wickedmartini

The stain that you refer to is a sensitizing dye that has not been removed from the film. It can at times be an indication of an incomplete fix or wash. More often than not, the wash is the culprit. Make sure that your fixer is not beyond it's use or contaminated in any way. Watch your wash water temp and make sure that you have good water circulation. Unless your water is of extremely poor qulity--ph, hardness, deposits, etc.--a good 20-30 minute wash @ 65-75 degrees should do the trick. Also, as mentioned above, Phot-Flo should help you to reduce water spots and streaking and also helps to reduce drying issues like differential drying.

I hope that helps!

Michael D. D'Avignon

I have experimented with printing on Azo and the results can be very interesting if not unique. I have an old 23CII XL. I just opened up the lens a bit and the exposures were not too horribly long. It can have a very rich look to it and I found that I like the way it reacts to various toners as well.

Have fun! It's worth a shot...

Michael D. D'Avignon

Any accessories for the Nikon N60 should be more than suitable.

Michael D. D'Avignon

FujiFilm e-Systems

mdavignon@fujifilmesys.com

Recommended corrections for Fujichrome Provia 100f and 400f are as follows:

100f:

1/4000sec. to 128sec = No correction.

4min. = + 1/3 stop +2.5G

400f:

1/4000sec. to 32sec. = No correction

64sec. = +2/3 stop +5G

2-4min. = +1 stop +7.5G

Keep in mind that these recommendations are a starting point and many factors will come into play here--film storage, lighting, your lab, etc.

I hope this helps you! Have fun!

Michael D. D'Avignon

FujiFilm USA

mdavignon@fujifilmesys.com

From my experience, you may be able to get away with this. The issue to look out for down the line is bromide drag. Technidol also works very differently than most standard developers and almost "feeds" off of the development process. The rotary process can detract from this. Why not just use another developer?

Michael D. D'Avignon

The pinkish cast that your are describing is nothing more than a retained sensitizing dye. More often than not, it is an indication that the film has not been sufficiently washed. In some cases, where heavier casts are present, it may be an indication of insufficient fixing. A light cast should not adversely effect printing. You may want to go back and try a re-wash and certainly a hypo clearing agent or eliminator wouldn't hurt.

Hope that helps!

Michael D. D'Avignon

I have run two or three rolls of the Maco IR through my Holga so far and with fairly impressive results. I have a 25 Red filter thread mounted to the front of a Holga flash model and most of the body gets wrapped with foil and tape to prevent any light leaks. The combination of the IR effects and that classic Holga quality have been quite inspiring. I would recommend trying it--especially if you are a Holga lover.

Have fun!

Michael D. D'Avignon

My guess is that the stain is the result of either residual fixer or possibly your intensification solution--depending on what was used. At this point you are already seeing the result of that residual and odds are very umlikely that you will be abble to reverse it. I would try a re-wash of the negatives and maybe a quick hypo clearing agent or eliminator before hand. Good luck!

Michael D. D'Avignon

The keys to long term dark storage are: cool and dry. Our recommendations for storage are listed below.

Exposure to light, high temperature and humidity can

cause color changes in processed films. Therefore,

place such films in sleeves and store in dark, dry, cool

and well ventilated locations under the following conditions.

º General Storage: 25°C (77°F) at 30 to 60% RH

º Long-term Storage: 10°C (50°F) at 30 to 50% RH

NOTE As with all color dyes, those used in this film will discolor

or fade with time.

I hope this helps you>

Michael D. D'Avignon

FujiFilm USA

mdavignon@fujifilmesys.com

Ryan,

The processing times listed above are certainly an excellent starting point and most seem very consistent with our own data. A reasonable starting point for a 1 stop pull would be approximately -10%. I would also take into consideration a few factors: subject matter; how you exposed for that subject; and last but not least the old zone system motto of exposing for your shadows and developing for your highlights.

I hope this is of some help to you.

Michael D. D'Avignon

FujiFilm USA

mdavignon@fujifilmesys.com

my first inclination would be dichroic fog as well. Watch for any cross contamination of chemistry and make sure that your chemical tanks, developing tank and reels do not have any chemical buildup or residue. In some cases in can be very difficult to remove from processed and dried film.

Michael D. D'Avignon