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dermot_conlan4

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Posts posted by dermot_conlan4

  1. What do you intend to shoot? You already have Pentax lenses.

    Bronica ummm are they still invested in the future of any of their

    SLR systems?

    Pentax offers lenses from 35mm to 600mm, including 7 zooms

    they offer AF but you can use your MF lenses on the older and

    newer 645N11 bodies, mirror lock up is available, a 120 1:1

    Marco, a wide AF 35mm, no need to buy an AE prism it's all

    included, You can find a polaroid back if you need one but they

    are costly, yes sync speed is slow but they offer a 75 and a 150

    lens that syncs to 1/500th. Pentax is still offering new

    lenses...Bronica ??? I've shoot tons of paying jobs using my

    Dyna Lites and shutter speeds of 1/60th, with active kids try

    using 35mm.

    If you shoot weddings where you need 1//250th flash sync then

    look elsewhere, if you want one of the best field cameras

    available then stick with the Pentax.

  2. Why ditch a jewel and buy another? Save your money and buy a

    Pentax 645N or Contax 645 if you really need Zeiss lenses. All

    this Hassey stuff is over-rated, great marketing hype...First they

    convinced a lot of people that the Square was the ultimate

    format then they go and make a "Fujiblad "in what format , 645!!

    Hey the world see's in rectangles, art directors will crop your

    square. All these MF lenses are on a par right now and unless

    you are looking at chromes under a microscope you'll see no

    difference....yeah I know you are not convinced.

  3. I have them both and I carry either one or the other depending on what I'm doing. As the 120 is heavier I carry the 150 when traveling overseas and throw in some ext tubes. At home when traveling by car I put both in my bag and pick which ever suits the job at hand. I do some location portrait work and again I bring both. So it's easy for travel, or hiking a mountain the 150+tubes when driving with no weight restrictions both or just the 120.

    Of course what works for me may not for you.

  4. For my use mostly landscape, travel, people, stock photography . A 55mm and 150mm are most used followed closely by 35mm and 300mm with the 120mmm 1:1 Macro rounding it out. Later added tubes and 1.4xc. Tilt and shift seems like something I'd add after covering most of the bases.
  5. Interesting, I was in Newtonville several months ago handling a

    Leica 80-200 f4 R lens with a dent in the barrel, price $1200. The

    best prices I don't know, from what a friend tells me if you know

    this guy (Mike) then maybe you get a better deal. I would call first

    and make ad eal over the phone, if you walk into the store cold

    it's small and a few customers make it seem busy...you may mot

    get access to the manager. I don't doubt anything said here, I

    went in as an unknown and I knew I could do better elsewhere

    just not in Boston.

  6. Have an F100 for the weekend with a 35mm f2D, I'm getting a

    FEE readout and shutter does not function. According to manual

    if (CPU) lens is locked at f2 this shoud not happen, is there a set

    proceedure ? Any help appreciated.

  7. Seeing as this lens is not yet readily available that's hard to

    answer. The 1.4x was designed for and works well with the

    300mm f4 and it says this on the converter but also can be used

    with the 120 Macro, 150 f2.8, 200f4, 400 f5.6 and 600 f5.6. For

    wildlife you'll need the 600mm or have to carry 35mm as well,

    you can make images of larger animals within a landscape with

    the shorter lenses. I'm sure other here will give opinions but you

    need to figure out what type of nature/wildlife you will do (birds

    will be difficult) putting a 1.4x on a 5.6 lens will make it f8 add any

    filtrarion and you are looking into a dim finder. The 2x works with

    lenses from 35-600mm but I have not used.

  8. There's a good view above Cashel on the way out of town or, in

    depending on if you are going north or south. If you go into town

    there's a parking area close by so you can roam around . You

    can also drive down the road past it (it's elevated) and find a

    spot to shoot from behind, this works for afternoon early evening

    light. And hey yes the weather is fickle but the light changes

    constantly and you can be lucky and get a great day. Avoiding the

    tour groups is the biggest problem . You can crawl around in the

    fields below most of the farmer's will not mind too much if you

    are respectful.

  9. 38 , 60 CB//CF (same formula CB cheaper) 100 CF, 120 CFI,

    180CF, 250SA CF, 350SA CF.

    Look for a 501 cm body it has the Gliding Mirror (no cut off with

    lenses of 150 and over) and is reasonably priced right now.

     

    Or better still save your money and but a Mamiya RZ, lenses are

    as good at much better prices.

  10. Pentax just introduced their first digital SLR it's not full frame

    costs more than than the Nikon D100 and Canon's 10D and

    from all reports is not as good. To think they could produces a

    full frame 645 digiatal back for $3 or $6K is a pipe dream. But

    hey with Pentax sometimes that's all you have.

  11. You should be fine at those temps, I assume you are carrying spare batteries anyway.I used the model you have two years ago in Vermont in Feb in single digits for several hours without a problem, Pentax does makes a cold weather pack but only for the N/N11. Common sense, the longer you are out the weaker the batteries will become but depends on the temp 32F is not that bad.
  12. The Bronica and the Hasselblad are both capable of

    professional results in the right hands. I don't believe that Zeiss

    is any better than Pentax , Mamiya or Bronica. Each company

    has some standouts but they are in my estimation pretty close.

    I've used most everything out there in MFand there's no magic

    genie, buy what you can afford and shoot lots of film that's what

    will make you a better photographer. Remember the square will

    end up cropped to 645 if sent for publication, if you are shooting

    for yourself and want to make square fine art prints then it does

    not matter.

  13. There's not much difference in the quality of the lenses both

    systems are capable of professional results in the right hands.

    The problem you face with Grads is that with the wide angle

    lenses need to use a Center Filter (with 72,90 and 105) closest

    to the lens for it to be effective. Then you add your grads or

    warming filters, Linhof front elements are bigger than Fuji's. For

    example Linhof's 90xl needs a center filter M95 x m110, your

    front element is going to be 110 mm...cokin cannot help you

    here. You need a custom mount which LEE filters can make for

    you or you can tape the filters in place with gaffer's tape. You

    need to be creative with the Grads learn to place them by

    experimenting.

    The Fuji front elelments are smaller and a Ground Glass is

    available to help with filter position.

  14. Have you tried to calibrate your meter? Set the f stop to 16 and

    the shutter speed to 1/60th and ASA at 50. point your camera at a

    blue morning sky (around 10AM) about 40/50 degrees above

    horizon (on a tripod helps). Now try to get your meter to give you

    a correct reading adjust it by using the ASA dial. So if set to 40

    ASA gives correct meter reading use Velvia at 40 in this camera

    body, conversely if 80 ASA gives correct meter reading then

    Velvia should be set to 80 for this body and so on .

    If I'm not bang on here I'm sure someone will jump in and correct

    me.

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