical for our purposes. Everything is interchangeable. Currently, Badger has a bunch in stock. I'll be ordering one this coming Friday. I'll let you know what I think when I get it. Jeff seemed to think that the ground glass was nicer on the Badger version.

Since you're coming from MF land, you are likely familiar with spotmeters, filter factors, and the like. Thus, a book focusing on the movements of the view camera is best. Dykinga's book is good. So is Simmon's view camera book. When I first got my first view camera, I spent a lot of time in my living room focusing and exploring. This was probably the best learning tool.

Ansel's "The Negative" is likely the best place to start. Les McLean's book is well written; however, I prefer to use a densitometer. Thus, Adam's book is better for me. Davis's "Beyond the Zone System" is outstanding. It goes beyond Adam's book.

 

Knowing what paper you plan to print on is also very important. Some papers, e.g. AZO, require higher densities than VC papers.

 

Thus, it stands to reason that you first want to know your papers (and light source). Then, you can establish the necessary densities. From here you can establish the correct speed and developing times.

I have always operated with the assumption that any developing time from kodak is a work of fiction. Determining the proper iso speed and developing time is quite easy. Thus, I cannot understand why so many people do not take the time to test their film.

The jobo is awesome with an expert drum. I have the 4x5 expert drum and am saving up for the 8x10.

Has anyone compared the Toho and the M-2 side by side? Are they identical? How's the quality?

Bryan,

 

I am in the process of planning a trip around the world. My dream has been to travel the world with my 4x5 camera. My PhD is done in May 2005. I'm planning on 14 months abroad. I figure that I'll use readyloads exclusively.

The legend is the nicer of the two. The easiest way to tell them apart is by the rail. The rail on the SC is square. The rail on the legend has groves along the sides. Every legend I've ever seen had nicer movements. My 8x10 legend has base and axis tilts and geared rise. I beleive that both take the same lens boards, backs, and possibly bellows.