phillip_p._dimor

I push Tri-X from 1000 (in Acufine) and 1600 (in Microphen) pretty regularly. I've found that the increase in grain can be quite pleasing, much less overwhelming than pushing 35mm film.

I have a few (two or three..) in my portfolio.

 

Never tried an actual fast film..

I use a 7.5" Kodak Anastigmat. It's usually the first one I go for when I'm going out due to it's size. Stopped down, my sample performs very well.<br>

Some great reading on Ektars and Kodak Anastigmats;<br>

<a href="http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/ektar.html">Kodak Ektar Lenses</a><br><br>

I'd keep it. Try it out, it might be better than you think!

I love Tri-X and Plus-X in Microdol, 1:1 and 1:3.

Probably best for portraits..

 

D76 is cheaper and easier for me to find. Reasonably sharp/acutant at 1:1

 

I'd hate to say it, but perhaps you should consider trying both?

 

The great thing about Tri-X in my opinion, is that you can make it do just about anything with the right developer and i've yet to really find a 'bad' combination. Maybe i'm just open-minded though..

I've never tried Neopan although it sounds fantastic. I have been using the Arista.edu/Fortepan 400 and it reminds me a lot of Tri-X except that it's a bit grainier.

I picked up a Pentax 645 with normal lens and 1 back for about $350 US Dollars. The body was a bit scuffed up but it's never failed on me.

 

The Koni Omegas look fantastic for the price, as well as the Mamiya TLR's. I think you could pick up a Mamiya RB 6x7 with 1 lens and back for that, if not just a little bit more.

 

I notice a difference between my 35mm and 6x4.5 negatives. Even with 5x7 prints. I've just started putting together a real 35mm kit but i'm still reaching for my Pentax 645.

 

Perhaps you were more comfortable with your Nikon?

Perhaps you'd like to try Tri-X in Microdol-X, but please do consider Plus-X in Microdol-X.. It might be too 'mushy?' for you, but I certainly think it's nice. Very creamy and smooth.

I've only used Fortepan400 in 4x5 sheets. It is grainy but I do like the look. D76 is my choice for the moment, perhaps it would be well suited for Fortepan 100..

Not sure about TXP120 but for TX120 I fix as if it were TMax..

My negatives come out pretty clean thankfully. How is quality of your water?

 

For storing my negatives, I use PrintFile pages with hanging bars.

The pages with hangers go into one of those large rubbermaid document bins that hold folders, just like a filing cabinet. I used to keep my negative pages in a binder. Grit, dust and dirt would find it's way into the sleeves and the negatives would rub up against it. I find that hanging the sleeves up protects them much better and I have much less trouble with dirt and crud.

Silly idea, but perhaps you could try printing on like grade 5 paper, or use a grade 5 filter.. Or even develop your film with lith developer? Lots of different ways to go about it.

John; I used to love Plus-X. I developed a few rolls in Microdol-X and yes, it did certainly glow. I don't think i'd use that combination for everything, but for portraits it has a very pleasing look.

About pushing 120 film; I shoot 400TX in 120 pretty much exclusively (not the 320TX pro or whatever it's called now)

 

I push most of it up to 1600 in microphen sometimes, more usually up to 1000 in acufine. I can't get major grain unless i'm printing 11x14's, and even then the grain isn't objectionable at all. It was kind of disappointing, actually. I like grain sometimes.

I bought an Omega D2 about four years ago for $100. It came with a lensboard and condenser for 120 film. Bought it locally, too.

I spent the next two years piecing all the accessories together.

An aristo cold light, lens cone and lenses, negative carriers, etc.

 

It's easier and cheaper to get everything you need at the moment of purchase. That being said, I love my enlarger.

 

Hang on to your Omega b22, it's nice to have one enlarger set up for one format, and another ready for another format.

I only own one lens with a shutter, everything else is in a barrel.

I just keep my camera clean on the inside and I have no problems with dust. A bit of lemon pledge, scotchguard or even suede/nubuck waterproofing spray on the shutter fabric will go a long way in repelling and kicking up dust. Atleast that's been my experience. Sounds like a great setup, Dave!

I started (and still use) with a 4x5 Speed Graphic. Nice cameras, especially if you can find a nice one in working condition.

 

For field use, you can't really beat the Graphics. A Crown Graphic with a spring back and a 'normal sized lens' with shutter doesn't weigh much.

 

For a cheap tripod, try finding an older Husky Quick Set. I paid $30 + shipping for mine through eBay. It's sturdy to hold my Speed Graphic and Aero Ektar (read; very heavy combination) at odd angles. It's not the lightest tripod, but i'm poor, young and strong. Also it makes for a good weapon.

Fit and finish is very nice and if you can live with a pan/tilt head, this might be the only tripod you'll really need.

My last can of Agfa film (2001?) was packaged in a black plastic can and sealed with tape.

