david choo

After giving it some thought, I'm beginning to wonder whether the "cable release" port was

ever intended to be used with a pocket wizard?

Hi everyone! I recently had an issue during a shoot that I could not figure out... when shooting with our

H2... using the waist level finder... I connected a pocket wizard (pocket wizard was reset to factory default

settings) via proper pocket wizard cable... to fire the strobe setup we had going.

Strangely... there was no flash sync... the strobes always fired early or late, not really sure which.

Tried using different delay settings and it didn't help. Tried using different cables... didn't help... I'm

starting to think it was some camera setting that was changed...

As soon as I put the prism on the H2 and connected the pocket wizard to the hot shoe instead of via a

cable, all was fine and we had strobe sync.

Any ideas as to what could be causing this problem? Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated!

Anyone know what happened to the guy that runs this site and company? He doesn't respond

to emails.

In a recent but previous question, I asked about converting a 5D or perhaps purchasing a Fuji S3 UVIR.

I got some great responses, particularly from Bob Atkins so I searched the web for companies that convert

cameras to IR.

I found a place that converts Canon Pro1 cameras. As I own one that just collects dust, I thought it might

be a great idea to convert it to IR instead of spending wads of cash on a new camera system specifically

for IR.

Does anyone have any experience with a Canon Pro1 converted for IR only? I'd love to hear anything you

know about it or heard of it.

I'm particularly interested in whether people know conversion companies that also adjust the autofocus...

But also very importantly... whether the lens on the Pro1 creates hot spots.

Thanks!

Hi. Was wondering if anyone has experience with an infrared converted Canon 5D or the new Fuji S3 UVIR.

I'm interested in purchasing a camera just for infrared but not sure which I should go with but the camera

can be dedicated to pure IR as I shoot with a MarkII and an H2D so really don't need another regular digital

camera.

I own all Canon gear in small format.. however as the Canon lenses I own all create "Hot Spots" according

to various websites... I'll have to purchase new lenses to go with the infrared camera so I'm open an

Infrared Digital Camera of any kind.

Whereas I've found sites that talk about the Canon 5D or Canon cameras in general... and how they

convert them to infrared while also adjusting the autofocus to work with IR, I've found so very little in

terms of information about the Fuji S3 UVIR.

Matter of factly, I'm getting the impression that the Fuji S3 UVIR requires filtration on the lenses... That

would automatically keep me from purchasing it.. however I am not certain of this.

Any suggestions... information is appreciated. :)

I recently threw away a half dozen Lexar cards because we were getting corrupt files... we

purchased a bunch of Sandisk Extreme IV cards and didnt have a problem for months. We

use them heavily... and fill a card up in minutes. The problems subsided and we were

happy and said, I HATE LEXAR. Then the Sandisk cards started having problems...

We figured out what was causing the problems....

It was our CARD READER. :)

We never have problems with our Sandisk IV Extreme card reader... but we figured out

whenever we used this other brand card reader we had occasional problems.

However... in your particular situation... I'd say theres some problem in your camera or

how its interfacing with the Sandisk cards.

I use both lenses. The 24-70mm lens is sharper and it gives you less vignettin at f4 then

the 24-105 IS lens. The 24-70mm lens is better in every aspect, but like every other lens...

NOT BY MUCH. Only time you'll notice is wide open.

For the one that made the comment that the difference between f2.8 and f4 is nothing...

it's a whole lot... its easier to focus... the Canon AF moves faster... etc etc... and there are

situations where f4 just wont cut it.

All in all... each has their advantadge. I use the 24-70mm for commercial work... then

24-105mm for fun or when I travel.

If you're a working professional, a backup body is of great importance... however with the many many many Canon cameras I've owned, I've never had one stop working, in all the perilous situations and harsh weather conditions my equipment and that of many colleagues has been in, I've never really heard of Canon EOS cameras failing.

Having said that, there have been a multitudes of times where I said, "God I wish I had this lens with me, or that lens with me." It is a rare rare day when I say, "God I wish I had a backup body that creates lower quality images then my primary body with me!"

;)

The Hassie with any current digital back shoots files that are 50 megs to 100 megs in size.

Much larger then the files made by current DSLRs.

The whole push was to be able to write to CF cards instead of being tethered to a drive.

Technology seems to be moving in that direction.

