ronhartman

<p>I have Yosemite too. I tried the new Photo app, but didn't like it. iPhoto was still on my computer, but not in the dock anymore and not opening with a card. I was able to get things back to how they were before by changing preferences. Go with whatever works for you.</p>

<p>When Photo App opens, can you go to preferences, then go to Connecting Camera Opens and select no application. I seem to remember when I installed Photo, it took over opening, and I was able to switch back to iPhoto this way.</p>

<p>This is from the E-M1 manual:</p> <ul> <li> <p>When using a lens with an image stabilization function switch, priority is given to the lens side setting. <br> <br> It's my understanding that with IS lenses without the switch, and the camera IS is turned on, the lens IS will not be active.</p> </li> </ul>

<p>Shutter shock is when the shutter mechinism causes a small amount of vibration during exposure and caused pictures to be a little less sharp. It's been talked about quite a bit on the dpreview site, with wildly different opinions. People seem to report it more with the E-M1, and at shutter speeds between 1/50 and 1/250 of a second. Also seems to depend on the lens.</p> <p>I didn't think my E-M1 had the problem. But after the electronic first curtain option was added, I could see there is a small improvement in the sharpness. I don't think they added the feature to the E-M5.</p> <p>As far as your indoor pictures go, there could be several reasons why they don't look so good. Maybe shutter speed, subject movement, auto focus missed. Hard to say without seeing one and knowing more details. </p>

<p>There are 2 excellent native m4/3 lenses out there that will directly fit your camera and will keep auto focus and auto aperture: the Olympus 60mm f/2.8 and The Panasonic 45mm f/2.8. Both will be sharper then your zoom and focus closer. But neither is inexpensive.</p> <p>That said, any lenses on m4/3 at f/22 are going to lose a lot of sharpness, due to diffraction. Even after stopping down to f/8 or f/11, resolution is reduced. </p> <p> </p>

<p>I have the Pan 12-32 and 12-35 f/2.8. Briefly had the Olympus 12mm. At 12mm the 12-32 produces very nice images. Similar in the center, but towards the edges and corners, it's not quite as sharp as the other two lenses.</p> <p>I should add, I compared the lenses at f/4-5.6, doing some outdoor wood type of photography, on an E-M1.</p>

<p>The E-M1 shows 2 different formats in the menu for movies, MOV and M-JPEG. Maybe switch to the other one and see if your computer program can work with that.</p>

<p>You can activate both focus peaking and magnified view with the E-M1 using lenses that have no communication. In the menu, go to Gear-B-Button Function. Then go through the button options to find focus peaking and magnify and assign them to different buttons. I know Fn1 and Fn2 has these options. Probably others too. </p>