Michael R Freeman

<p>The AiS Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 in all her beautiful, finely machined mechanical glory.</p> <p>Let me know if you want to see a detailed photo of the "Nikon infinity adjustment securing mechanism". ;-) :-)</p><div></div>

<blockquote> <p><em>"I second the Q-Tip moistened with isopropanol."</em></p> </blockquote> <p>Pure Isopropanol evaporates too quickly, and usually just leaves the grime behind spread out in a thinner film. I have found that the best alcohol based solvent for cleaning SLR mirrors is actually Vodka. But it needs to be unflavored Vodka, which is pure ethanol and distilled water. Also, like Stephen, I have found that lighter fluid (Naphtha or camping fuel) can help to dissolve and remove stubborn and sticky deteriorated mirror foam bits (i.e. "goo").</p> <p>As others have noted use very light strokes with a Q-Tip saturated with booze, quickly followed by a dry one to pick up the solvent and any dissolved goo. Nikon SLR mirrors are front silvered but the coating, while delicate and easily scratched, is a bit more robust than one might think. Use a blower bulb to make sure there is no grit on the surface. Work carefully and no damage should be done and in the end you should have a spotless and sparkling mirror.</p> <p>You can then drink any leftover Vodka to celebrate your newly cleaned FG. Do <strong>*not*</strong> do the same if you use Iospropanol. :)</p>

<blockquote> <p>"When the barrel stops rotating the infinity symbol is aligned with the black dot."<br> -<br> "I suspect your lens has been taken apart for servicing and been incorrectly assembled."</p> </blockquote> <p>Not incorrectly assembled. More than likely just not adjusted correctly for infinity focus, or else the adjustment has slipped. The focusing barrel on this lens will *always* stop with the dot and infinity symbol perfectly aligned, just as it always stops at the exact same location at the minimum end of the focusing range, as there are hard mechanical stops machined on the underside of the focusing ring and the underlying main lens barrel.</p> <p>This lens uses a split focusing ring and the front half, which is attached to the focusing helicoid, can be adjusted relative to the fixed infinity stop of the rear half. It is a simple and quick adjustment for any qualified technician familiar with Nikon AiS lenses.</p> <p>You might be shocked if you knew the "high tech" method employed to adjust infinity focus on this (and others) expensive and precisely machined Nikon AiS lenses. :)</p>

<p>Both the Nikon FM series (mechanical shutter) and FE series (electronic shutter) have user changeable eyepiece diopter correction. The eyepiece lenses are interchangeable between both series and are still available new from B&H, or any Nikon full service dealer.</p>

<p>Yes, there should be two grub screws on the AiS 28/2.8, so one is missing where you see the hole. But if tightening the one screw fixed your nosepiece looseness, I would not worry about the other missing screw.</p> <p>I'm not sure of the size, but these are specialized hardened screws with a sharply tapered cone point on one end (Nikon p/n K2-17020FB). Again, as long as you have one tightened down, I would not be concerned about the one that is missing on a small lens like the 28mm. The only purpose of the nosepiece is to provide an attachment point for a lens cap, filter or the very lightweight HN-2 lens hood. The nosepiece is fully seated and threaded on to the main lens barrel via fine pitch threads. The grub screws are only there to prevent the assembly from possibly backing out when you unscrew a filter.</p> <p>Enjoy the lens. :)</p><div></div>

<p>If the grub screws are loose, it is a simple and easy fix. Focus the lens to 0.2m and you should see 2 tiny screws on the side of the filter thread nosepiece (see photo below). The screws are very tiny and very fragile, but as long as you have a properly fitted slot screwdriver, you should be able to tighten them enough to secure the filter thread.</p> <p>This slight rotation of the nosepiece would have no impact on the other mechanical or optical functions of the lens.</p><div></div>

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<p>Cross-posted here:<br> <a href="/modern-film-cameras-forum/00duZ1">http://www.photo.net/modern-film-cameras-forum/00duZ1</a></p>

<p>I think you need to read the PayPal and eBay User Agreements more carefully. You can list as "no refunds - no returns" as much as you want, but if a buyer opens a PayPal dispute because they are unhappy with their purchase because *they* feel it is not as described, it doesn't really matter what you believe the real condition of the item is. It doesn't matter if you think the buyer's claim is false of not ... you *will* lose that dispute.<br> <a href="https://www.paypal.com/webapps/mpp/ua/useragreement-full#10">https://www.paypal.com/webapps/mpp/ua/useragreement-full#10</a><br> <a href="https://www.paypal.com/webapps/mpp/ua/useragreement-full#13">https://www.paypal.com/webapps/mpp/ua/useragreement-full#13</a></p> <p>Take it from someone who has sold to hundreds of buyers on eBay. The best thing to do in an instance like this is to immediately offer to refund the buyer upon safe return of the lens and move on. Resistance or arguments with the buyer will get you nowhere, except perhaps a negative feedback. The buyer is required to return the item to you by an on-line traceable delivery method, and return shipping is at *their* expense, not yours.</p> <p>Such is the cost of selling on eBay.</p>

<p>Unless you intend to share AA Eneloops with a Speedlight or you intend to shoot with the F4 <strong>a lot</strong> (i.e. daily), I would tend to agree with BeBu Lamar. I used Lithium AA's when I had my F4 (in both the MB-20 and MB-21 grips). Lighter than alkalines, and they last a long, long time. No worries about self discharge if the camera sits idle for a while, and no extra cost for a charger.</p>

