david choo

Hehe Leonard, thank you for the help.

 

Oh and I actually do use a Large Format View Camera on occasion. ;)

Thanx Steve... that gives me a better idea. Provided its the correct equation. Well seems that f8 is more then i need to carry DOF. Although shallow DOF shots of a person seem only possible now at 200mm. :P

Hi everyone. Had a question thats been confusing me. I wanted to

purchase a point and shoot type Digital camera like a Canon Pro 1 or

Minolta A2 but am confused about one point.

 

How to phrase this...

 

Say with a 16mm lens in 35mm format, you have a certain amount of

depth of field at say f16... which usually covers just about

everything possible... whereas on a 300mm lens in 35mm format, f16

may not carry the DOF all the way through to where you want it.

 

Now with the Canon Pro 1, I noticed its smallest depth of field is

f8... which made me a bit worried... and the widest it opens is f2.4.

So anyone know the equivelants in terms of depth of field as compared

to 35mm film cameras?

 

I know my question has been put out here in a very strange way, but

I'm incredibly tired from a week of shooting the wilderness and would

like to order one of these cameras to take with me on my next shoot

in 2 days... but if they wont carry DOF, i figure i'll just stick

with my Film cameras.

 

Thanx everyone. =)

 

Deep depth of field is crucial to me.

HAHA Puppy beat me to it. I never go on a shoot for myself without a large bottle of scotch and some good beef jerky. =)

 

Ok another thing i dont go without is some masking tape or artists tape. I roll it around a pen. It comes in handy.

 

What i do forget often is my light meter. :P

Oops forgot to answer one question. Yes the Eos 5 has a pc socket for strobes. =)

I'll explain it Bob. =)

 

Sometimes when the shutter sticks, a small portion of the curtain distorts and pops out of the shutter area towards the film plane for a short while. Then it pops back in. When the condition is REALLY bad, its obvious because there are blacked out portions on the film itself. But before it gets that far, the shutter does its weird distort thing then goes back to normal during the process, which im "GUESSING" could cause movement in the pressure plate or film, but moves out of the way quickly enough to allow light for an exposure.

 

But again, i was just speculating. Bob's idea that the pressure plate spring is tired is very possible. I've had bad pressure plates before and remember the softness.

 

I just mentioned the 10s shutter problem because I remember how the shutter would warp.

Forget about the 3... focus on the glass and the legs. I've actually sold my 3 and am about to sell my 1V to get a 7n. I don't see why i'd need more then the 7n has to offer. Some photographers however NEED the options that the 3 and 1V offer. (Sports, Action, Wildlife) With what you shoot, you don't NEED those options. =) And i'm certain you could do sports, action, with the 7n. The 3 is a waste of your money. Seriously.

 

I say, buy the new lenses and save a little more and get the tripod. A good tripod mind you. Glass is what will help you realize your photographic vision. :D

The only problem i've ever found with the EOS 5 is the command dial breaking... which is a relatively simple fix at a Canon repair facility.

 

The 5 didnt have the tar problem on their shutters.

 

$300 is an "ok" deal. It's not great, not bad.

 

Oh... i once had a problem with the shutter release on an Canon A2 (Same as the 5, almost) where I had to press the shutter release with a ton of pressure to get the camera to fire.

 

When buying the camera, check the pressure plate. Make sure it looks to be in good condition. Check to see if theres any sign of someone having attempted to clean the mirror, like streaks on the mirror. Thats a bad sign.

 

And now that you'll be shooting film.... SLOW it down. =) Think through each shot. They each cost money. Make them count.

Take a look at your shutter mechanism. Is there a tar like looking goo on it? Maybe that has something to do with it. The Canon 10/10s was famous for this tar problem. It can be cleaned professional, or if done with delicate hands and the proper solvents. I've owned many 10s' and on a couple of them, I cleaned the shutter mechanism (VERY carefully and Gently, taking a LOT of time) and they worked just fine.

