angel_o.

March 10, 2003

Robert,

if you use "selective color correction" in PS you get, what I go in the attachment.

Enjoy!<div></div>

March 6, 2003

What is the shooting distance and do you remember the in P-mode selected f-stop?

March 6, 2003

Australian Dollars? - Thanks, Rory!

It was early in the morning... ;-)

March 6, 2003

Joce,

where I live the Pentax KM is EUR 80,- and the 28/3.5 Pentax lens is EUR 60,- worth (1 EUR = aprox. 1 US-$). Usually in the U.S. cameras are much cheaper than over here. $150,- seems to be a lot, specially when the mirror has dots on it (the dots are not really important but a good wrench to screw down the selling price).

You should give special attention to the shutter curtain.

There should be no wearing signs (e.g. scratches), mechanical manipulations ("do-it-yourself" repairs) and "oily" mechanisms. Of course, the actuation of all mechanical parts should be smoothly.

The lens should be clean, without scratches, fungus or whatever. The mechanical parts should be moving smoothly.

If everything is alright, enjoy your new camera! ;-)

March 5, 2003

"..."Aperture priority on the camera will give underexposure"..."

The thruth is somewhere in the middle. Very often the camera won't give you an underexposure. Of course, if you select f/32 and expect to light 100 meters (aprox. 90 yards) it probably won't work.

It depends on your flash's guide number if you get an underexposure or not.

Remember that your shooting distance d with flash is:

d = GN/aperture

Example: The max. GN of the SB-28 is 50 meters (reflector at 85mm, ISO 100),

using the aperture f/8, your max. possible lightning distance is 6.3 meters.

To light 100 meters at f/32 you'll need a flash with GN=3200...maybe 64 SB-28s would do it too... :)

March 5, 2003

Hi Donald,

the N50 doesn't support any kind of remote release.

In "Time"-mode the camera releases the shutter 0.5 sec after depressing it and it mantains the shutter open until you depress it again. If you want to take "shake-less" pictures without needing long exposure, you don't have an option to avoid the self-timer.

Nevertheless, I saw recently an adaptor for cameras that don't have a thread for cable-releases. It consists of a nylon strap with a threaded plastic socket, I don't know if it works with the N50 - it might be an extra option.

March 4, 2003

The shortest possible shutter-speed on a N80 with a speedlight is 1/125S.

There is no way to select high-speed flash (FP) on a SB-28/SB-80 with the N80 (pages of the manuals: N80, p.82 / SB-28, p. 50).

March 4, 2003

Nathan,

LOL, don't you think that the Zenith's standard features, like aperture and shutter speed are, as someone else said, really "distracting" features? ;-)

People got used to zillions of AF sensors, P-modes, batteries lasting ten film rolls and 8 billion sensor metering. With these features the Zeniths cannot compete (no batteries, no P-mode, no x sensors, just a simple manual camera - even the meter is manual).

Today, it's important for a camera that the feature list is longer than the one of the competitor. Actually, looking at many threads on PhotoNet, there is more talking on technical specs of cameras and lenses (e.g. VR, AF-S, SWM, IS, G's) than of composition and photographing tips and tricks.

March 1, 2003

Well, it looks like a No Words: Dogs doing what they really like most (=running, sleeping, walking, etc.

Enjoy!

March 1, 2003

Munich, N50, AF-D 28-80

March 1, 2003

Freiburg, N50, AF-D 28-80

</center>

March 1, 2003

My first SLR was a Zenith EM with an Helios 54mm/1.4 and two Zeiss lenses (32/2, 115/4). I loved this camera and the reason for switching after owning it over 25 years (without service) was that it got stolen. The lens was very sharp and okay, the camera wasn't a formula 1 but it had everything for photographing (DOF, double exposure, etc.). I used this camera everywhere, in sandy, hot regions as well as in very cold places. It went with me water-skiing as well as snow-skiing (the lowest temperature it had to take pictures were at -37°C). So far, I cannot complain about this SLR (oh yes, the only thing: it got stolen :'( ).

February 28, 2003

The G's strike back....

February 28, 2003

<img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?

photo_id=1332658&size=md">

F80, AF 75-300

</center>

February 27, 2003

Well, as I see so far the Nikon Forum has some daily impact on the users:

- some eat candy F5s

- some have some F(un) here and some F(un) there, while teaching a sheep to count

- some are freezing in Nippon

- some think all the time of composition

- some call their female acquaintances F1, F2, F3, F4,... like other their career steps, where F4 seems to be the best compromise in these days...

