gary_griffin
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Posts posted by gary_griffin
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I don't have this book, so I can't really give an opinion whether it is any good or not, but there is one that you can get from it is titled "Posing the Female Body" here is the link: http://www.shopomp.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=73
Hope this helps.
Gary
P.S You might have to create an ID for the site but it is free
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Sorry Andrew wasn't paying attention when looking for who posted this.
Still hope this helps you.
G
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John,
According to a bag of Kodak hardening fixer that I have it says:
To prepare:
1 Start with 3 U.S. pints - 1.42 litres of water not above 80 deg.F 26.5C
2 With rapid and continous strirring,slowly puor the contents into the water.
3 When the powder is dissolved, add water to bring the total volume to 0.5 U.S. gallon - 1.9L
For the stop bath:
Directions:(Films,Plates, and Papers)
Add this concentrate to water in the proportion of 16ml per litre, 2 fluid ounces per gallon to make a stop bath of normal working strength.
Then there is some other info about xrays and graphic arts film which I will bypass.
It picks up with the following:
Use stop bath at 18 t0 21C or 65 to 70F. Treat paper5 to 10 seconds, films and plates about 30 seconds.
The stop bath before use, is yellow in color and appears practically clear under safelight illumination. When yellow changes to purplish bule, which appears darker under the safelight, the bath is exhausted and should be discarded.
I will say that the bag of fixer is relatively old, but it should be a very good starting point, on the other hand the bottle of stop is brand new.
Hope this helps.
G
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Russ,
I have bought approx. 60 rolls (in 20 roll lots for about $25 each) on ebay from digitalelectronicsclub. As of right now they don't have any, but you may want to keep an eye out. Also, please tell Jan and Bob Kitt that I said hello. Was a student at Flo until this past semester when I moved to NW Indiana
Gary
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Mark,
I did dl the manual from christian's site. I read it wrong. It stated that " do not set a zoom position longer than the focal length of the lens being used. Always set the flash to a position equal to or smaller than the lens being used"
My bad.
Thanks,
Gary
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I just bought a 300tl for my T90 and I am wondering what mode most
of you use for shooting in a "party" type situation. I am thinking
of using A-TTL and program AE mode. It appears that this mode will
give me the best all around exposure. Also, I will be using a 35-105
and in the manual it states not to use a focal length longer than
the flash is set for as it cause uneven flash. If I use this set up
at 105 how ineffective will the flash be a the longer length?
Thanks,
Gary
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I have some questions regarding using a 420ez with a T90. First, can
anyone tell me where I can download a manual for this unit? Second,
What features of this flash are NOT compatible with the T90? Third,
if I want to use this on a stroboframe is this possible? I picked
this flash for use with my T90 when I couldn't find a 300tl for a
decent price. I had read this thread about using a 420.
http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003szQ
Thanks,
Gary
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Also if it matters this is the strobo that I am thinking about.STROBOFRAME CAMERA FLASH QUICK FLIP 350 310-635
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Sorry forgot to mention that i am using a T90 without a pc connection but I have a hotshoe adapter.
G
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I am in need of a stroboframe for an upcoming shoot. After looking at
them I am wondering how I can use my Vivitar 283 on this, as it does
not have a pc connection on it. Is this possible to do or do I need
to buy a 300tl
Thanks,
Gary
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Jim,
Thanks for the info. I had dl'ed a manual from Christian's site if I remeber correctly but the manual didn't go into great detail about this setting. Like you, I prefer to have as much control as possible.
G
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I just bought a T90 and have one question. When switching modes into
the "P" mode for either the wide or tele setting what effect does the
setting of P1, P2, or P3 have?
TIA,
Gary
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"Ilford's problem is not their market but their union, who'd apparently rather NO-ONE work there, than a smaller workforce. But hey, that's unions for you, they wreck everything they touch. If Ilford can break their's, all this hassle will be worthwhile."
Guy,
As a union member I take offense to your statement. Unions are by no means perfect, but without unions, you would still have sweatshops,child labor, and a whole host of other problems. I DO hope that whatever happens Ilford films are around for a long time.
Gary
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There was some for sale on ebay,but not there now.I would keep checking
G
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I do have bee's and will definitely put them up against britek's lights any time. These are very good lights for the money. Their customer service is first rate, also if you are a phot student (even a 49 year one) you get a 10% discount. Also, you might want to look at a post from last year that I asked the same question.
G
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Sean,
I feel for you. Hoiwever, I just bought a T90 from STeve and I had nothing but a very positive experience. Hope that this works out for you.
G
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Denise,
I cannot speak about the JTL strobes but I do have AB's and I love them. I have 2-800's & 1-400. Plenty of light for any thing that I shot so far. Also, if you are a student you get a 10% discount.
Hope this helps,
G
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Take a look at alienbees,www.alienbees.com They are little more expensive than britek (which I looked at as well) and as far as ari's observation for the flash tubes, with AB's you can change your own. Ithink that for the money spent you will be much happier with these.
G
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Eric,
Thanks alot, worked like a champ. Nothin like having a good laugh. I just didn't want to tear it up after the financial secretary let me spend the money for it :)
Thanks again,
G
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OK, the problem is not with the reflector, but the operator, me. I
just bought my forst one and I am embarressed to say I don' know how
to fold it back up. I don't want to damage it, but I just can't
figure out where to fold at. Do you just fold it half twice and
that's it? Does it matter where I try to fold it?
Gary
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Check out the lighting threads on www.fredmiranda.com there was just a thread on some folks dyeing muslin.
G
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Tony,
I know it's after the fact but please let me know how things went.
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Tony,
I just moved here recently and I am in Merrillville, don't know how much time you have but one spot that comes to mind would be Deep River Park just off highway 30. There is a pavillion and an old grist mill there. If you want email me and I will give you directions.
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To all:
Thanks for the response, I went ahead and bought from Steve after I talked with him. Jeff, there is nothing wrong with keh at all I just wanted opinions about the other site.
thanks,
Gary
Any good E-6 labs in the Milwaukee or Chicago area?
in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
Posted
Gerry,
Don't know how far out of the Chicago area you are looking but I use Bowman lab in Munster Indiana. They do first rate work and are very reasonably priced.
Gary