kevinteo

The camera seems to be capable of extended red photography although a bulb

exposure is necessary if the low-pass filter is left in place.

I took this shot with my dad's 40D, the 17-85 kit lens and a Kodak Wratten 89B gelatin

filter. Note that I was using a 3" filter with a rather clumsy frame/holder/stepping-ring

assembly that was not quite the same size as the front element of the lens, so the

slight vignetting is mechanical.<div></div>

If you leave the film out too long, it attenuates the infrared sensitivity resulting in a

shift towards cyan; you can fix that with CC gels, which may be a better alternative to

freezing and unfreezing.

The page says that it is "cut down" for 120, by which I presume is from Aerochrome

III. Exposure is the same as standard EIR - so what Bueh said.

As Kelly said, mirror slap is probably a worry at low speeds, so you should use a mirror

lock-up if you can.

Vivek, I sadly have only two rolls left (expiring in August). Don't suppose anyone out there

still chops down Aerochrome III EIR bulk rolls? Perhaps it's time to save up for an M8 and

move on. Maybe I can try to get some nice false-color UV shots like you did...

There's a function in Image>Adjustments>Shadow/Highlight that allows you to try to recover

blown highlights.

<p>As Hector and Lex have pointed out, the difference between ƒ and T stops is

usually not more than ⅓ stop variance. Some films like Ektachrome Infrared have

relatively narrow exposure latitude, which may require that slight amount of compensation.

That said, I tend to bracket exposures just to safe.</p>

<p>Filter factor for UV filters is usually 1X (i.e. no adjustment is necessary). For a polarizer,

it may vary depending on the brand/type, but an adjustment of 1⅓ to 2 stops is

normal. See <a

href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_factor">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_factor

</a> for more information.</p>

There is always going to be a difference; I don't think any lens at f1.4 is also T1.4. But I find

that the difference is usually not an issue with most negative films. Just remember that when

not metering through the lens, you will also need to consider filter factor of anything else

that you have on the lens.

<p><i>the difference between Ilford and TMax</i></p>

<p>See here - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tabular-

grain_film">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tabular-grain_film</a></p>

<p>Kodak Wratten filters are now distributed by <a

href="http://www.tiffen.com/intl_dlr_locator.html">Tiffen</a>. The URL will take you to the

dealer locator; hopefully you can source one out from there.</p>

<p>But anyway, I thought the XPan only fogged the sprocket area. See this post - <a

href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

msg_id=000KYS">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

msg_id=000KYS</a></p>

Come to think of it, if you're going with the 35mm/1.2 Nokton, you may well want the R3A

for more accurate focusing.

<p><i>I should take my hat off to the maintainers </i></p>

<p>Me too. Thank you to Josh and Patrick and all the other heroes!</p>

Thanks Chris! I had thought that film flatness would be an issue. But everything looks good,

at least at screen resolution anyway.

<p>Please let me know what happens. There was a thread (<a

href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

msg_id=00O2r3">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00O2r3</a>)

discussing using 35mm film in a medium format camera to get the image right to the edge. I

think that discussion is still in need of some closure. :)</p>

<p>I should mention that I once closed the back without aligning the take-up spool arch as

explained above (I was loading infrared film a changing bag, which is of course a rather

clumsy process). I encountered some resistance closing the back, but forced it anyway. The

film advance didn't feel out of the ordinary. The back didn't close properly and actually

popped wide open midway through. I only lost about 2½ frames but had no fogging

other than that; all other exposures returned fine suggesting that the film winds on tightly

even if we don't set it up 100% right. I didn't realize what was happening until I was

unloading the film and and felt the take-up spool out of position.</p>

<p>While not exactly a device, I've heard a lot of mentions around this forum about using a

<a href="http://www.undergroundvaults.com">salt mine</a>. If it isn't overkill for you, it

may well be the best.</p>