victor4

Interesting... in a previous thread I suggested that perhaps PhaseOne would be picking up the tab for production of the Contax 645. The referred .pdf in the above noted link starts out ... "Dear PhaseOne Reseller..."

For all practical purposes there is no difference between the 501 and the 503. TTL and a motor drive? I suspect most do not use either most of the time, but they are there when one wants them. So why have two cameras.

 

Students would be nuts to not take advantage of the dramatically lower prices on quality used gear. Hasselblad can still benefit when students buy used. They get into the system and eventually will buy something new, maybe.

 

It is very doubtful we shall ever see full frame square digital backs. Q.G. is correct in that the price on existing backs needs to drop and soon. The 'somewhat competing' D1s and D2x are so much cheaper they surely are taking a substantial bite out of the MF market. Cheaper plus they include bells and whistles up the wazoo.

 

It is possible that MF digital backs have a longer support life than the DSLR MF wannabees. ie: when it breaks it is still economically viable to repair rather than replace. This means that there will be a gradually growing supply of good used stock available as newer better backs come to market. If true this could help the MF Mfg.'s stay in business.

 

Even if Hasselblad were to go out of business I suspect film will still be available for years to come. And because of their overall quality and the fact there are so many out there good Hasselblads will also continue to be available, though used.

Hmmm...

 

PhaseOne is/was giving away a Contax with purchase of a digital back. Wonder if Kyocera will produce the Contax for PhaseOne. Hasselblad has Imacon. Mamiya's attempting to produce their own digital baby as well as their association with Leaf. Sinar's rumored to be coming up with MF lense system presumably for their do it all with one body. They also just recently purchased Jenoptiks backs (so I heard). So maybe PhaseOne will be picking up the tab for Contax?

 

Never can tell...

http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3139350-lg.jpg

Lately they seem to be doing a very very good job of increasing sales, for Canon. :-)

Already did. He had e-mailed a pic of himself and his gf and said thanks for all the help. But that was on 12-1-04. He had started a couple of other threads re: the same basic question which were apparently deleted for some unknown reason. He was going to post the pic "so everyone could see who was causing all the trouble".

Just over a year ago (January 2004) the infamous Kornelius J.

Fleischer wrote, among other things, the following:

 

"...At Zeiss, we currently work on an extremely impressive new lens

for the Hasselblad 6 x 6 system. It will take us a while, so I do not

promise it for this year's photokina..."

 

With that in mind what do you all think? Any predictions? Wild

guesses? Fanciful wishes?

 

It's only two more weeks, but not yet too late to tend to the rumor

mill...:-)

Kevin? Whose Kevin?

 

Sorry Ken, its too early guess I can't get the old eyes open yet.

 

vic...:-)

Kevin, please keep us posted. Thanks!

Just wanted to share this with someone. It's just too weird. On the

big auction site there was a "rear cover multi control" which sold

for US$33.00. ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?

ViewItem&category=3351&item=3870394553&rd=1 )

 

Just happened to spot the item at $15 and followed it just to see

what would happen. B&H has the same thing brand new for $14.00. Or am

I missing something? Is the auctioned one special somehow, maybe

scratches in all the right places?

 

kinda makes one wonder... vic :)

"...Psss... for all you film guys and gals, if you look at the bottom of this webpage, it will tell you something..."

 

 

Well ok, but you know what happens when a candle starts to flicker? It soon goes out. :-)

This is probably a really dumb question, but I'm willing to embarrass

myself so will ask it anyhow.

 

I have an old Epson 2450 with original software. Is there any way to

get better quality scans by somehow sandwiching the film between two

sheets of glass along with an oil, sort of simulating a drum scan

process?

 

The idea would be to have a nice flat scan as well as eliminate

Newton rings and dust.

 

vic... :)

Thanks a lot guys, I was enjoying this hobby... Always thought the environmental damage was caused by processing chemistry poured down the drain.

 

Never really did 'love' film. It's just something to use. Though I really do like the grain in Ilfords 3200.

 

Film is pretty much a pain in the ass. Buy it, stock it, carry it, load it, shoot it, process it, print it, tear it up, reprint it...,<repeat ad infinitum>.

 

Love it, no. But it's what I use.

RIT fabric dye, can be used for backdrops. :-)

http://www.westcoastimaging.com/

This may well not even be possible but...