However of all the commercial photographers i know, me included, we've gotten so used

to a workflow of using an imagebank that the idea of going to CF cards is a bit frowned

upon. No to mention i've had maybe half a dozen CF cards fail on me in the last 2 years...

then again I've had an image bank fail as well.

As to the answer to your question Mitch, I have no clue, but if you find a way, would love

to know about it.

Gaffers tape bad idea. :) It gets sticky and the residue is very difficult to remove. Eventually

though it dries out into dust. And this goes for the supposed "real" gaffers tape as well.

I have dozens of Cstands and tripods that have gaffers tape that has dried down. It all ends

up the same... sticky then a ugly dusty thing happens to the glue.

What Bob said. LOL I controlled my urge to close the page about 5 times during the thing...

and found myself going "HEY! WAIT" as the images dissapeared in a nanosecond.

It's the best thing to be found right now. A few fixed lenses are better but not by much. The

20mm lens I had left me wanting more... my 16-35mm L seemed to outdo it. I was

contemplating going to a fixed wide angle setup... but the extra weight and inconvenience of

having to switch lenses turned me off to the idea.

It does get a bit soft at the extreme ends of FSTOP.

I used to wonder the truth of what lenses might be better... after many years of using lots

of them professionally, I have found that Zeiss lenses truly are superior to most other

lenses I've used. They have better flare control and are sharper... they also seem to create

more natural contrast.

I don't however shoot Zeiss anymore... I use Canon glass... and Hasselblads new Fuji glass

for the H2. They may not be all that a Zeiss lens is in image quality (they are pretty damn

close though) but they BETTER serve to create my photographic vision. Vision first...

equipment second.

Your setup sounds great for what you're doing. If you want something to carry around

your equipment with more ease, look into Tamrac or Lowepro camera bags. Outside of

that, you have everything you need for what you're going to do. Don't buy a bunch of

equipment you'll never use nor know how to use.

I've seen people do this... and instead of focusing on their art, they focus on their

equipment... which makes their art suffer.

Maybe you want a tripod? But if it slows you down too much, don't bother. A Wider lens

might be fun as well, but again... only if it helps make your vision into reality.

13 gigs of memory sounds like plenty. I'd be really surprised if you shot more then 13 gigs

during 4 days.

As for your memory card reader question. It is "BEST" to use a card reader to download a

memory card. :)

Have fun Jane! Hope you'll show us the end result!

The size of the file changes as you shoot depending on various factors and how much

compression is possible.

If I were in your shoes, I'd get more CF cards, and a way to backup these cards on site. I'd

also shoot raw personally, but thats just personal choice as I sometimes fear missing an

exposure... and raw would help with that considerably.

I would not put all my images on one card. I actually prefer not putting more then maybe

50-70 images on each card and switching them out as I move. I've had cards fail... my

career would be put into jeopardy if i had shot an entire shoot on one card and lost that

card. Back in the film days, my career would be put in jeopardy if I processed all my film at

once and had the lab make a mistake and ruin it ALL. Back in the film days, it would have

been split into 2 to 3 processing times in case one batch came out bad.

Back to digital, as I'm shooting I would backup the cards onto backup drive of some type

and store the cards without formatting them until I could double check the existance of

the imagery during post.

Losing the clients images is bad bad bad! :)

Few things to try...

I'm guessing you're shooting in Raw? If so, I'd suggest trying to process out your raw files in

the AdobeRGB colorspace... if you still exhibit the same problems try processing in the

"ProPHOTO" colorspace. It could help alleviate your issue.

Important thing is to make sure that if you are shooting, you are not doing so in the sRGB

colorspace.

I used to have an issue with the old Canon 10s. The shutter would get stuck at certain shutter

speeds and part of the film wouldn't be exposed properly. Perhaps you have a faulty shutter?

I own Style 600s and have synced them on a 10D and 1Ds. Never had any problems. If you

can though, getting a pocket wizard combo will make your life much happier. :)

Certain lighting conditions on certain surfaces create moire in just about every digital

imaging chip made today... unless you were shooting with say... an Imacon 528c back and let

it do its multi exposure (to help rid yourself of moire) bracket sequence.

When experiencing moire... try moving the light or the subject around a bit. If that doesn't

work, in most, just do a mask of the area that exhibits moire in Photoshop, then CLONE in

COLOR mode... helps rid you of moire... it does flatten out the color a bit as well though.