the_macman

Rather hope no one mixed it.

Buy your own developer bottle and drag it any time you use a darkroom that isn't yours.

Stop doesn't matter. It's effective at any dilution and even water will do. The only reason

we use chemicals which are not only water is to extend the fixer life in order to use it for

many rolls or paper batches. The fixer as well gives you a wide range of concentration

under which you won't see any difference, so in most cases you can rely on that in a

darkroom that isn't yours. But don't trust that in the case of the developer.

Oh yeah. The battery indicator also blinks when the 1st problem occurs (mirror up), if that

is of any help. It stops blinking as the mirror goes down the 2nd time I press the shutter

button. There's no exposure made the 2nd time.

My trusty buddy is sick. From time to time the mirror would remain up (I checked MLU). I

first I thought it was really bad but the guy at the photo store demonstrated me that I

could make it go down by pressing the shutter button again and that despite of this weird

thing the shutter, which is independend, works perfectly. it turned out he was right. I was

able to shoot many rolls at correct exposure.

2nd problem, which started on later. Sometimes right after I shot, the film would rewind a

few frames, say from 20 to 13, and the film icon would blink urging me to remove it as it

is supposedly finished. Of course, the film in this case would be at 13 so opening the

door would ruin part of it. The film rewind button doesn't work.

The only way I found to work around this is to "reset" what the camera knows about the

film. The only way of doing so was to open and close the film door latch in the dark. This

would make the film icon stop blinking and the counter turn at 0. Now the rewind button

works and I can rewind the film (with the leader out), put it back again at 20 and finish it.

Anyhow, the 2nd problem is quite rare. The camera is still usable 95% of the time along

with the first problem. Nonetheless, pressing the shutter twice sucks, so anyone aware of

an approximate cost to repair this? I'm out of warranty.

While you're at retrying, recalculate your stuff as well.

Make sure you understand 1:10 as 1+9 and NOT 1+10 (there should be a visible contrast

difference between the two). Also, I really don't trust that 20 min thing. Check your

sources. I didn't work with Ilfosol but my bet would be below 8 mins or so.

The fetish of freezing and refrigerating is an ever-lurking phenomenon on this forum.

Unfortunately, rarely are the questions asked: why and when refrigerate? On the other

hand, there are some people next door timing paper fix baths up to the second :) so

circuses are predictable here too I suppose.

You really don't get it, do you? The store sells them until the expiration date at room T, as

per manufacturer's recommendations. What's your gain in storing them at a lower T ?

Freeze or refrigerate them if you plan to use them after 2010. Otherwise, don't bother.

There is no such thing as domestic film. No manufacturer is stupid enough to run two film

producing lines in two different location. The film itself is one and only, it is simply

packaged and shipped to retailers through two different channels, hence the difference.

Your question makes no reference to your actual needs. Are you a Canon equipment

collector or do you use those flashes?

A whole lot of newspapers are controlled by expired old farts who want a super high

resolution not knowing at what resolution they print and not thinking that they'll be fine

with 1/10th of that.

What about you do your homework by downloading the .pdf chart on the canon EOS

website which graphically shows which remotes go with which bodies ? The IR ones work

with a whole lot of film bodies (possibly all, I don't recall the paper exactly) and I doubt it's

that new.

Anyhow, to answer your question, expect the 20D to be compatible with the current

remotes. It's what Canon usually does.

What about you start by calculating how much electricity the fridge eats in five to ten years

and figure out how many rolls you can buy for that money. That's valid unless, of course,

if you have some film that isn't made anymore.

You can find small fridges for under $200 in which you can easily fit, I'd say, at least 100

-150 rolls. It eventually reaches a constant lowest power consumption if you use it only

for long term storage, i.e.: if you don't open the door too often. Look for dry ones. They're

more expensive but you won't have to empty them a few times a year to take off the ice,

the formation of which is as well in connection with how many times you open the door,

hence letting humidity in.

As for containers, I'd wrap them in plastic bags which I'd pack in Tupperware-style plastic

containers. Of course, that becomes problematic in smaller fridges as the containers

themselves take the space of many many rolls. You'll see as you pack it.

>>>> >> How long can I expect the film to last?

See the spec sheets.

They don't label pro emulsions in ISO 200 (except E200, that's all I recall). However,

remember that ISO is only a relative thing, it doesn't mean much alone. There are a whole

lot of ISO 160 pro films, many of which could be labeled as 200, I suppose as well as some

among those known as 400.

You're damn lucky if you live in an area where stores "are already selling them at a cheaper

price". Buy everything you can :-) I know I'd do it. Here (in Montreal, Canada), they used to

sell those two-pack of Portra UC for $9.99 CAN. I got 46 packs at that time. Ultra Color

400 is now $7.79/roll.

That was actually what was known and told by Canon. I see that Adorama has it listed at

$439 in USA version.

Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaase read the archives. Around $480 US street.

They say mid-september (whatever that means).

There is no such thing as "either" digital or film. I suppose we can all see some distortion

in any 24mm, which would be completely undetectable when mounted on a DSLR with a

1.6x crop factor.

The first link is very clear about it. The 2nd isn't, but my guess is that they meant exactly

the same thing as the first one. Unfortunately, it's a no.

http://www.usa.canon.com/html/eflenses/lenses/ef_14x/ef_14x.html

http://www.usa.canon.com/html/eflenses/lenses/ef_2x/ef_2x.html

Apparently, if you shoot 100+ rolls you might end up finding that there is a little more

consistency b/w the pro rolls than between their other, whetever they call it, film. But

that's theory and I guess nobody experimented :)

When Portra BW was sold, some people noticed it was exactly the same as the amateur

one, except for the base.... so apparently it was the same emulsion applied on two

different bases. Let's just hope it remained that way through the name changes.

Go amateur, it's a fine film.

Yeah, except the 20D wasn't released at Photokina. The press release and official product

photography precede Photokina quite a lot, unlike the 10D. Plus, Adorama and others got

it listed and are taking orders (meaning they got a signal from Canon). Photokina may be

the place when one could touch the 20D for the first time, but I bet it's gonna be parallel

to their entrance in stores.