davidv1

A little JB Weld would hold the flash shoe on the new cap...not pretty, of course, but useful just the same.

Try placing a WTB ad at www.lfphoto.info.

Drop $20 on a Holga to pass the time. Or build a pinhole camera. No, I'm not kidding. Your Yashica will come back in good shape. Try something different while you're waiting.

How much did the CLA run? Seems I've got this old Agfa...

You've been wanting a Harrison changing tent anyway, so now's the time. I like mine a lot; it's much better than trying to light-proof a bathroom.

You can get a reasonable lens, with shutter, for under $50 that will cover 4x5. You'll have to look around a bit. I got a 5x7 Rapid Rectilinear and a Voigtlander 135 for $40 each. They're not great, but they do work, and were a steal at the price.

 

$100 should get you a 90mm Optar or a 135 Ektar. $250 would get you a Crown Graphic, complete with lens.

 

Pinholes are cool, and practically free.

No sweat. Hope you enjoy it.

 

You can get an OM 28 or 35 for $100 or so. Even the truly great stuff isn't all that expensive by Leica standards. Sadly, the 40mm OM lens seems to have attained cult status. They're going for a lot - $400 or $500. I've got a Minolta CLE 40 (and the beautiful Konica Hexanon 40mm) so I'm in no rush for a 40mm OM.

You worry too much. Use it a lot, and don't worry.

What lens do you have for the M6? I assume that you have the 40mm for the CL. You should try the 40 on the M6. You might end up selling the CL body and keeping the lens to use on the M6.

 

Not that there's anything wrong with having two Leicas...and a CL makes a lovely backup.

Leica forum or not, here's a few answers:

 

The OM-10 was built in the early-to-mid 80's. It's aperture priority, with an optional manual adapter. The adapter pops out from the front, attached with a small headset-style plug. I have no idea why they didn't just build that feature in. It's gotta be a decision from the marketing department. The adapters are getting tough to find on their own.

 

Yup, an electronic shutter requires batteries to operate. Two PX-76, I believe. At least they're alkaline instead of mercury, so they're common.

 

The 50/1.8 is very good. Maybe not up to Summicron quality, but still quite nice. There are two or three versions; later ones are multi-coated instead of single-coated.

 

Most Olympus lenses are good, and a lot of them are cheap now. (Too bad the 40mm isn't one of them!) Look around a bit for reviews. The really wide ones are relatively expensive, but a 28 or 35 is cheap.

 

The OM-10 is a great camera. They're only going for $100 or so with the 50/1.8 lens, so don't be afraid to use yours.

 

Regards, David

Here's how to solve this: Get a Series VI slip-on adapter, then use a dab or two of JB Weld epoxy to fit a step-up ring to it. No need to pay a machinist for this one. Total cost less than $10.

The initial problem with shutter speeds was more likely due to dried lubricants than any other cause. Just use it regularly, and don't worry about it.

I've got one from Holgamods, and I can measure the aperture diameter if you like.

 

Is negative film really giving you trouble? A little overexposure never hurt, I always say. Use ASA 400 and don't worry about it. If you're having trouble with your developing process, try shooting a few rolls with a more accurate camera (practically anything, really) and soup those to see if your process is working okay. You might need to invest in a small cooler and an aquarium heater to keep solutions around the right temp. Or switch to Diafine, which seems to be insensitive to temperature swings.

Harry,

 

"In business since 1955" makes Mr. Gowland reliable, but not so young anymore. On his site he even says that the TLR's are "likely to be a rare collector's item in the near future". And for several models, the ad copy says that no more will be made after current parts are gone. I mean no ill will towards Mr. Gowland, but maybe you should look at cameras with a larger support base than what sounds like a one-man shop.

The metal hood from the current 50 Elmar works just fine on a 50 Summicron. They're both 50mm's, after all.

 

If you're feeling cheap, you can substitute a few empty 39mm filter rings. Just paint the interior flat black.

Instead of sending a camera to a complete stranger, why not ask for a volunteer via Craigslist.org? You can pick the general locale, and it should increase your chances of getting the camera returned. I'd definitely use a 35mm from a thrift store instead of a 120 camera.

 

I actually had a clerk in a Ritz store point at a box of 120 film and say "No, that's 35mm; we don't carry 120 film".

You could call them & see.

 

http://web.archive.org/web/20030812175828/http://granview.com/contacts.html

 

The phone's 1-760-674-8994.

 

Good luck!

People don't appreciate being mocked. There was a photo book out a year or so ago called "Passing Gas" or similar. The photographer looked up all the towns in the US with funny names, and then drove there and took portraits of the locals. The portraits weren't very good, and his commentary was typical city slicker condescension. I can't imagine that many of those folks would be happy with the way they were portrayed. Even if you live in Dogpatch, it's still your home town.

Be sure to get a padded waist belt if you get an ALICE frame. Carrying any serious weight without one makes your shoulders sore very quickly.

Maybe you'd use it more if you got the Ultron instead. Mine is excellent.

Sure, but will anyone be able to afford it? For amateurs and starving artists, the cool part of large format film is that it's pay-as-you-go after you've got a camera & lens. No need to take out a second mortgage just to make some images.

How do you wash your prints?

Huw,

 

Have you seen the OptiLED Festival (or Festoon) lights?

 

http://www.optiled.biz/products/products.html

 

Their blue is the same 455 nm wavelength as the Luxeon Royal Blue. I can't tell how bright they are compared to the Luxeons, though.

 

Do you suppose a simpler model enlarger head could be built around one or more of the blue OptiLEDs?

 

Thanks, David

The swastika (or fylfot) has Native American roots as well.

Here's a guy who's done it to a ShurShot:

 

http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/shurshot_conv/

 

And a thread on the same topic:

 

http://www.apug.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14792