photoreu

I personally love shooting film. My biggest problem with it is the logistics required for negative storage, reprint orders, etc. It's just so much easier with digital! (to me). If I am ever approached to shoot a wedding with film I'd do it but I'd have to come up with a package where I just hand over the negatives.. I dont want the hassle of having to deal with negatives. With digital everything is instantly in order, I can choose which shots I want in b&w (and they stay in order), and all my reprint orders are FTP'd to the lab and drop shipped to the customer. What could be easier?

 

If I had more serious interest in shooting film for weddings then I'd definitely invest in a good scanner or have it done by the lab, and just continue post production digitally. But for me, for now, the DSLR fits the bill.

cover my travel and I'm there! :)

BTW just looked at the pics, and that's not your problem, you've got some great shots in there! As Mary said, the light is a little harsh/splotchy (the bane of florida photogs), but overall I think you did a good job.

 

One other thing I noticed is you are in way too tight in almost all of your posed shots. If they order enlargements you're going to start loosing arms and heads off the edges.

Most pro photogs in the Tampa area that I know (I'm from Tampa) are charging more than double your prices for reprints ($20-$30 for an 8x10). I did this for a friend once (lowered all my reprint pricing) and their initial reaction was "why so expensive?" then I told them what I normally charge and they ordered some prints :)

C JO doesnt that just drive you nuts? I'd hate to have my clients telling me how to shoot all the time. I dont mind a few requests, but if you're going to lay down rules for what style I'm to shoot in you'll be referred elsewhere :)

Derek's answer is always my favorite on these threads :)

"Who needs a bag?"

 

So far I've been using a Lowepro coputrekker backpack. I like it.. it's not too big and it holds my laptop.

 

I just got a porter case that i'm going to transition to as soon as I get my 70-200.

oops too late..

 

Extensis.. I've been eyeing that software for a long time... hmm...

Thanks for all the replies so far.. some really cool stuff here!

Suzanne, that's a great shot and really does show off the eyes.

 

Jon I want to know too.. that border is awesome!

I know this is a very broad question, but I want to hear it all. I'm

talking about making an image really stand out... (hint: this may be

subtle).

 

I know that too much of anything is not good, and I also understand

that there are people all over the board when it comes to what

is "acceptable." Over the years of digital progression I have come a

long way in my thinking. I used to be somewhat of a purist but now I

say anything goes as long as it's tastefully done. So lets hear it,

what are your favorite things to do to an image? Whether it be

preparing it for a big print, putting an album together, whatever.

I'd also like to hear what you dont like so much, and why?

 

I've noticed I really like the look of sloppy borders, vignetting,

playing with high key/contrasty images, extra saturated colors or

maybe almost all the saturation removed. I've also seen some cross-

processed looks that are seriously cool.

 

It's wierd because some of my favorite things can also really turn me

off if they're over-done, etc.

 

Anyway, just curious what everyone else likes, doesnt like, and why...

my 1st suggestion: Post the link! ;-)

before you start messing with filters, just ask your lab to print the pics warmer for you. A good lab will nail the skin tones every time.

I agree with Grant.. I'd get the 24-70. It's an awesome lens. Some people complain about it's size and weight, but it doesnt bother me at all. It *might* be wide enough for most of your day, but if you're ever forced into a situation where you must go wider, you've got your kit lens to bail you out. Also, if you can squeeze out the extra $75 bucks for a 50 1.8, I'd do it, it's a great little lens.

if the material is really super reflective, you'll have a really tough time with on camera flash. If you can, shoot available light as much as possible.. If you are completely forced to use flash, bounce as much as possible or move the flash away from the camera. I've seen some makeup do the same thing.. scary!

as everyone else has said, it depends on a few things.. how many MP, RAW or jpeg, etc, etc.

