lsaavedra

I always burn two copies when back-up is needed, one of each.

Point at where you want to read. Press the AE lock button (*). Recompose the scene and shoot. I'm not sure of meaning of your question. hope this helps

Hi all, I guess this question has been asked before but I cannot find

the proper answer. I would like to know the aproximate exposure

settings needed to capture the star trails in full night. I can

imagine that yhis will need several hours of exposure, but, what

diafragm? how many hours is the minimun required the get that effect?

I will be using a 100 iso film. Thanks in advance

Hi all. I would like to kown about opinions from people who moved

from film to digital. Did you keep your analog bodies? How often do

you use them now? and for what? (just B&W stuff or slides too).

Thanks in advance

Hi there! don't know much about photoshop and digital editing so this

question might be pretty basic to some of you. I'd like to know how

to correct the color temperature of JPGs or TIFs in PS. When I shoot

RAW is very simple to do it with the built-in RAW converter of PS CS,

but what if I don't shoot RAW or it comes to scanned images? The RAW

converter plugin does a fantastic job in this matter but I'm not able

to get the same look when editing the picture with levels. Which is

the best tool for that? and how to do it? Thanks a lot in advance

Me too!! ...and no planing to switch to digital by now. I still get excellent results with the slides/nikon coolscan IV combo. The future... nobody knows, but my two digital compact cameras cover my needs so far.

 

best regards

another vote for 24-70 L. maybe a bit on the heavy side but it's a terrific lens

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic2/82915

thanks folks. I will try out some of your tips and will let you know about the results

Hi everyone, I would like to know if anyone has had the same strange

stains on their negs. Take a look at the <a

href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=390548">attached

pictures</a> and observe the dyes on the upper side. They are not

randomly allocated. They are exactly in between two of the negative

holes. It happened to me several times when I use D-76 (1:1), mostly

with FP4+ but not only. I always use fresh solutions and set

carefully the temperature. I am pretty sure it is related to the

development process because it only happens with the upper wheel of

the tank (in case I develop two rolls at the time). I always put

developer enough to fully cover the wheels (600 mL for a minimum

required volume of 525 mL). Two immersions per minute is what I use

to do regardless the total developing time. All my chemistry is

stored in glass bottles protected from the light. Quite frankly, I

don�t think it had something to do with my developing habits because

I didn�t notice anything similar when I use HC-110. What do you think

it could be? Any tip will be appreciated

Which are the beneficts of using rapid selenium toner on film? Kodak

says on his technical publication that it may cause a slight contrast

increase but nothing else. I'm not interested in raise the contrast

of my negs but I could live wit it if I get some protection effect or

increased durability as in prints. Thanks in advance

I have the macroflash mentioned above and I have noticed that when I

shoot macros in Manual mode I cannot get properly exposed negs when I

go f11, f16 or further. No matter what shutter speed I use. for

instance 1/250 @ f8 looks great but 1/125 @ f11 looks a bit

underexposed. These two shots are suposed to have the same exposure

but for some reason the flash output is not doing a good job. This

flash has TTL capabilities and as far as I know (pls correct me if

I'm mistaken) TTL measurement will compensate the light output for

each shot when needed (asuming we're in coverage range). I'm not an

expert in flash photography (actually I don't know almost anything)

so I don't know if I'm not taking anything into account. Any tip in

this matter will be appreciated. Thanks in advance

I wonder how long can I store D-76 stock before it becomes useless.

Has anybody cheked the lifetime for this developer? I store all my

solvents in glass bottles protected from the ligth. Another question,

I use exlusively the 1:1 dilution from the stock so could I prepare

it directly by disolvig the powder in double the water? what about

the lifetime for this approach? thanks in advance

Hi folks, just a silly question. I use exclusevely ilford film (FP4

Pan F and HP5) and almost always I get blown out skies in bright

suny days, Even when the total contrast of the scene is not more than

8 stops (measured between the open blue sky and the shadows). These

films are supposed to have more tonal range, am I right? my chosen

developer is HC110 dil B but some times I use dil H to increase dev

times with pan F. Need your advice in this matter. probably reducing

development times is the first choice to solve the "problem" but what

about the shadows. I'd like to know you experience with these

situation. Thanks in advance

probably this question is been answered before but I couldn't find

the proper answer in the archives. I use exclusively Ilfod film

(PanF, FP4 and HP5) I've been using D-76 1:1 for some time now with

excellent results but life time for this developer is too short for

my habits. I decided to try with HC-110 dilution B at the recommended

time. This chemical is much easier to mix and the lifetime is higher.

