robert_ley

Vick, You don't mention if you have any experience in large format. My suggestion to you is to do what I did. My first LF camera was a Graflex Super Graphic. The Super Graphic was the last Press/Field camera that Graflex made. It has extensive front movements, a descent length bellows, revolving back and is built of metal and is very durable. It has a rangefinder and cams for lenses are not hard to come by. The truth of the matter is that LF is not for everyone and if you decide that you want to stick with LF you can sell the Graphic for probably what you paid for it and can upgrade to that Linhof. Meanwhile you have learned the basics on essentially a disposible camera. I moved up to a Wista VX, but still have and use my Super Graphic. BTW the entire ground glass, fresnel and 90degree viewfinder from my Cambo SC mono-rail fits on the back of the Graphic like a charm and makes for a nice backup for the Wista.

Jonathan, I just checked out B&H in New York and they have a 2.5lt Tetenal Kit for $32 that can be used at room temp or standard 35c. I don't believe that there are any separate bleach and fix in RA-4. Jobo recommends Tetenal so you should not go wrong.

Michael- My Wista VX also has "Wista 45" on the bottom front standard. As you face the front of the camera, the knob on the left raises the lens standard and the knob on the right tightens the standard to hold it in place. My wista is well used and is still fairly stiff and the rise works very well and tightens securely. So when I am behind the lens and operating the rise, my right hand controls the rise and my left controls the tightening. I don't know what lenses you are using, but my 210 Symmar-S is kind of a load and will not drop by itself even w/o tightening the locking knob. Hope this helps.

I just started using Pyrocat HD and really like this developer. My

standard developer has been DDX, but tried the Pyrocat and have worked

out my times for FP-4 in 4x5 at 12-13 min. 1:1:100, presoak in a jobo

2509 reels. I have several 120 rolls of Delta 100 and given my

experience with FP-4, does anyone have an idea what a ballpark time

would be for the Pyrocat? BTW my N developement time for DDX 1:4 and

Delta 100 is 7 min.

Vijay, I have a late model Geronar in a Black copal 1 shutter and it does have a spacer ring that seals the shutter from the smaller front element. I do not believe that it is really a spacer ring as the element screws in tightly without the ring. It looks more like a seal. I would think that you can get a replacment from a Rodenstock dealer and it appears to be made of plastic. It is a nice sharp lens and small in stature. This is my field lens in that focal length (I have a 210 f:5.6 Symmar-S for studio) It works best at >f:16.

Dave, I have a Wista VX and just mounted my 90mm f:6.8 Caltar-IIN (Rodenstock) and was able to get a fair amount of rise with the standard bellows. There is a bag bellows on Ebay going down in about 20 hrs. Check out : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7606805497&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

I have this bellows. It is easy to change back and forth and allows all the movements you could want with a wide lens. I use this bellows with my 75mm SA and it works well. I got mine in good condition for a little over $100.

Adam, I recently replaced my 210 Symmar-S with the Geronar for the weight reduction and size difference that the Geronar affords. It uses 58mm filters so I can use my standard 67mm filters with a step ring and can ditch the 77mm filters that I only used on the Symmar. It does have a smaller image circle, but is multicoated and has a newer and more accurate shutter. I have not noticed any problem with the IC with the Landscape shots that I use it for and the reduction in weight is nice in the pack. BTW these can be had off Ebay for usually less than $200.

Tamara, Is there a reason that you must have a multicoated lens? Multicoating can be very over-rated in a large format lens because there are not as many air-glass surfaces. If you use a good lens hood and shade the lens from light, you should be able to get excellent color results with a single-coated lens. Eliminating the "multicoated" criterion will give you many more lens to choose from and will save you some money as well.

Why don't you try it and report back your findings?

The beauty of the Beseler 45 system is the backward and forward compatibility of all the parts and that includes neagative holders. A negative holder from the fifties will fit an enlarger from the ninties. This carries through as long as it is a 45 series accessory. All 23 series accessories should fit all 23 series enlargers. The lensboards are the same for the 45 and the 23 series enlargers. The Beseler especially the 45MXT is a great enlarger and should last a lifetime.

Just checked my Fuji Quickload back with my Wista VX graflock back and the quickload holder has two small groves on either side and it works perfectly with the graflock sliders. It seems to attach very tight and secure. Maybe someone can check their Kodak readyload holder.

Allison,

Check out this web site http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html

as it is the B&W products info page. There is a PDF on Ilfotec DD developer and you may learn something about your problem there.

Are you using developer starter with your tank of developer? That may be your problem.

I have been putting my 4x5 holders in two of these soft sided picnic coolers for about two years. One thing that I found (I am relatively new to Large format) is that they will collect dust. I noticed alot of dust specks on my negs. I now line the cases with very large (one gallon) size zip-locks and have noticed my dust problem drop dramaticly. I keep my holders in these zip-locks from when they are loaded until exposed.

Just got back from a 10 day trip to Peurto Rico. Shipped all my film and holders by FedEx. No problem and as a matter of fact, the film almost beat me back to the states. It arrived the day after my return.

With FedEx, you can ship to a local FedEx at your destination and pick it up on arrival. This saves all the hassles of lugging film and holders through the airport and any chance that you will be inspected, harassed, or x-rayed.