<p>Is this your vivitar macro focusing teleconverter?<br> http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/uqYAAOSwAuNW8D5q/s-l1600.jpg</p> <p>If so, this is a manual focus non-CPU converter, and it is all but useless on your 70-300mm/f4.5-5.6 AF-S VR. It has no electronic contacts to pass communication between the camera body and master lens, and it can not control the aperture in your 'G' lens.</p>

<p>Just purchased a lens from a Japan eBay seller a couple of weeks ago. Shipping via Japanese Post EMS to Canada was both fast and inexpensive compared to sending the same parcel in the other direction via Canada Post. Lens arrived in less than a week.</p> <p>As my purchase was just under $100 declared value, it cleared customs without any taxes levied. Should your potential purchase exceed the value where it clears tax free (and there seems to be no hard and fast value threshold in my experience) you will only need to pay GST/HST/PST plus a Canada Post handling fee, $9.95 currently.</p> <p>There are no duties applied to SLR camera lenses imported from Japan. You will only be charged the sales taxes applicable in your province.</p>

<blockquote> <p>...but also adjusted to free up the focus tension. I didn't know that focus tension is actually adjustable. So its not just a matter of dried out grease.</p> </blockquote> <p>The only focus tension adjustment on this lens is for the backlash in the CRC helicoid key slot (small brass ring at lower left in the photo above) and if I recall correctly the main focusing helicoid key slot (not visible above). If the backlash is adjusted too "tight", the key(s) can bind in the slot(s). The backlash in the key slots can only wear and loosen with age, so if the focus is stiff I would say it's entirely due to the grease.</p>

<p>The Ais Micro-Nikkor 55/2.8 has a long focus helicoid AND a close range correction helicoid. There is a lot of surface area on all of these helicoid threads, so if the grease dries out and stiffens the least little bit with age, the focusing action can get very, very stiff indeed. I remember servicing one where it was so stiff the focus was essentially locked and solvent was needed to free it up enough to separate the assemblies.</p> <p>It can be serviced so that the focusing action is firm, but fluid.</p><div></div>

<p>... Ai ridge</p><div></div>

<p>That appears to be a factory Ai conversion (I can see the Ai ridge). If you have a photo with the f/stops visible I can confirm 100%.</p>

<p>I see you figured it out. :)</p> <p>We'll need to see a view showing the aperture ring with f/stop numbers visible to determine if it has been converted to Ai.</p>

<blockquote> <p><em>Check to see if the ground glass...</em></p> </blockquote> <p>The AF brackets, et. al. are not on the focusing screen (ground glass). They are on a fixed transparent LCD overlay between the screen and prism.</p> <p>If a reset to factory default settings or Shun's suggestions do not work, as others have noted, it's probably a trip to the repair shop for the D750. :(</p>

<p>Might not be that important a consideration since you are buying from reputable vendors, but the AiS version of the 50/1.4 is prone to oil contamination of the aperture blades. None of the Ai or 'K' versions of the 50/1.4 seem to suffer from that malady.</p>

<blockquote> <p><em>Gil Gitelman provided pictures and a serial number, 3802059. According to Braczko ...</em></p> </blockquote> <p>Suggest you post that picture, or a link to it, here. It's possible the lens has been Ai converted. If it has a factory Ai converision, it is for all intents and purposes an Ai lens.</p> <p>s/n 3802059 is a late model 2nd "K" version (<a href="http://www.destoutz.ch/lens_50mm_f1.4_3777777.html">link</a>) of the non-Ai 50/1.4. Mechanically and optically, save for the aperture ring, it's identical to the 1977 Ai model. Inside, it is really built to last.</p>

<p>Unless you use / have used an FX or 35mm film body and want to compare "focal length", or more specifically the angle of view, of the same lens on both formats, forget about crop factors, math, and everything else related to the subject. It's a completely meaningless, confusing and useless exercise. As others have noted, focal length does not change. 50mm is 50mm, regardless of the box attached to the back of the lens.</p> <p>Instead, use the Focal Length Simulator link that Rodeo Joe gave above if you want to see what any particular focal length or zoom range will look like on your D3200. Nikon also has a similar simulator on their website.<br> http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/simulator/index.htm</p>

<p>This may be helpful to you:<br> http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfmseries/fm2n/fm2manual/index5.htm</p>

<blockquote> <p>I have nikon fm2n. ... I want a new K screen. Ive seen the screens for fm3a and i think these fit.</p> </blockquote> <p>Yes, the FM3A screens (K3, E3) will fit in your FM2N.<br> - </p> <blockquote> <p>Not sure if my screen at moment is K or K2. If i put a new screen in will i have to make any metering adjustments.</p> </blockquote> <p>If your FM2N has the original screen, it is a K2. It will be easy enough to tell when you change the screen. The K2 screen has a tiny notch in the tab on the edge of the screen, while the original K screens for the earlier FM/FE series do not. I switched out a K2 for an E3 in an FE2 several years ago and saw no appreciable difference in metering (i.e. less than 1/3 stop).</p>

<p>I suspect that you will need to come in from the top to access the meter assembly.</p>

<blockquote> <p>I will obviously have to pull the top cover (damn ASA ring!) then get a good look at the needle.</p> </blockquote> <p>If you remove the focusing screen, you will have enough access to the meter needle to see if it is actually bent. See here:<br> http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfeseries/fefmshared/html/screenchange.htm</p>