 

Either way, I tend to put film (sheet film boxes, 35mm/120 rolls, unloaded bulk 35mm rolls and a loaded watson film loader all in separate ziploc bags. Just let it warm up like the others have said and you'll be fine.

Harvey, that's what I thought. I just bought a Fujica ST605N, and it appears that some of these have round eyepieces while others have a rectangular eyepiece. Also picked up a Yashica TL Super and would like to purchase one eyepiece magnifier and right angle finder and use it on both (and possibly my Minolta Maxxum plastic wonder and Pentax K1000) Unfortunately things like this usually don't work out so well :/

 

Thanks for the replies!

Hello, I wasn't sure if this was the right place for my question or

not.

 

I've finally decided to build up a screwmount m42 kit and will most

likely have several different camera bodies. I'm pretty picky on

eyepieces, however. I like a large eyecup, the kind that slides

onto the eyepiece. I also like right-angle viewfinders and eyepiece

magnifiers. Is it safe to say that more or less, the classic SLR's

of the 60s and 70s have compatible eyepieces? With the exception of

those with round threaded eyepieces (Canon F/Nikon F/some Fujicas,

etc).. ?

 

I have a Minolta Eyecup and it fits more or less on my Pentax K1000.

The eyepieces are rectangular and have gaps on both sides for the

accessory to lock into. Could I possibly use a Pentax eyepiece

magnifier on a Yashica TL Super?

 

I know that this is a pretty broad question but I don't want to

purchase bits of gear that I won't be able to use..

Oops, Kevin already said it. Sorry about that, but the advice and suggestions are good.

Thomson, you could use the meter on a 35mm slr. For metering landscapes, i'd go for a spot meter. I'm not much of a landscape guy so my Minolta Autometer IVF works great for mostly everything that I do.

 

I've used a 35mm slr for a meter with an old Tower Reflex TLR. The resulting prints were actually very nice when the lens was stopped down with a tripod.

My Pentax 645 doesn't do this.. I don't think it's you, but the somewhat good news is that you might just need a new(er) insert.

Check the contacts on the back of the camera and the insert, they are silver-colored and shiny. If they have corrosion, clean them with a pencil eraser. Also check that the matching contacts on the camera body are still springy and clean of oxidation/grime. Other than that, check to make sure that your insert is complete and not missing anything.. Another poster had a problem with his P645 and it was (most likely) due to his insert missing a metal roller of some sorts..

 

PS- you are pulling the sticky-tab off of the paper, right? :)

I have a bag that is just like that except it's a little smaller. It works GREAT for my 4x5 field camera and MF kit, as well as all the accessories and even a 35mm camera and lens or two. It holds everything, is waterproof and rolls. Great find, I'm glad you like yours!

Marc, I've only tried Arista .EDU 400 in 4x5 sheets. It seems to be a little grainy (shows up when you enlarge a few times, obviously)

but otherwise I like it a lot. Especially for the price. Seems to be the same or very close to Fortepan/Classic Pan.

<br><br>

I'm pretty familiar with Ilford Delta 400 in 120 rolls and it's tough to compare to the Arista .EDU (or HP5/Tri-X..) If you can live with a more traditional emulsion then you might like .EDU

<br><br>

I live in Massachusetts and B&H will usually have my order at my door in two days with regular shipping. Freestyle takes about eight days.

<br><br>

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=133967&is=REG">Ilford FP4 Plus 50 Roll Brick @ B&H, $119</a><br><br>

I remember them having bricks of HP5+ and Delta too, both listed on their website.. Can't find it now but if you call them they should be able to cut you a discount if you buy 50 or more rolls.<br>

In regards to your closing comment; Be sure which ever edition you decide to purchase, is either the hardcover or softcover bound edition and NOT the spiral bound copy. Mine is practically unreadable. Pages get stuck on the spiral, it's very aggravating.. I'm quite careful with it too.

 

I'm sure POTA would yield fine results on 35mm roll film. I'm not sure about conventional 'old school films' but document films, Agfa Copex/Tech Pan/Aerographic Duplicating film, etc. should work particularly well. The Film Developing Cookbook does have a good chapter on POTA and it's applications.

 

Perhaps the second edition is just error corrections and updated information on the newer emulsions available ('new' Kodak films, discontinued ones, etc.)

 

I wouldn't know, but the Author's email addresses aren't that tough to find. Seem like reasonably easy folk to reach.

I started with D76, and then it was Rodinal, PMK, Acufine/Microphen, etc. I'm about to stick with Acufine when I want to push film, and D76 for everything else. Less variables. I like trying new combinations, but for serious work the best combination is the one that you are intimately familiar with. That's what I think, atleast.

 

I've had good results with Plus-X and Microdol-X for fine grain portraits. I've heard that Delta 400 and Microdol-X is a wonderful combination. I've always liked Rodinal and Tri-X, as well as PMK and Tri-X... I've had good results from PMK and Agfa APX100 too..