 

Just thought it might be kind of neat to be able to read those

threads with the highest response rates. Would/could be a clue as to

what was important to folks at different times in the past. At the

very least would be interesting just to know.

 

By year, by forum, or just the top 10 or 20 of all time.

 

Thanks for your time, vic... :)

Has anyone made the switch? From optical to digital black and white

printing?

 

I have been doing my own optical printing. Was all set to buy a

traditional darkroom set-up but realized it may be time to print

digitally.

 

Optically I'm not that good, though am capable of split filter

printing. My photos are not really that good either, thus do not

require the best treatment, yet do not want a trashy result.

 

How good a result can the Epson 4000 or 2200 actually produce,

compared to a traditional print? With or without a RIP. Metamerism

would be a concern. I would want to print on a subtle mat finish. A

rag or canvas type finish would also be cool.

 

I am very familiar with PS, though still use rev. 5.5. (hey, its

better than aldus photostyler)

 

I would consider a dedicated b&w printer and a separate one for color.

 

Just sort of fishing at this point so any and all comments are

welcome.

 

Thanks, vic...:)

Someone specifically told me(while shopping for Hassie gear in 2000)that in '99 Hasselblad offered some very very good student and educator pricing. Something to the effect of up to 50% off list. After which, in 2000 it went to about 30% off list. This may or may not have been true, I really don't know, just what I was told.

 

If that is true, which again I say it might not be, then it sort of makes sense. Students would seem more likely to dump new gear than working pro's. Same with educators. If they now have to purchase digital gear for education purposes it may seem reasonable to get rid of the expensive film gear.

 

Or not.

 

vic... :)

Oops, sorry Ilkka, didn't mean to misspell your name.

 

vic... :)

Illka,

 

I use the HR-2 which I believe is the recommended hood. It is foldable and it does just that. I usually alternate between 2 and 4 different lenses and when changing tend to 'jam' the lens quickly into the case. I prefer not to use lens caps or a protective 'filters'. So the metal hood acts as a protective buffer in the case. The rubber one is just too flexible for the purpose.

 

Michael, thanks!

 

Thanks, vic... :)

Is there a metal shade that will work on the AF 50/1.4D? I currently

use the foldable rubber one, the HR-2.

 

I see on the B&H site they have a HS-9 listed also. It looks like

plastic and it says ..."snap-on". How does that work out?

 

Thanks, vic... :)

Without my having to actually go through the process of posting

something to find out, could someone describe how the auction process

here on photo.net works?

 

And...

 

How about a description of how the sale process itself works. I see

expiration dates listed, are they arbitrary, optional, self deleting?

 

Can photos or links to photos of the gear be included in the

descriptions?

 

Or better yet point me to where this 'how to manual' already exists.

I've looked but for some reason can not find any descriptions.

 

thanks, vic... :)

Q.G.d.B. "A bean bag on top a tripod would have very little to rest on."

 

Ha, guess I wasn't very clear. Sorry. What I meant was with the camera on the tripod and ballhead. Then placing the beanbag on top of the camera. I guess that would be the proper way, now that I've thought it through a bit. Dave Cheng suggested using ones hand instead. I think the beanbag would be better. Though it is more to carry.

 

At least now I know why I've told, a few times, to gently hold the camera while shooting, even though it's on a tripod. Always thought there must have been something wrong with their gear.

 

And putting beans in a beanbag, uh, duh, who would'a thought...

 

vic... :)

Maybe I am living in the dark ages....where does one obtain a "beanbag?"

 

Just looked on B&H's site. Looks like a leather or cloth sack with a zipper on top. About 8" square. Looks like it comes empty, would have to fill it with something, not quite sure what or how heavy though.

 

vic...:)

The responses make a lot of sense. I don't know about Peter Bongard, but I have additional questions.

 

Having possible stability issues myself, I have been considering a quality ballhead. From what I understand I should then use a beanbag on top of the camera? Surrounding it, top and sides?

 

What are these 'beanbags'? How big are they? Something I can make myself? Would a heavy bag be better, such as one filled with bb's or lead shot? Or what? I never heard of such a thing, please forgive my ignorance.

 

Is it recommended in all situations, short and long lenses? Even with MLU?

 

Also, how does the wooden tripod affect things?

 

Thanks, vic... :)