angel_o.

hi, if you want to use the D200 as commander only, select "Built-in flash/Commander/built-in <-->" and set the flash groups as you need them(TTL,A,M,/exp.comp.). This ay the built-in flash won't affect the exposure.

Regards

As said, the image is right out of the box without sharpening and any claim on perfection. This is one of the first photos while testing just the operatibility of my lenses with my new camera. The shown snap-shot was taken with the Nikkor 75-300/4.5-5.6 at 150 mm, f/5.0, T=1/60 - hand-hold (!) - So imagine the sharpness that could have turned out if the camera would have been on a steady tripod, a better lens would have been mounted on the camera, etc.

 

Regards

Here the 100% crop of the left eye (no sharpening or PS modifications).

I'd recommend using the D200 prior speculating about its sharpness. Enclosed a snap out of the box.

First of all: congratulations on the twins. Before my daughter was born, I had the same head-ache deciding on the "right" focal lenght for taking her first pics. Finally, I ended up taking most of the head and shoulder portraits with the 85/1.8 and the 105/2.8 on 35mm film (new borns are really small and don't even move too fast ;-) ). On digital I'd go at least with the 50mm focal length. BTW, using flash is not a good idea (even bounced off the ceiling) for photographing new borns - their eyes are higly sensitive and in the first hours of their life, even day light blinds them.

Regards.

IMO the results are better than satisfying. The photos taken wide open (f/6.7) with the TC17 look better (sharpness, color and contrast) than the pics taken with my other TC, the 1.4x Kenko Pro 300 at f/5.6.

I'm using the AFS300/4 with the TC17EII without problems, AF is retained on my F80 but I prefer with this combo to rely on manual focussing (focussing is this way much faster and the camera hunts less ;-)). Before I bought the TC17EII I tried the lens with the TC20EII, it retained AF too but the viewfinder of the F80 was too dark, so that I decided for the TC17E. I'd have never expected that the 1/2 stop between F/6.5 and F/8 could make the difference.

I cannot comment on the Sigma but an alternative to the Nikkor 70-300 zooms is the AF 75-300/4.5-5.6 (with tripod collar). As you're not into animal photography and don't like carrying a tripod (IMO a slow 400 mm lens is far too long to be hand-held - specially with the 1.5x crop factor of a DSLR) I'd consider looking at something in the 200 mm focal range (e.g. Nikkor AF 70-210/4 or even better at the 80-200/2.8 zooms).

Enjoy your lens and don't worry.

AS Hugh suggested, helicoils are the way to go (<A

href="http://www.boellhoff.de/web/germany/en/web.nsf/HTML/184D48AF7F9062D2C1256E1C002E066C">link: helicoil</A>). You'll find these repair kits in good (=professional) tool and automobile part stores.

I'm wondering on the exposure difference of 1/2 stop. I doubt that the 50/1.8 or the 50/1.4 are 1/2 stop off. In addition, it's logic that the 50/1.4 is at f/1.8 sharper than the 50/1.8 (though the contrast of the 1.8 looks in this shot more appealing to me) but what about f/4? For me the question is not which lens is sharper wide open to decide wether the 50/1.4 or the 50/1.8 should be first choice. The question for me is, do I need the faster glass at twice the price? In any case, you can't go wrong with either one.

Take a look at the Novoflex Q-Mount (EUR 59,-) it takes Arca Swiss plates (<A

href="http://www.novoflex.de/photokina-2004-txt/Q-MOUNT-co_ma_5.htm">link</A>). Adorama has it in stock for ~$80.

<i>"What size beanbag (weight / dimensions) are you recommending? Like the size of a sock?</i><br>

 

LOL Eddie. The size of the (homemade) bag I'm using is about 20x30 cm (approx. 50"x 76") and is filled with ~ 2 kg of long grain rice.

Eddie,

a good tripod with a good head will definitely help stabilize the camera. A good trick that works very well to reduce vibrations on a weak tripod, is putting a bean bag (or similar) on approx. the center of gravity of the lens camera combo. The effect is like resting the hand on the camera except that there're no vibrations induced by the pulse beat.

Thanks a lot!

Hi Paul,<br>

your best choice for keeping metering and AF with the D70 might be the Kenko Pro 300 converter. Here's the link to their homepage: <A href="http://www.thkphoto.com/products/kenko/slrc-01.html">Kenko PRO

300</A><br>

Regards.

Ilkka,<br>

very interesting review of the Burzynski lens collar. I was looking for pictures on the net what this specific lens collar looks like on the AF-S300 but haven't found any. Do you mind posting a sample?

<br><br>

Thanks.

<br>

Angel

<i> "...how hard did you tighten the head?</i><br>

until the water drops drop down... ;-)<br>

Andrew, don't get me wrong, when I bought the ball I was very happy with it and I think that the mini magic ball handles very nice a light camera with a small lens. I got into trouble, when I used it with a bigger lens (75-300, 300/4), the momentum induced by the camera's weight on the lens, acting as a lever arm, is just too high for the max. friction force that can be generated by tightening it. This is why now I'm more inclined to the bigger model and use it only with small primes. Nevertheless, Novoflex's service was exemplary (the repaired the ball head under warranty in only 4 days, shipping included).<br>

Regards and happy shooting

My mini Magic Ball started to creep after using it approx. 6 months with loads around 1.5 kgs (~3.3lbs). After sending it to Novoflex for service it started to creep again after only 3 weeks. Since it doesn't have friction control and the handle is very small, I find it very easy to unvoluntarily flip the lens down. Therefore, I'd recommend getting one of the bigger versions with friction control instead (or a Linhof Profi II).

The lens is prone to flare without the lens hood. You can put on the new Nikon 62mm "funky" lens caps without problems.<div></div>

The "O" stands for zero and indicates the middle of the ambient metering scale ("----0----"), the "A" tells you that aperture priority is selected. When you activate the flash, the metering scale for ambient exposure is displayed as it is in manual mode. It behaves the same way too(see p. 57 of your N80 guide for details).<br><br>

Have fun. ;-)

A look at this place might help to decide for the right one: <A

href="http://www.pictchallenge.com/vr70200v4.html">http://www.pictchallenge.com/vr70200v4.html</A><br><br>

 

Regards.

To me it looks like you were using a high magnification TC with this lens. If this is the case, I'd either remove the TC or use one with a smaller magnification.

You won't have any problem in Europe as long as you buy a product with Nikon USA warranty. The intl. warranty is valid for one year (see attachment). Living in Germany, I ordered last June from BH-Photo two Nikkors and had to pay 16% VAT and 6.7% of additional "photographic lens" tax.<br>

<br>

Happy shopping... ;-)

I don't own the card package anymore but on my filter (aprox. two years old) there's an "MRC" label engraved on it. Maybe you own a Kaesemann filter (the filter is directly labeled as "KSM") instead?