david choo

<p>I didn't vignette with a regular thickness polarizer on my 16-35mm I lens... didn't realize you would vignette with a regular polarizer on the II lens. <br>

What a strange way to build a lens. Can anyone confirm a regular polarizer will cause vignetting at 16mm on the II lens?<br>

Hey Tien... they actually do make slim filters with front threads... expensive but they are made. I just wish I didn't have to spend $200 a filter.</p>

<p>Vignette with a standard polarizer at 16mm?! Wow... that's good information to know. Guess I have to purchase slim polarizer and slim stackable filters.<br>

I don't remember the I series of this lens doing this. What an odd design.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Hey everybody.<br>

I have been looking for a 6 stop ND filter in 82mm and 77mm. Found the 77mm version in B+W but can't seem to find it in 82mm.<br>

I also am considering a 4x4 version for my Lee Filter Holder but am curious if anyone has any experience with a 6 stop ND filter in that size. I require maximum resolution and am hoping there is a high quality glass filter that will fit my needs.<br>

Definitely don't want to nor can I double stack filters. Vignette issues. <br>

Any suggestions? :)<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Ask yourself these questions....<br>

In terms of your workflow, which is better?<br>

Do you shoot raw or jpeg?<br>

Do you need higher ISO?<br>

If I was a wedding photographer I would probably shoot JPEG only for the sake of workflow and storage... allowing me to shoot higher resolutions... RAW is just not possible at 1000+ shots a day.... unless you're making $10K a wedding and don't care about storage... but then if you did make that you'd probably have 3-4 5d Mk IIs... sorry tangent...<br>

I'd probably want the highest ISO ability possible... I've shot a few weddings in my life before I became a commercial guy... and there just never seems to be enough usable light.<br>

5D Mk II has that cool dust vibrating gizmo that eliminates most dust every time you turn off the camera... that alone is worth thousands... and many hours in post.<br>

As for pure resolution... I really don't think 99.9% of clients have any real understanding of the difference between a photo shot on a 13 megapixel camera and a 21 megapixel camera... seriously even blown up 30x40... most simply aren't knowledgeable enough... and as the person being shot... I don't really know that I want to be able to see every pore on my face...<br>

And let's not get into the fact that most lenses won't resolve 21 megapixels too well... and if are using lenses that can... it doesn't matter... you're shooting handheld, you're never gonna use all 21 megapixels....<br>

So my point... don't look at it in terms of megapixels (not that you were, but a lot of people do as if megapixels will change their life) look at workflow, ISO, focus speed and ability...<br>

Hmm I just realized why a lot of wedding photographers have moved to the Nikon D3... and D700... lol... sorry.</p>

Ben

You WILL see a difference between the 1Ds Mk III and it's 12 and 16 megapixel rivals... In a professional environment, you WILL see a difference...

Art directors LOVE to crop... 12 megapixels... often even 16 megapixels... no matter how well processed... can turn out to be not enough.... I understand megapixels aren't everything but at this level... they do mean a whole lot....

The 1Ds MK III is the first camera in my professional opinion that can handle 90% of most commercial assignment work.

Canon glass... provided it is L series or prime lenses do a fine job of resolving enough for the sensor....

The bodies are extremely reliable in comparison to any other format I've ever used.

People would like to make you believe that you wont see much of a difference between this and a 5D are just plain wrong (provided you use the proper camera techniques).... from the higher resolving sensor to the 14 bit processing and cleaner noise profile... you'd see a rather sizable difference.... especially in detail, gradations and shadow noise....

Take it from someone that has used extensively all of Canon's professional and prosumer DSLRs in just about every environment, there IS a difference!

But if you really want quality... unsurpassable quality... get yourself an H3DII MS... nothing can touch it... the quality is simply astounding!

Tim...

Were you a CPS member before you sent in your camera?

Did you write CPS all over the box you sent in?

I've sent in different canon cameras as a CPS member at least half a dozen times and they've always come back clean... repaired and in great working order. I'm actually surprised to see what you went through as Canon is the only photography company I've dealt with that gives me great response... expedites everything and really goes out of their way to meet my concerns...

