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john_calafut

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Posts posted by john_calafut

  1. <p>When the lab I use for optical prints advised me that they were out of Supra Endura, they offered me the option of either Crystal Archive C or Supra VC. I requested a contact sheet of each in glossy surface from my set of Pro160C negatives. The Supra VC had less contrast (not necessarily objectionable), but it had a slight greenish tint, reminding me of the effect fluorescent lighting has when corrective filters aren't used.<br>

    The Crystal Archive C had more contrast, more neutral color, and sharpness appeared better - possibly due to the higher contrast. I ordered a couple enlargements on this paper, which came out fine - with the high quality I've come to expect from optical prints. My intention was to specify this paper going forward, but after reading in Steven's post above that type C is gone, it sounds like I'm back to square one. :-(</p>

  2. <p>TLRs are a great way to get into MF, and in my opinion they offer value beyond being a stepping stone to other MF types. My introduction to MF was with a TLR eight years ago, and now a Mamiya with a modest assortment of lenses continues to meet all the needs I have for a camera.</p>
  3. <p>Kat, I go through the mail. I request contact sheets for review, select those frames I want enlarged, then send the negatives back for printing. Sometimes for expedience I get the negatives developed locally. If you are confident of your negatives, you can skip the contact sheet and leave the rest to Praus' judgement. I like to maximize my involvement, however.<br>

    I haven't tried Superior Custom Color, but they sound interesting too.</p>

  4. <p>I agree with Patrick - I haven't seen a color digital enlargement that matches what optical is capable of. But I diverge from him a bit in that I pay more for optical. The cost is justified by the quality, and for me it is definitely worth it.<br>

    Praus Productions in Rochester NY has been giving me great results. It's worth a try at least once if you've never had optical prints made. Film and optical printing evolved together, and still produce the best results that I have been able to achieve.</p>

  5. I've been using a Mamiya C330f for several years now with excellent results pictorally,

    but in my collection of four lenses there always seems to be one or another that is "getting

    sticky". My feeling is that it seems I always have one out for CLA, or am carefully watching

    for the signs of needing it. Now, for instance, the fall foliage season is showing signs of beginning

    here in Connecticut, but my 250mm only fires on the second attempt, and if I send it out, the

    season will probably be over or past peak when I get it back. Frustrating...

     

    From my records I can see a 3 or 4 year time between CLAs per lens, but since

    the lenses need it at staggered times, I have a constant feeling of Deja-vu about having them

    serviced.

     

    Can anyone tell me if this is typical of leaf shutters? or in this case, Seiko leaf shutters?

    Should they go longer between CLAs?

    I "exercize" the lenses regularly, and I guess I just get a little dismayed every time I have to send

    another one out.

     

    Regards,

     

    John

  6. Don't forget that polarizers have their least effect on the sky when pointed directly toward or away from the sun. The maximum effect is in a direction 90 degrees away from the direction of the sun. Also, if the sky is totally filled with clouds and white, there will be little effect.
  7. I haven't heard much about Mamiya bellows going bad from normal wear.

    They just extend straight out and back in, without any tilts, shifts or swings that seem to put a little extra stress on large format camera bellows. Outside of abuse or mishap, they seem to last just fine. My Mamiya C330f dates from the '70's or '80's at the latest, and aside from having checked out the bellows when I bought it four years ago, I have rarely thought about it since. Jochen is right about the advantage it provides in minimum working distance.

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