tony_b

Just a curious question. Does anybody lnow why there is an electronic

element, an IC, in the vivitar 2xTC for EOS ? I always thought that

the connectors on the TC are only to let the body communicates with

the lens as no actif electrical elements in the TC.

Hello,

 

Read this, very usefull to understand how the flash work

 

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

Get the circular polarizer. On my Elan7E i use with a lens of f4.5 max appearture without problem

After many researchs, i've bought the 420EX for my rebel 200, you will have E-ttl and FEL. with the EZ series you dont have the E-ttl.

It seems that the Sigmea 500 Super is a good choice for Rebel, i've never tried it. I suggest you the CAnon 420EX.

For more information, you can read this

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

420EX

I use it very often on the Elan7E, it works also with my glasses (non colour glasses).

Hello,

 

Which Fuji color print film do you advise for landscapes ?

I was looking on Fuji websites for information about Fuji Reala, I can

find it on websites of some countries but not other countries. Does

Fuji Reala still exists or it is replaced by Superia Reala ? Is

Superia Reala good for landscapes ?

I agree with the previous answer, I think the 85/1.5 is the best choice if you dont need macro.

By the way, where in Europe can you find these lenses with the price you mentioned? in France, the 85/1.8 costs 550 $ and the 100/2.8 macro costs 840$.

It uses center wieghted metering.

 

You can make test by metering of a small light bulb, changing focusing points and compare between AF and MF modes.

If the money is not a matter, have the 28-105. the 28-80 is not as bad as people say here, you wont notice very big difference between the 28-80 and the 28-105. 28-105 has better build quality and non rotating front element which is easier to use with circular polarizer. To learn, you can have the 50/1.8 (not a zoom); but the image quality is better than both zoom lenses, and this one is cheap.

I upgraded last year from EOS Rebel 2000 to Elan 7E, I wanted the Elan 7 but finally decided to have the Elan 7E. I am very pleased with the ECF and I used almost all the time even with my glasses. I have a calibration for eyes with glasses and one without glasses, both work well, i have non colored glasses.

Sometimes I dont use ECF, it happens only when the subject is under very high ligh conditions (very sunny day and the subject in direct sun light), in this condition, sometimes I cant see the red focusing point blinking. In this case I select the focusing point manualy if I must select one, otherwise I leave it on automatic selection

the 75-300 is very sharp from 75 to about 120 mm. i compared it with the 28-105, at 80 mm it is sharper than the 28-108 at same apperture

the 75-300 is rated higher than the 100-300 on photodo website.

No, it is a new lens

Right Bob, another mistake! i mean the 75-300

Optically the 70-300 and 100-300 are quite similar. The construction of the 100-300 is beter with nor rotating front element (useful for using polarizer filters)

Sorry, confusion. I thought your old camera was an EOS300, it is 3000.

What about trying to meter off a 18% grey card ?

With the EOS 30 and the 420EX you can set flash exposure compensation with the body, with your EOS 300 you need to change the film ISO to achieve that (it works only in manual mode, I tried it).

I have now the EOS 300, the EOS 30 and the 420EX which it works very well with both bodies. I will consider to have a 550EX only if one day i will need a master/slave flash set as with the 550EX as master flash you can use several 420EX ond/or 550EX as slave E-ttl flash.

For more information you can read this:

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

Anyhow, the 550EX will work well with the 2 bodies.

Daniel, you are right, I noticed the dust too and was surprised when i compare it to the Rebel 2000 I haven the door closes very tightly, as you say, i will end by not notice it any more.

Hello, I have my new Elan 7E since about 1 month and I have noticed

today that there is a small amount of mouvement at the film door near

the latch side: when I have a film inside the camera the door "opens

up" about 0.5 mm , if i press it mith my fingers it closes tightly

"as it should be" and it opens again (0.5mm) when i remove my fingers.

I didnt notice any problem with the photos i made.

Does anybody have such a problem with the Elan7?

Get the 28-105. I already asked the same questions as you and i ended by having the 28-105 in addition of the 50 1.8 and the 75-300.

1- I dont think it is a problem to have a small lens with plastic mount. I have a metallic mount on the body and have some lenses with metallic mount, some with plastic mounts, i didnt noticed a problem yet.

 

2- Of course you can use polarizers with USM lens. You need only to look the AF then adjust the polarizer when the front element of your lens 'where you fit the filter) rotates when focusing as for the EF 28-80 or 75-300. You dont need to lock the AF when this element dosent rotate when focusing (as for EF 50/1.8 , 28-105,...).With this type of lenses you can focus adjust the polarizer than focus again if you want.

For other type of filters (as UV filter, colored filters, ..) you dont need to lock the AF even the front element is rotating.

Read this: http://www.photo.net/nature/sunmoon.html

 

I've done some photos of the moon 1 hour ago, i red this article before. I used what is suggested (1/125 f8, and 1/60 f 8), i was using ISO 200 film. I did some shots using the partial meter of my cam too(1/6 f8, big difference.

i will post photos here after get them back from lab

If you want to use other filters, get the Cokin P cause it is very easy to change filters and use many filters at the same time than scrw out and in a filter each time.

If you want only to use the polarizer filter, you have to consider to get the screw in one cause it wont take much place. I dont have vignetting problem when using the screw in polarizer alone on the 28-105 at 28 mm.

The price of the Cokin P polarizer would be something equivalent to the 2 screw in filters ( as i remeber)