The negative looks too much contrasty to me compared to D-76. My

question is, Does anyone of you had the same experience? What about

reducing the developing time about 15 or 20%? or less agitation? (I

give 4 inmersion at the begining and 2 inmersion every minute for the

rest of the time). Maybe this combo is not a great deal, what is your

experience wiht it? have you tried higher dilutions than Dil B?

Thank you all in advance

The only thing I can tell you is: if you can afford, go for them. I also own an Elan 7 but this is my backup body since I usually shoot with an EOS 1v. Anyhow I still believe that elan 7 is a really nice gear. I bought my first L lens last year in NY and I felt in love with it. After that I purchased two more L lenses to fill the range and now I shoot from 17mm to 200mm in L-perspective. Believe me, it's another world. Never used the cheap glass since then (and I still have 3 of those lenses); anyway I think I will keep them. Is not worth to sell them, you might want to go arround one of those non-recommended neighborhoods anytime, right?

I do feel the same. My Elan 7 looks much sharpper than my 1v when you look through the viewfinder. But this is only in the viewfinder since I have never noticed any blurred or grany image in the negatives. I guess it has something to do with the fact that they are removable.

Yes I do. The only problen is that you cannot use the filters and the hood at the time

ok, Iown a nikon coolscan IV and I use mostly color negatives (mainly Reala) and slides (mainly Provia 100F)

Just a silly question: wich of these options provides better quality

scans, Multipass scan set at 16 (where noise is reduced 4 times) or

Long pass exposure (where 2 different passes are done, one for the

lights and other for the shadows). Pls correct me if I am mistaken.

Thanks a lot

I'd like to use hc110 more diluted than solution B but ilford spec

sheets don't publish any recommended time for that dilutions. Has

anyone experimented this before. BTW I am using Ilford film (pan F+,

FP4+ and HP5+). I just wanna know a starting point, I know I must

tune the correct time by myself according with my exposure and

agitation preferences. Thanks a lot

I was calibrating the correct ISO setting for FP4 according to ansel

adams recommendations last week when I realised that my two bodies

(1v and Elan 7) read the same subject with 2/3 or 1 stop EV offset.

My 1v needs to apply 2/3 EV more exposure than my Elan 7 in any

lighting condition. I know that evaluative mettering algorithms are

different in both cameras and that 1v has spot mettering and the elan

7 does not. The experiment set up was as follows: hazy daylight

(cloudy sky), gray cardboard on shade, EF 70-200mm f/4L USM lens used

focused at infinity @ 200mm to completly fill the frame, I was trying

to expose for the zone 1, center averaged mettering mode.

My question is: has anyone noticed something similiar with these two

bodies or with any other two different EOS bodies? I have never

noticed any incorrect exposure with any of these two cameras, even in

slides but since my eye is not trained in this matter I wouldn't

trust in any subjective impression. 1 stop EV difference seems to be

a lot of difference to me, taking in to account that thay are two

Canon bodies. It wouldn't surprise me to hear about differences

between whatever camera you want and a handheld lightmeter for

instance.

Thanks in advance

I have the same "problem" with my Elan 7 but not with my 1v. I demanded canon's technical service for a solution but they didn't give me any satisfactory answer. They've just said there is no problem with the focusing system. To my eyes it looks like the camera is not focusing in the same plane where the iluminated red square is pointing at, and this is simply anoying (I don´t wear glasses and of course I have checked the diopter wheel too). If your are doing macro work this is mot a problem but if you intend to use your camera for sports or any other action scenes you are doomed.

If someone know any solution for this particular I would greatly appreciate your tips. thanks to all

I forgot to mention that is my understanding that these two chemicals are virtually the same.

I know this question is been asked before but none of the responses

is the one I want. I would like to know why these two developers have

the same processing times for some films and different ones for other

(according to Ilford data spec). I shoot almost exclusively Ilford

films (pan F, FP4 and HP5) and I use D-76 due to make up convenience

and diluted 1:1 due to one shot use convenience. If I follow the

ilford recomendations for D-76 (different times than for ID-11) am I

doing anything wrong? Should I use the times given for ID-11

developer even if I use D-76? Thanks in advance