dougs

<p>Sent the camera to Youxin Ye. (wye7@yahoo.com) he had it maybe two weeks and the camera operates and sounds like new...$80. </p>

<p>fantastic..thanks for your suggestions.</p>

<p>I will be traveling to Moscow in early December, i will be meeting up with a couple of local Moscow fashion models. <br>

Are there any written or unwritten rules for model photography while working within the City?</p>

<p>Best<br>

Doug~</p>

<p>Can i please get some recommendations as to where a good shop is, for performing a CLA on my leica screw mount?<br>

I did a search, but most of the responses were several years old.<br>

thanks<br>

Doug `</p>

<p>thank you for all your suggestions.</p>

<p>i realized that the software was targeting 5000K and casting the screen with an orange tint.<br>

by changing the target to 6500K, the cast has gone and the printed images now match what i am seeing on the screen.</p>

<p>I had been using adobe gamma with pretty good results as far as wysiwyg, monitor screen to printing.<br>

I recently upgraded to CS5 and adobe gamma is longer supplied. I thought i have put off buying a monitor calibration system, so maybe nows a good time. well i invested in the Datacolor Spyder 3 pro system.<br>

so i run the calibration and my screen now looks like crap.....overly orange and warm...when looking at the comparison, before / after cal...i much prefer the uncalibrated.<br>

while following the on screen prompts, it asked me to position the contrast/brightness slider half way and update. what slider? the monitors contrast and brightness adjustments are already set at 50% (halfway).<br>

what am i missing?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>*i was using the AC adapter to insure good power..<br>

well i have the camera working now, i was just trying anything.<br>

after messing with the numbering sequence and frames captured in the "c" mode, it works.<br>

i will try and replicate the problem later this evening. </p>

<p>camera was working fine, then during a break in the shoot...<br>

the "card" icon on the main LCD is blinking.<br>

camera will not fire shutter or DOF preview.<br>

i get a "Cr" in the frame counter in the viewfinder.<br>

i remove the Cf card and the camera will fire and DOF will operate.<br>

i tried several known good CF cards, Lenses and batteries.<br>

cards are FAT formatted from my computer and i formatted them in the camera.</p>

<p>any thoughts to what my problem is?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Does anyone have the specs to develop this film?<br>

the best i could find was 8-9 mins in D76...(@ 20degrees C i'm guessing?)</p>

 

<p>thanks ~</p>

<p>I want to set the ISO on the lens, but the iso setting are in numbers that range from 1-17 or something like that..<br>

can any tell me what the iso numbers equate to in actual iso sensitivity?</p>

<p>if i am not mistaken, it's not just warranty service that nikon usa won't provide, they wont touch the camera period.<br>

for repairs, you either have to go to an independent or send it out of the country.</p>

 

so am i going to wind up being executed for shooting in Qatar?

 

anyone ever traveled there?

 

shot there?

 

lmk

 

thanks..

Doug

uncorrected film scan...

i developed the film for 7 mins in the hc110, dillution "b" for 7 minutes.<div></div>

3.75mins @ 22degrees C is from the from Fuji spec sheet.

i make 2 gallons from one botle of HC-110, i believe that is dillution "b"

kodak has a rule of thumb that you should add two minutes fo every stop you are pushing...

 

but does that hold true for the fuji product as well?

i accidentally exposed a roll of iso 100 acros @ iso 400.

 

ie: pushed two stops..

 

how do i compensate in the development?

 

i usually develop in HC110 for 3.75 mins @ 22 degrees C.

 

thanks inadvance

 

doug

why would images appear differently (more saturated and contrast) in a windows based image viewer and in

photoshop?

i just bought a replacement MD4 motor drive (broken battery holder) for my F3 (image can be seen in my gallery) in exc condition from KEH. makes the camera pretty heavy, but you wont miss anything...

there was a pretty big gap in price between the D300 and D3, $1800 - $5000.

the D700 fits right in with price and build.

http://www.radioshack.com/sm-dantona-4-5v-600mah-alkaline-battery-for-digital-cameras--pi-2715648_tb-features.html

 

$7.99 cheap

is the lighten/darken adjust on the lens an exposure compensation?

batteries are available at www.radioshack.com

after i mx the powered D76 from the package instructions i have, what ill

assume is a full strength developer.

 

when some of the develovement instructions D76 at 1:1...does that mean i

dilute it more?