tony_b

<p>Hi Bill,<br>

the photos of the brazilian website confirm that there is no centerline in the viewfinder.<br>

I like the X&à specifications but i hate to shoot without viewfinder and can immagine how much it is bothering to not have at least the centerlines (to use the viewfinder and central focus oint).<br>

Instead the X1O I think to buy tge canon G12. I think the G12 has centerlines in the viewfinder as my old G3</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Tanks for the answer. A center mark inside the viewfinder would be very useful. I like to shoot using the viewfinder. For landscapes it should be ok using DOF zones but can immagine how bothering is to use this camera without even a center mark for people photography, etc</p>

<p>Hello,</p>

<p>I am considering buying a fuji X10 camera. Could somebody please tell me if the viewfinder of the X10 has centerline mark, cross mark or other mark on the center of the viewfinder ?<br>

As there is ni information in the viewfinder, I think it would be easy to use the viewfinder with the central focus point on in case ther is some mark inside the viewfinder in the center of it.</p>

<p>thanks for your answer</p>

Hello,

 

I have had and still have feww Canonet QL17. As far as I know and from what I've used, there were 3 models of the QL17 with the 40mm lens.

 

1- Canonet QL17 40 mm lens with no battery check at all, camera made in Japan.

 

2- Canonet QL17 40 mm lens with a battery check button near the viewfinder, the battery level is indicated by the meter needle inside the viewfinder (a green mark near the F8).

This camera was refered to QL17-L (Luxury) in some owner's manuals though no L or luxury written on the camera, it was the last model made in Japan before the GIII made in Taiwan.

 

3- Canonet QL17- GIII 40 mm lens made in Taiwan with the battery check button and Led near the viewfinder.

 

These cameras look the same (other than the power check button), I've put some lens elements from camera 1 to camera 2 and vice-versa to replace some scratched elements. I didnt notice any difference with the lenses.

 

I think the camera 2 is the less frequently found for sale on internet, it is my favorite one and it is the only Canonet I still have. It is my favorite for the following reason:

 

- the needle to check the battery level. It is more useful than the Led especially when you dont use the mercury battery: If your canonet meter is not calibrated for a modern battery (silver oxyde SR44 let's say which is the best replacement of the mercury battery for canonet cause it's voltage is almost constant all the battery life)you can see where the needle is when you press the battery check button and than adjust the ISO settings to compensate for the voltage difference.

Mark, you are right, you have to take the leather off from the speed and ISO knobs then you can remove these knobs, there are some screws.

To remove the prism release button you have to remove the plate that covers the contacts then at the other end of the release button inside the prism you find a small hole, you can put a kind of small screw drive inside the hole a,d turn the release button to remove it.

Hello, I am trying to disassemble a PD prism, I removed the ISO

adjustindial and the shutter speed dial but I cant find how to take

out the finder release button in order to take off the housing of the

finder.

 

Do you know how to take out the finder release button ?

No way to fix it tight. I havent received the lens yet, trying without the lens. Does it need the lens to hold the prism tight ? cause it moves barck and forth.

Hello, just received a Mamiya 645 1000s with the PD prism all in good

condition and seems to work well , the only problem I have is that

the PD prism dosent fix tight on the body, it still move when i touch

it and I can even remove it without pushing the prism release button.

 

I cant figure out why the prism dosent fix tight, nothing seems to be

missed or broken on the prism or the body, I can see the 2 latches on

the prism and the 2 latches on the body, these latches that are

supposed to fix the prism.

 

Do I miss something else? could somebody please send me a photo of

the side of the prism that fit on the body ? I couldnt find this

photo on the web. Many thanks

Nils, just checked it after I saw your reply, mine does the same too, never noticed that before, but Idont care, never had problem with it. I dont know if it is normal or not.

The photos here looked fuzzy cause the scan I think, they look sharp on the paper.

 

HC, it is very easy to replace the light seals yourself. I used 2 mm thickness foam in a small roll (similat to duct tape but it is foam). For the battery, a SR44 works very well, you only need a small washer cause the SR44 is a little bit thinner than the mercury battery. Make a search on the web, you can find the dimensions of the seals to cut in case you cant get these dimensions from the old seals

Here is another one<div></div>

Hello,

 

Just to share some photos from a test roll I did with a QL17 I've

purchased in a quite good condition. I changed the light seals, took

the lens apart and cleaned it from dust. The photos look good, photos

are scanned from prints. I like this camera, it is nice to use too<div></div>

I mean 1 stop for the 120

Hi,

 

stop for 120 and 2 stops for the 121

Hello,just bought a yashica 35 cc in a good condition but there is

many dust in the lens. I took out the front group of the lens and

clean it but there still some dust behind the front element inside

the front group. doses anybody know if the front element can be taken

out from the group ?

Do you mean Contax G1/G2 film camera ?

I bought a QL17 last year, changed the light seals and cleaned the viewfinder and the lens. I use it now very often , nice to shoot with, and good photo quality.

 

Cleaning the viewfinder is easy but dont insist on cleaning glasses, they can be scratched easily, clean smoothly.

Cleaning the lens was more difficult cause some special tools are needed, I managed to do these tools myself on a lathe.

 

For the battery, dont bother yourself with adaptors. After the mercury cell was empty I use now silver-oxude cell SR44 or equivalent, it is about 1.55 V , the voltage remain quite constant over the life time of the cell. The alkaline cells have their voltage that decreases when the cell is getting "empty".

You can the SR44 with a small spacer (cause it is a little bit thinner than the 625 mercury cell), or you can stick an aluminum foil between the cell and the camera contact if you dont have a spacer available. Be careful with the cell polarity cause you can put the SR44 + up or + down into the camera. The meter reading may not be accurate, what I did is I compared the QL17 reading with aanother camera reading (Elan 7E with center-weighted metering) and I adjust the ISO setting on the QL17 to match the ELAN reading. It works quite good.

You can adjust the meter but I didnt do it, changing the ASA is more easy. I had 1 stop to adjust.

The max syncro speed is 1/90 s when the flash is on normal position, any speed with FP flash mode

They are less expensive at B&H USA than in France.

Hi, I've just had the first test roll back from processing, I will try to answer your questions

 

1-Yes, there is exposure lock when you press the shutter release halfway.

 

2- No option with the camera to leave the leader out.

 

3- there are 6 blades. Didnt make a photo to test the bokeh yet.

 

4- I've made 1 shot wide open (f/2.6) with low light (about 1/8 s-estimated by a lightmeter, hand held), the result is good but cant say more about sharpness with this single shot. No light fall on the corners.

 

I was impressed by the quality of the photos.

Here you can find all what you want.

 

http://www.geocities.com/cokinfiltersystem/exposure_.htm

With a filter factor of 8x you need an exposure compensation of +3EV as the lightmeter sensor is not covered by the filter. So you can tape a ND gel with a factor of 8x on the sensor.

 

Depending on the gel you can find, you can set the exposure compensation to +1EV and tape a 4x ND gel on the sensor or set the exposure compensation to +2EV and tape a 2x ND gel.

Here is a PDF english user manual for Rollei AFM 35

 

http://www.rollei.de/cct/files/rollei/data/GBAAFM35e.pdf

Thank you Klais.

Hello,

 

Just received a Rollei AFM 35, the user maual is in German! Can't find

an online manual. The camera operation is easy to understand but I am

not sure about the 2 LEDs near the viewfinder, especially the red one

that blinks when the shutter speed is slow.

 

Could somebody please tell me more about these 2 LEDs?, at what

shutter speed the red one blinks?...

 

Thanks