 

I found that the shutter at times, would lock up or twist in a strange way during exposures because of the gunk, which maybe would push the film back. Who knows why its doing what it's doing. But check your shutter is my best guess.

Get the Super HMC, its worth the extra $5. But only in extreme situations will there be a difference between the S-HMC and the HMC.

 

Standard 77mm filter will work fine on your Canon 20-35. Canon wide lenses are made to fit one regular filter without vignetting. Although if you like to stack filters, you could probably do two slim line filters without vignetting.

 

Hope this helps. =)

I purchased a Canon 10D a while ago from buydig.com. Had them overnight mail it. They did. Experience was great. It was the first time I veered away from BH or Adorama.

I use a Gitzo 1410 with a Kirk Bh-1 heard. I sometimes mount 15-20 pounds without any problems. I personally like the fact that its a lot heavier then a carbon fiber version. That's always been the whole point to me. Maybe i'm crazy.

Hi everyone. Not sure if this is the forum to put this in.

 

Have an upcoming trip that will roughly be a month of hiking, driving

through the western National Parks of the US.

 

Anyone know if I can purchase some type of insurance plan for the

month I'm out there that covers me from theft?

For that specific setup, lowepro minitrekker.

Used d60, or used d30 would be decent backups. Bet you could get a used d30 for $400 or so. Would give you better overall results then a G5. Being that you're a digital shooter, and probably want to keep it that way, I don't think film would work well with what you're doing.

Don't waste your time with the 3. Spend your money on good lenses. The body is just a light tight box... the lenses are what matter most. Unless you do some type of high speed, sports like photography, the 3 is a waste of your dollars as a high school graduate.

Mike, honestly, I think you should tell them you don't shoot these types of pictures. There is a plethora of things you need to learn in order to do this effectively. Lighting ratios, shadow densities, color balance, etc. Not to mention the amount of range you use in lighting and how it will apply to the press that will stamp out the catalogs or whatever they will be using.

 

But if you feel confident enough with your abilities, buy a book on simple lighting. You'll need at least two high powered lights, three being preferable. And shoot away. Its fun. :D

If you go to my picture album, check out the Absolut Vanilia shot, thats at roughly 1/3000th to 1/4000th of a second.

Water splashes all are dependant on how much film the movement is covering... the plane at which it is moving, direction, speed etc. For simple water drops covering maybe 5-10% of the frame, for a full freeze, you'd need about 1/2000th of a second. You could probably get a blurred partial freeze at 1/500th. (These are all very rough numbers being that we dont know XYZ axis and movement.)

 

Some shots require 1/5000th or more for full freeze. This is usually the case in larger splashes or movements. I've actually had things blurry at nearly this flash duration when covering 50%+ of the frame.

 

And then there are some that require 1/30,000th of a second or faster... which I've only found possible with hand held flash units linked up together and slaved. I've never tried to freeze something this fast, but I've seen some shots that used this speed duration, and they were absolutely frozen tack sharp.

 

Hope this helps.

Get a card reader. They're very cheap and will make your file transfer MUCH MUCH MUCH faster.

Hi everyone.

 

I'm looking for a variety of infrared/sound either/or/and devices

that allow me to trigger my strobe equipment for motion.

 

I often do motion photography where I need precise triggering of my

strobe as the motion occurs or a while after.

 

Example: Hammer breaking lightbulb, bottle dropping into fishtank.

 

Anyone have any suggestions on a cost effective trigger?

 

I burn way too much 4x5 film and props doing this stuff with my

reflexes. :P

In English? :D

 

Because I didn't understand most of what anyone said. :(

I've often wondered the same thing. Human eyes aren't capable of beyond 11 stops right?

Try putting a rubber band around the filter and turning it.

I used my Canon EOS 3 with the PB-E1 booster. Worked great. Had a vertical shutter release and squeezed off 6 frames per second.

 

I don't believe there is anything else that you could attach to the Eos 3 for vertical shutter release.