 

I decided to go with 1 and 2 GB cards for my 20D. I shoot in the fine jpg setting. Yes that's a lot of shots on one card, but I figure I'm less likely to loose one if I only carry 3 or 4 cards, vs other photographers I know who try to keep track of 10+ cards at a wedding. Plus the upgradeability factor.. I wont have to upgrade to bigger cards for quite some time (hopefully never).

Flash on camera, omnibounce, always bounced.

Really cool Stacy and Carl.

 

You are better at cloning things out than me :-) (I thought you would be...)

 

Is that really a tulip in her hair? It's really big! ...and looks like a rose... If it is a tulip what kind is it? (I'm not being sarcastic I really dont know much about flowers)

oh and dial in +/- FEC as needed

I agree with Jammey, they look like you are relying heavily on flash for exposure. The general rule is set your camera in manual, expose the background at 1-2 stops under (or less) and let the flash provide the rest. Your flash will work less hard (recycle faster, batteries will last longer) and your pictures will look better. I'm usually at about 1/30-1/60 f/1.8-3.5 ISO 400 or 800.. all depending on the ambient light levels.

Hey Aaron,

 

A lot is going to depend on where you get to sit re: if you'll be close enough. I'd use the lens wide open on AV to get the highest shutter speed available while still getting correct exposures (or better yet, use the camera on Manual so it's not fooled by the bright stadium lights.

 

I went to a minor league game last week... it started before sundown.. I found that once the sun was completely down and we were just under the lights there wasnt enough light to get a high enough shutter speed. I was using a 28-135 IS though... still saving for that 70-200 2.8 IS. :) I dont have the image specs with me since I'm at work but I'm sure it was shot at f5.6 in AV, ISO probably 800 or 1600, just before the sun set.

 

(sorry about the size, dont have software to make it under 512 pixels wide at work..)<div></div>

Or sitting on it?

 

I do like it as it is though. I fear that cloning out such a large object would be really difficult and look funny (for me anyway).

 

Are there any bigger creeks or rivers around? Not sure if your model or dress would be willing, but a bit more water with a full reflection and a more open background (like shooting down so mostly water is in the background) would look great too.

 

It was great to see your concept realized, I think you have some great shots here!

Oh and in response to Steve.. you carry more than one camera on you so that you can have quick access to different focal lengths, B&W or color (if you shoot film), flash or no flash, etc etc. I shoot fast, if I had to go back to my camera case that many times throughout the day I'd go nuts (and miss lots of shots). This way I can switch back and forth between them very quickly. I can see how it would be quite cumbersome with brackets on all your equipment though (I hate brackets).

 

I do put one camera down for the formals, but for the rest of the day, I've got two.

Wide angle in hand, ready to shoot, strap wraped around my hand (I like doing a lot of overhead shots at the reception so a strap around my neck gets in the way, long lens hangs off my right shoulder. To switch I through the wide angle over my left shoulder and start shooting away with the long lens.. back and forth. If I'm shooting with a long lens a lot I'll put the strap around my neck and leave the wide angle hanging off my shoulder.

hehe.. it's always funny when someone takes a joke seriously...

 

So BB, where are you located? Maybe someone local here on the board could help you out or give you advice about a specific venue, etc...

I second the recommendation to get the 20D. Its a great camera and what you would want (over the 350D) if you're thinking about doing more weddings.

"yes I did state I would be using a tripod"

 

...sorry I dont see where. Anyway, if you're worried about subject movement it simply depends on how still they are. I've seen some beautiful portraits that were 6+ second exposures. Of course your subject has to be fully aware that they CANNOT move.. In the early days of photography you had to have a really long shutter speed just to get a proper exposure. So if they're posed, and aware that they need to sit still, 1/30th will definitely not be a problem with regard to subject movement. If ambient light levels are really really low and you use a flash that will do a great job of freezing the subject too.. but you probably know all of this.

 

As far as hand holdability and mirror slap like I said I'm not really familiar with shooting medium format, or your camera in particular, so I'd just go by what Marc said... he seems to know just a wee bit about this photography stuff ;-)