I too saw that picture of Ansel on top of his Travelall and was inspired to do the same with my '89 Toyota Land Cruiser. I used 3/4 inch Marine plywood and doubled up with four Thule bars on the rain gutters. I had a thule car top carrier on the passenger side and a 3x8 foot platform on the drivers side. I used a piece of lexan in the front as a wind deflector which actually moved the air up and over the back. I coated the plywood with spar varnish and sand for good footing. I put two 5 gallon metal gerry cans on the back of the platform for spare gas (needed the extra fuel with the Cruiser) and containers for water. This sucker would go anywhere and I drove it from New York to Washington state one summer. I got a neat little folding ladder that would hook on to the Thule brackets. The down side is the extra weight of the whole rig including the sleeping platform inside the back with a slide out draw for camping equipment and food. It really could have used either helper springs in the back or better yet would have been adjustable air shocks. It was a fun project, but I used the platform on only a few occasions and got no prize winners out of the experience. I would probably think twice about doing it again.<div></div>

This web site can give you information on your Fuji lens.

http://members.aol.com/subgallery/byfl.htm

I have been using a 45VX(no microswing back and lighter) and love it. I use a 75SA with this camera with a recessed board and no problem with the standard in the shot and easily focused. With the bag bellows you can get all the movements that any 90 can give you. It will also take an extention bellows that wil allow you to use a 360+ with ease. I use an old 360 Tele-xenar with no problems on a flat board. It uses the common technicka boards and the camera and accessories are readily available on feebay.

Andrew, It might be more cost effective to just buy a Dichro 45S head for your enlarger. Take a look on Ebay. You can probably find a good used one cheaper than it would cost to repair the head that you have now.

I had the same problem several years ago when my Beseler/Minolta 45 head took a dump. I sent it off to ColorBat. It cost me $600 and it wqas no better than when I sent it. I got a 45s head and never looked back. I have no compaints, the head works like a charm. Darkroom equipment, thanks to the "digital revolution", is going for dirt on ebay. Check it out.

Regards, Robert

I second Kelly on that suggestion of Freestyle. I have been buying their APH and APHS for well over twenty years. I think it is a decent substitute for Kodalith and is about 1/3 the cost. Freestyle does have a web site, the last time I went on it was poorly laid out. If you wanted a box of RC VC paper you had go through 30 pages to find the paper that you wanted, no selective search. How will you use this Graphic Arts Film?

I am junping in a little late on this but here goes. If you are not adverse to running some RA-4, Kodak makes a great paper called Portra Black & White. It produces a B&W print from a color neg using RA-4 color chemistry. I have gotten results that I am happy with. The image tone is very neutral, but can go green if your bleach is on the way out. You have a very limited(2-3) contrast range by changing your filter pack. It works well with a colorhead or just acetates in the filter draw. I use my colorhead which works very well in my circumstance. This paper is far better than regular VC paper and I think it is easier to work with than the panalure YMMV.

Patrick, Check out this page: http://www.viewcamera.com/images/focalchart.gif

This should clearup some of your confusion on the different focal lenths and film formats and how they relate to each other.

I recently picked up a 135 Wide Field Ektar on Ebay. The filter size

is Series VII. Does anyone know where I might be able to get an

adapter to go from Series VII to 58mm so that I may be able to use

some filters with this fine lense? On close inspection I noticed a

number of fine scratches in the back element of the lense and was

wondering if they will effect the image quality. The seller said

that they where in the coating and wouldn't effect the image, but I

am skeptical. My plan is to run some comparison tests. I have a

135mm Symmar that is of known quality and will use this lense side by

side with the ektar. Does any one see any problem with using a roll

film adapter and 120 film vs 4x5 film? Any info that you can give me

on this lense would be appreciated.

A friend has given me a project of printing some B&W negatives on

canvas. My plan is to use Rockland "Liquid Light" (already purchased

the projection speed emulsion) She would like the images toned brown

or sepia. Does anyone have experience in toning the Rockland

emulsion? I will be treating the canvas with oil based gesso. What

is the best way to wash the canvas. I know that I must use a non-

rapid fix. I am getting some powdered hardening fixer and will use

Permawash. The canvas will be cut into strips and woven into a

tapestry. Any tips that can be given would be greatly apprectiated.

Thanks, Robert

I have been using D-19 with 400ASA films for many years in the medical photography field. It is a pretty HOT developer and will give you some pretty contrasty results. The new tri-x does not work well with this developer, way too contrasty. I have switched to a N+2 developement with HC-110 which works much better for my needs. You could use D-19 at 1:1 for about 6-8 minutes, but that is only a starting point. Try a couple of test rolls. You will just have test to find what works best for you. If you have only been in this business of B&W for a short time, you must realize that development times will vary according to how you process (Temp control, agitation, quality of water, age of chemistry, to name just a few variables). Test, Test, Test. Good Luck. Robert

I have to second everyone's opinion of KEH. They are very conservative in there rating. I bought what they called a "bargain" lens. When it came it was in excellant condition. Needless to say I was delighted. I would buy with confidence from them!

Regards, Robert