rick_jones5

Diluted D-76 should ONLY be used as a one shot solution. Kodak recommends 16oz of D-76 1:1 per 80 sq in of film (1 roll 35mm-36 exp) suggesting a 10 percent time increase for 2 rolls. You may find the developer has even more capacity (i.e.-more than 2 rolls per 16oz solution) than that but you are going to have to determine the extended developing times on your own. Same answer for 1:3-you are own your own re time/capacity.

Mark-now that you have your equipment list go to www.agfanet.com or www.kodak.com. Both offer excellent step by step processing tutorials.

Richard-this may not be an issue but I'll bring it up because you didn't mention if important picture elements where at infinity in ALL of your shots made using the DOF scale. You would only align the infinity mark w/ the appropriate aperture mark on the DOF scale if really important parts of the shot where actually at infinity distance. If not you would work only with the near and far focus points making sure they were bracketed by the selected aperture on the scale. I think your 2 stop spread between the actual aperture and the alignment points on the scale is a sensible precaution. ALL lens manufacturers seem to be a little too optimistic in setting their DOF scales whether their name is Zeiss, Nikon or Mamiya.

1. Don't process the film - cutoff short sections as needed to test fix times.

2. If you truly believe this one experience and the subsequent responses hasn't cured you forever, then the only thing I can suggest is mark the backing paper "THIS SIDE DOWN" in big letters either with a marking pen on the backing or with sticky labels.

"The Zone System for 35mm Photographer's" by Carson Graves

Richard-if you would like to read and learn more on your own call Schneider at (516) 761-5000 and ask for a free copy of their 51 page filter guide. Read "Using Filters" in the Kodak Workshop Series. However, I learned more from "Photographic Filters" by Leslie Stroebel than anything else I've read (unfortunately, I believe it is out of print).

Dan-today's handheld meters will do everything but your laundry. The problem is they can be expensive, even used, costing considerably more than the price range you suggested. 1. Sekonic makes several dual use, spot/incident, meters which average multiple readings - big bucks.2. Incident meters can provide fast accurate readings and are used extensively by studio folks. Definitely in your price range if bought used. 3. I'm personally not familiar with any dual use incident/reflected meter that doesn't take spot readings. But there must be one out there.4. Nobody can tell you what meter to buy because there are so many approaches to exposure. Any well made linear meter will be "good for you" IF you know its limitations and you use it properly. First - grab a copy of Henry Hornstein's "Beyond Basic Photography" and read Chapter 1 CAREFULLY. That should get you thinking about what approach is best for you. I have never used a camera with a built in meter so a handheld meter is all I know. The only meter I now use is a Pentax digital spot. Read Henry, go out and buy a well made used meter and learn how to use it properly. If after a year you and your Hasselblad are still talking you'll go out and buy another meter cuz that's what happens to all of us.

Eric-before you do anything else go to www.kodak.com - click on "search" at the bottom left - do a search on T max - pick tech pub F-4016 and read EVERYTHING. You will know more about T Max and how to process it than anyone else in your class and certainly more than the teacher. I hear a lot of raps on Kodak from this site and others but they really do have a lot of great products and, maybe more important, offer a tremendous amount of information about their use. Just take advantage of it.

I know you say "I have developed 8 rolls--in the same way yet 2 rolls show tiny small lines". BUT you must of have done something different or allowed something to occur during the processing of those particular rolls unless you want to blame the great yellow father. I can't believe any of us can be of any real help without actually seeing the negatives and even then I think it's going to boil down to YOU carefully examining everything done in the handling and processing of the film. I know this is not what you want to hear but if you keep everything scrupulously clean, use fresh carefully prepared chemicals, control your temperatures and handle the film very gently you should never have the kind of problems you describe. (You can always consider concentrating on cat and dog photography!)

I'm aware of 6 readily available liquid washing aids: your Ilford Universal Wash Aid, Zonal-Pro Archival Rinse, Heico PermaWash,Photographer's Formulary Hypo Clear Agent, Edwal 4 and 1 and Orbit Bath. As far as I know they all do what they are supposed to do equally well.

No, I haven't had this problem. However, I can't help but wonder what I might do to try and track down the culprid. Dirt is getting into your processing and you're going to have to pin down the source by changing one processing variable at a time until you start seeing clean clear negatives. I would start by using distilled water from the grocery store for the entire process from developing thru final wash. Yeah, you will have to use about 3 gal at 89 cents a pop but how else can you be sure your tap water isn't the sourse of the problem. Don't let one drop of tap touch that film. For the wash PermaWash for 2 min then put the film through 5 or 6 successive changes of distilled water letting it soak for a minute or so between changes. If you still have the same problem I would go back to tap water but change developer. I would buy a new bottle of any general purpose liquid developer, HC110, FG7,or Rodinal and see if that solves the problem. Still no change? Mix up your stop from a brand new bottle of say Kodak Indicator. Still a problem? Buy a new bottle of liquid fix like Kodafix. Do I need to go on? Change only one processing variable at a time and do not use any of you present chemicals now at hand when you make a change. If you still have a problem you just may have to go digital. As to the scratches - you know as well as I that that must be from mishandling or a camera problem. Go thru the same process - change camera bodies then let someone else load your reels. Don't allow anything to touch the film until it is thoroughly dry and rethink the area where you hang the film to dry. Again there is always digital. Whatever happens, PLEASE let use know how you finally solved this problem.

Check www.criscam.com for their mercury battery replacement adapter for the Spotmatics. I'm sure they can advise which is appropriate for your camera.

I would contact the manufacturer thru their internet site or by mail. Most manufacturers have data sheets which provide detailed product information which could never be printed on their containers. Why guess if this information is available from the people who should know. Otherwise you may have to do some testing on your own. Do you really have a problem? Shoot two identical rolls exposed under identical conditions. Process the first roll with a new bottle of SD-76. Develop ten rolls per your normal routine. Develop your duplicate roll as your twelth roll,exactly as the first. Print frames from the two rolls using the same paper and printing times. If your processing is consistent you should know immediately whether or not an adjustment in developing time is necessary between roll one and twelve. Let us know how you ultimately resolved your question.

Rick Jones