All in all, many dream of film canisters, EVs, open stops and buying equipment they don't have use for it. In other words, just normal people - there's nothing to worry about! ;-)

Have fun!

February 27, 2003

From the Nikon Japan website:

"Note: The G-type Nikkor has no aperture ring; aperture should be selected from camera body. G-type Nikkor is compatible with all exposure modes of the Nikon F5, F100, F80, F75, F65, F60, F55, F50, F-401-series, PRONEA 600i, PRONEA S, D1 series and D100, and the P and S modes of the F4, F90-series, F70, F-801-series and F-601M. Other cameras are not compatible."

The F-401 is the same as the N4004.

February 27, 2003

If you don't have the right tool, you may really "screw" it (=scratch the lens or damage the thread). If you have the right tool, you just have to unscrew it, that's all. BTW, watch out, the inner screw looks like beeing plastic (this one gives the tension to the lens and avoids that the outer one screws off). As already said, I wouldn't risk it (anymore) because of a little bit of dust that is probably going to be more after the cleaning process.

February 26, 2003

1" with f/5.6 (ISO 100) is equivalent to +5 EV. If my info is correct, the meter of the F65 has a metering range between +1 EV and +20 EV (ISO 100, 50mm/1.4 lens). With the 28-80 zoom, the effective metering range is between aprox. +3.5 EV (@28mm) and +5 EV (@80mm). This means that the available light is to low for correct metering (it may be possible that with CW you're aiming at a 5 EV value but with matrix metering the right exposure would be e.g. 4 EV).

You may have the following solutions:

- use the build-in flash

- use a faster lens (e.g. 50/1.8)

- use manual mode (an external light-meter won't hurt either)

Hope this helps further!

February 26, 2003

It's an exotic Mitsubishi (twin turbocharged, DOHC, 4WD, 320 hp, etc.) with a very long name. Its name reminds me of the "AF VR 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6D ED" which has an even longer name. ;)

February 26, 2003

Yesterday, while driving home I realized that the license plate of

the car driving in front of me reminded me of buying some Film ("K-NC

160" ;) ). So, I realized that the periodically reading of the

photo.net forums influenced me. Therefore, I was wondering Which side

effects have the reading of the Nikon Forum on its readers?.

Some thoughts:

- whenever Mercedes Benz releases a new G series, you get a heart-

attack or think of compatibility issues

- your kid, F.-5 years old

- whenever you see a 3000GT VR-4 you think of Vibration

Reduction and hand-holding

...

Let me hear your thoughts!

February 26, 2003

If I remember right, the N65 uses center-weighted metering in manual mode (please correct me if I'm wrong), so it can be possible that the program curves for matrix metering don't cover the measured EV. BTW, which shutter speed and aperture do you select in manual mode to get a correct exposure. In addition, which lens are you using? - 3rd party?

February 26, 2003

Without question, I'd take the AF-D 50/1.8.

The 70-300 is not really useful in a crowded city. The 50mm focal lenght is a good compromise between the much more expensive 28mm wide angle and a 80mm tele (by zooming 3 steps with your feet forward or backwards you have the picture angle of the 80mm or the 28mm).

In addition, it's a tack sharp lens!!!

February 25, 2003

Hi,

I just checked my SB-28 manual and the F4's "bells and whistles" should work with it.

Since I don't own an F4, it might be better that you check yourself the manual: <A

href="http://www.nikon-euro.com/nikoneuro2/download/download_manuals100.htm#Speedlights">here is the link to the manual</A>.

Hope this helps.

February 25, 2003

Well, I think that the moderator can't do much, since the participating people in a forum are responsible for its quality.

I think that the "No Words" threads should visually be easier to spot (e.g. a colored dot for these kind of threads would be helpful).

Of course, those "The G strikes back" and "Why C* is so much better than N*, though I'd never buy [xxx]" threads are full of emotions and increase the activity level, but are not really contributing anything to increase the forum's quality. Nevertheless, I think that this forum is pretty good and I wouldn't really change anything so far.

February 25, 2003

Aaron,

"...3D Spot Balanced Fill Flash..."

sounds much better to me than "...spot metering with 3D Matrix...".

Well, I think that manuals are not always very clear (maybe a translation issue - my german SB-28 manual is sometimes "a Kreuz" :'( )

Thanks for clarifying!

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Posts posted by angel_o.