You should see Hasselblad Tech support... oh wait... what tech support? Two guys in New Jersey... to cover the entire USA... need to call someone for some technical issue you can't figure out while on a live set... good luck! ;)

With Canon though... never had a problem!

Remember to make sure you have CPS MEMBER written all over your box! Sorry to hear your experience wasn't so great.

Max out your ram first... get a scratch disk dedicated to photoshop second... i'd suggest a Raptor or Velociraptor if you can

afford one...

Always RAM first!

I have 10 gigs in my system and I can still cause the 8 processor 10 gigs of ram max out...

Too fake looking... i'm trying to emulate the look of say... a poorly wrapped steak.... with a few ripples here and there...

plastic wrap filter would create a plasticky look on every crevice of the meat i think....

But thanks for the reply! :)

Hiya! Searched for this answer and couldn't find it.

Anyone know a company that makes a nice hood for the Apple Cinema Display?

I have been attempting to contact the people at this company regarding digital infrared conversion for

about a year now. If it wasn't for the fact that they seem to be the only ones that convert Canon Pro1s into

infrared cameras... I would have given up long ago.

Does anyone know if they exist? Has anyone had luck contacting them?

I'm starting to think I'm either getting sent to some spam list... or they have gone out of business.

http://khromagery.com.au/

Would appreciate any knowledge regarding them.

Hey everyone!

Anyone with the G9 figured out how to make it shoot RAW plus a "Small" jpeg as opposed to a "large"

jpeg?

Is it an option at all?

Thanks!

Ellis, i say 1.5 gigs of ram with the knowledge that most people that buy an iMAC DO have a

half a dozen or more programs running in the background. ;) People don't really know any

better. hehe

I once had a similar problem... it turned out to be the "CARD READER" if you can believe

that.

Sorry to hear about your problem...

In the future, I would suggest using 1 to 2 gig cards and keeping them dedicated to each

camera....

"Never leave all your eggs in one basket... or in this case two." ;)

I usually leave my eggs in about 15 baskets. HEHE

3 Gigs for Photoshop and a gig and a half for OSX... so I'd say 4.5 gigs... as your computer

does 4 gigs max... the answer would be "4 gigs".

What Ellis said is probably the best idea for money savings... CS3 will make a huge difference

on an Intel based machine.

Oh and don't use the "ProPhoto" colorspace unless you are extremely adept in color

management... and know how to play the numbers... otherwise you could really make your

images.... ummm.... INTERESTING... hehe

Stick with AdobeRGB. ;)

Get a Mac. :)

I've used PCs for retouching most of my life on a computer....

Three years ago I tried a Mac... I won't ever go back.

Let me tell you... most people will never be able to tell the difference... and the few that can

won't care provided what you print is OOOOOH pretty. ;)

And the one's that nitpick you because one tonal shade of green didn't show up that would

have shown up had you processed in 16bit... well you're better off without them. ;)

And unless you're using a monitor with an extreme color range... YOU won't be able to see

what's happening anyhow. ;) As your monitor outputs 8bit. :D

Spoke to Hasselblad Tech support and they explain that...

"If the camera alone is being fired remotely, then the electronic cable

release port on the camera is used.

If the camera is firing flash, the PocketWizard is connected to either

the PC outlet with a cord or mounted directly onto the hot shoe.

If a remote camera also is firing flash, then the PocketWizard is

connected to both."

Funny... seems obvious now. :)

As a professional that regularly uses a 1Ds Mark II, 5D, H2D...

And used to shoot a 1Ds Mark I..

In terms of image quality... the 5D beats the Mark I in both resolution and noise control.

In my view, the weather durability of a camera really isn't that important as I can't

remember the last time I had a camera fail, sealed or not... in just about every weather

condition imaginable... from heavy snow storms... incredible humidity.... freezing

temperatures(ok i've had problems here... but it wasn't due to poor weather sealing)...

rain... 120 degree desert dry heat... etc etc etc...

Prosumer or not, if you want the better image quality, get the 5D, get the battery booster

and learn to love it, because you're doing yourself a disservice by purchasing a Mark I.

On another note... properly exposed... with all other factors being the same... I don't think

one can see the difference between a Mark II image and a 5D image on print.