angel_o.

Hi Mike,

have you deselected the "Automatic Thumbnail Preview for Film" option in the Twain-configuration menu?

Actually, you should then be able to select two areas with a maximum size of 84x25 mm (therefore, a 36x24 frame should not be a real challenge).

BTW, I'm using Twain 5.53.

Hope this helps.

Sorry, misspelled:

The AFS 24-85 doesn't cost EUR 450,- it costs EUR 499,-. ;-)

Cheers

Neil,

there is a "Nikkor AFS 24-85/3,5-4,5 G ED" which costs EUR 450,- and a

"Nikkor AFS 28-70mm/2.8 D IF" which costs EUR 2149.- !!!

I'm referring to the Nikkor "AFS 24-85/3,5-4,5 G ED" which is definitely not a "2.8" lens.

So please don't mix up things.

Too bad, I already sold mine in mint condition for 40 % less...

The "Sigma EX 28-70/2,8 DF" costs in Munich EUR 449.- the "Nikkor AFS 24-85/3,5-4,5 G ED" costs EUR 499,-.

I would not recommend a lense that may have compatibility problems and surely has a worse AF performance just because it is 50 Euros cheaper.

BTW, I wouldn't compare the AF performance of 70-300 zoom with a 28-80 zoom - two different worlds.

Hi,

I used to have a Sigma 28-200 zoom - I'll never get such a huge zoom-range again. I think there is too much loss of sharpness and contrast even on small prints (not to mention slides). <br>

But of course, that depends on what you expect from a photo. <br>

If I would really want a 28-200 zoom again (wich I doubt), I would go for the Nikkor. <br> <br>

Anyway, since you own the F80, you can become a happy owner of an "AF-S 24-85/3,5-4,5 G ED" as stated above, and add a zoom or prime in your desired longer range. Of course, then you spent your lunch... ;)<br> <bR>

Other things to consider: <br>

*) zoom lenses in this range usually have a typical minimum focus distance of a tele-zoom (mine had 1.5 m) which was indoors often annoying <br> <br>

*) 99% of the time you are not going to use the 200 mm range indoors <br> <br>

*) F 5.6 is slow, you need a tripod at the 200 mm end (then you could also carry a real tele-zoom too) or fast film (wich doesn't increase sharpness and contrast either) <br> <br>

*) usually they are build very compact, therefore they use a telescopic tubus of more than two elements with each having play. The "wobbling" of the three elements with play is, as time gets by, not funny. <br> <br>

David, <br>

you better run away from Sigma lenses. <br> <br>

I've experienced similar AF-problems with Sigma lenses in low light conditions until I switched to Nikkor lenses (in fact, the AF-gear of my Sigma-lens broke once while sawing back and forward). <br> <br>

Actually, the red light is the AF-illuminator (it's not for measuring distance, this is done, if I understand the manual right, through the reflection of the pre-flashes), it should provide enough light to focus (I'm using a SB-28 and the handbook says that the AF-Light turns on in a range of 1-8 meters, this is about 3-26 ft). <br>

Check the AF-illuminator of the flash, you should see a red colored, vertical grid on your subject until it is in focus (switch to MF, so you'll have plenty of time to check it ;) ).

Wes, <br>I own a 1290 (I think that is the 1280 in the US) and it does a real good job on all kinds of photographs.

Are you sure that the printing head is clean? Try the self-test of the printer and take a look at the printed colors, there should be a noticeable difference between the six ink colors. <BR><BR>

Another suggestion is to upgrade the printer driver (I'm using version 5.22/P from the Epson-Germany homepage www.epson.de) and try it again.<br>

Usually I don't bother at the printer settings, I just select "Premium Glossy Photo Paper" and Automatic with the option "quality". <bR> <br>

Good luck! <br>

Angel

Getlemen,

let�s assume we have a serious lens-changing paranoia.

Therefore, we need 10 seconds to change a lens, shoot 2 pictures per second and change the lens every two pictures, we are very skilled in changing 36 exposure film-rolls, let�s say it takes us 10 seconds (rewinding it, taking it off and charging a new one).

This means, every 3.5 minutes of our precious life, we have changed at least one film-roll, took 36 pictures and mounted the lens 18 times on and off.

In the two-year warranty-time of our gear, we changed 302,950. times the film-roll, took 10,906,200. pictures and last but not least we changed the lens 5,453,100. times.

So we spent around 530,162. Bucks in film-rolls, dropped the one and other of our precious lens, the shutter evaporated, the gears in the film-transport mechanism went with the film-roll, the camera-back fell "simply" off, the plastic release button is completely worn-out and - we turned insane.

So, why do we worry about a steel or a brass mount?

Let�s be realistic, the lens mount is definitely not going to decide on the life-time of the camera.

Enjoy taking pictures!

-A.O.

Hi,

I did a similar test in a dark room with a Nikon N50 (supports only 2D matrix balanced and center weighted TTL Fill-Flash) and pointing a SB-28 towards a mirror.

The results were more or less what you described (dark pictures with one bright spot).

In addition, I turned then the light on, pointed the flash-head towards the mirror and the result was a well exposed picture with good contrast.

A further test with the room-light off and the flash-head tilted towards the ceiling (diffusor card pulled out) lead to a good exposed picture too.

So it seems, that the bright reflection on the mirror in a dark room blinds the electronics.

-A.O.