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janet cull

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Posts posted by janet cull

  1. The 120 box of Arista EDU Ultra 400 says to use HC110 1:31. Does that mean 1 part stock to 31 water?

    I'm not experienced with HC110, but that sounds too dilute to me. It says D76 1:1 and I know that means

    1 part stock to 1 water. Seems the first number representing "stock" should be consistent across the list

    unless there is a note to indicate otherwise.

     

    Have any of you used HC110 with this film? Thank you.

     

    Janet

  2. I have tried a handful of Konica IR films and everytime I've fogged it. I can't figure out why.

    I've been careful loading and unloading it. I shoot it in a Hasselblad and have wondered if

    something about that was a problem, but I don't have problems with anything else fogging.

    The films were also from 2 different sources, so I can't assume it's the source's fault.

     

    I gave up. (for the time being anyway)

  3. >>>Janet, what went wrong?<<<

     

    I don't know. That's the big question and I haven't figured it out yet. I'm gonna shoot

    another roll with the same camera (which I've never had problems with) and try it again.

     

    I tried HC110 once before and didn't stick with it and now that I tried this I'm

    remembering why. I love the simplicity of mixing D76. 1:1. Simple. Doing 1:7 or to 64

    and ending up with slightly over 32 ounces just isn't as simple. Am I showing my

    laziness?

     

    Paul, those do look nice. I especially like the softness of "morning light".

     

    Larry - yes, but were you awake??? I really did think about e-mailing you but had already

    posted 3 different places and was running low on hope.

     

    I've been up till 2:30 all week, getting ready for a home-town festival. My son-in-law

    asked me if I wanted to sell some prints (sell...that's a misnomer!) at his booth. He's a

    photographer also. Nobody even stopped to look! I sold one print and traded 2 for a few

    loaves of homemade bread, which I gave away. :o( AND he sold the print at half what I

    wanted for it. Oh well. It sold and they really liked it. I'm glad when someone really likes

    something.

     

    Thanks all. When I rest up I'll unravel this mystery.

     

    Janet

  4. Don, I'll take you up on that. Last night I posted questions everywhere I knew to and

    waited... Seems everyone was sleeping and not online except me and Anupam Basu. And I

    couldn't get his replies to my next questions fast enough. The whole thing was very

    frustrating because I'm on a crunch-time thing and I just lost every shot on my last two

    rolls. I needed those prints for something tomorrow morning! Haha - might as well

    laugh. I finally went to bed early morning with blank negatives to show for it all. ~sigh~

     

    Of course, you'd have hated to get my call after midnight asking questions. I hope you're

    in a different time zone. A few hours behind would be good since I always get to this stuff

    late at night.

     

    I wish I'd thought to have done one roll to see what I got. Oh well, it's spilled milk now.

     

    Janet

  5. I have a couple rolls of old Tri-X Pro 120 (400 speed) film to process. The recommended time is 4 min.

    and it seems I've read that there's something bad about using short developing times. I'm out of D76 with

    nowhere to get it as quickly as I need it. Will I be sorry if I proceed with the HC110 at 4 min.? Thanks.

    AGAIN!

  6. Frank, thank you. Maybe I'm looking at something old. I've looked at it again and again,

    assuming I must be the problem.

     

    It's page 4, Kodak T-Max Pro Films: Tech Pub F-32 for iso 100 and 400. I'm reading the

    chart for 100. It says D-76 (1:1) 68 degrees 12 minutes. At least we're getting closer, if

    yours says 11. Am I being a nit-picker? I'm sorry. I don't mean to be, but I don't want to

    mess this up.

     

    I'll pick one of Kodak's recommendations and take that over the Massive Dev. Chart's.

    Thank you again for responding!

     

    Janet

  7. >>>The development time will vary according to the required contrast of the negative,

    e.g. for condenser heads a gamma of 0.55 is considered the norm while for a diffuser

    head 0.65 is the norm.<<<

     

    With all respect, I'm thinking if that were the reason then the dev. time difference would be

    reflected for all films & developers across the board. There are no notes about, "if you use

    a diffuser or condenser head, then use... time".

     

    TMax 400 shows the same time on the Massive Dev Chart as Kodak's info (with no

    difference indicated for diffuser or condenser head).

     

    I just want to know what developing time you (who shoot TMax 100) start with - 9.5 or 12

    minutes? That's a big difference; 3.5 minutes.

     

    Thank you.

  8. I'd gotten some helpful info from a couple members here about using stock rather than 1:1 d76 with a fast

    film (1600).

     

    My 120 negatives are usually flatter than my 35mm negs and require a bit more time and agitation to get

    a decent 120 neg. I rarely have to use contrast when I print my 35mm negs. Almost always do when

    printing 120. Lately with more developing time and a bit more agitation I've gotten by pretty well with no

    magenta filtering on the 120s. I don't know if that offers any info to help you answer this or not.

     

    I'm about to process some 120 Arista.edu Ultra (400). I would usually use 1:1 d76. Would stock be of any

    greater benefit to me for this? One of the rolls was shot inside with decent, indirect lighting. Soft light. I

    can't remember what the other roll is of.

     

    Thank you.

    F100

    Thank you all. You guys are great!

     

    I took my camera yesterday to a family get-together. I haven't seen the results yet, but the

    camera sure does handle well. If the prints are good, I'm in love.

    F100

    >>>I am hard-wired to focus in the center and recompose. I see no reason to retrain

    myself to switch among five sensors.<<

     

    Me too! I feel so awkward trying to make my fingers do all that.

     

    I do like the very fast focus. And a built-in diopter is a *real* plus for me. Yep, I like the

    auto-focus pretty good.

     

    Thanks. I'll surely catch on. I have to say, it seems simpler than my old F70. I thought I'd

    never get to like that camera or learn to use it. I learned to use it, but in some ways I've

    always liked my FG better.

    F100

    Yaron, good question. *My* reason was because I lost my other auto-focus body (well, my

    husband did) and I'd promised my daughter's friend I'd shoot her wedding next month. I

    used my SB28 with it, on a Stroboframe, and it's handy for running at a wedding. My

    "running" camera ran away with some stranger at the airport.

     

    If I could get out of doing this girl's wedding I'd be totally satisfied with my other cameras,

    but I hate to leave her stranded on such short notice. That's why. I didn't want to bore

    everyone with those details in the original post.

    F100

    I just bought one and I'm starting to be sorry. I feel like I'm trying to learn some new kind of computer,

    like it's a digital machine only running film through it. Please tell me I'll learn to love it. All I've heard

    about them is good! I feel like a slow learner, picking through these 111 pages of instructions.

     

    I much prefer my manual cameras but felt I needed this to help a friend with a wedding next month.

    Yikes! I hope I'll be ready to use it comfortably by then.

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