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jerry_breault

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Posts posted by jerry_breault

    1st camera - Omega 45D or 45E

    in Large Format

    Posted

    The Toyo/Omega 45D is the same as the current Toyo C without the easily removed bellows. A couple years ago I bought a D, 8 lensboards, hard luggage case, and an additional short monorail for about $400. I removed the long rail and put on the short rail and haven't looked back. I use it with the standard 3 lens kit, 90, 150 and 210. I do not do studio work, this is my field camera. We just throw the "handy carrying case" into the trunk of the car and off we go.

     

    Jerry

    Need Advice For A Bad Case of 'Buck Fever'

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Scott,

     

    Since this was close to home, you have opportunity to go back and catch the shot the way you want it. Note the lighting and weather conditions you think would be ideal, and watch for them. When the weather is perfect, get back there for the right light with tons f film. Start shooting before the light is perfect, then you won't miss it. The difference between hunting and scouting is whether or not you bag what you wanted. I do a lot more scouting than hunting.

     

    Jerry

    repairmen and lenses,cameras, guns, watches

    in Large Format

    Posted

    The best results you can get on any repair is to return whatever it is to as new performance. Parts can be cleaned, adjusted, or replaced, an item can be repaired or rebuilt/refurbished/renewed, but the end results are a device that performs to factory specs. If you want better than that, then you need to do business with someone that can re-engineer out the weaknesses that the factory left in. This paradigm holds true for everything, cameras, watches, guns, cars, stereos, bicycles, everything. To use your carpenter analogy, there are framers, finish carpenters, cabinet makers, and fine furniture craftsmen. Bringing your Stickley Sideboard to a framer to have a repair done will likely bring poor results, likewise, it would probably take forever for the furniture craftsman to build a garage or put up a fence.

    In order to be satisfied, make no assumptions. Be specific when explaining the conditions you want corrected. Also, ask the service person how they will eliminate the condition, what the performance results will be, and how can you be sure. Also, demand they provide proof of performance and some written warranty on their work. If they are not specific in their reply, or will not provide proof or a warranty, contact another repairer.

     

    The fact that these people called you when it was done, and were providing a chart of actual speeds is good. Also, letting you talk to the technician is good. Part of the problem may be that you presumed that a CLA of the shutter would solve the slow speed problem. Has the problem been solved? Have you tested it? Since it now performs to factory spec, the service provider did ensure the shutter perfomed as new. If you want better than that, you probably need to find a higher end shop, or buy a more precise shutter.

     

    There are bad repair places out there, but there are also some good ones. This holds true for lawyers, doctors and dentists too. The consumer has to be able to tell the difference in order to protect themselves. When you find a good one, spread the word. If you feel you've been cheated by a bad one, seek compensation. If all you ever find are bad ones, your evaluation criteria may need revising.

     

    Jerry

    Is a 4x5 monorail practical in the field?

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Robert,

     

    I use a Toyo 45D in the field with the short rail. I'm basically trunk shooter, but when I have ventured out a little, I carry my lenses, meter, and a few holders in the large Domke shoulder bag I use for the Nikon 35mm stuff. I tote the Toyo by hand holding it upside down by the rail. My lovely assistant (the Mrs.) carries the tripod. I wouldn't tackle the Alps this way, but for a short trek into the woods it works. I'd love a more portable set up, but haven't felt enough pain yet to spend the money.

     

    Jerry

    Normal development time test

    in Large Format

    Posted

    I use Oriental Seagul VCFB Glossy paper on a Beseler 45 MXT with a condensor head, I develop the paper in Dektol at 1:2. This all matters. With this setup, I get from absolute black to paper white with 1.3 units of negative density. I have found that, with my EI based on Z1 .10 above b+f, and Z9 at about 1.15, I get a good Z8 at 1.0. While that is low by some peoples standards, I find that it gives me what I would call normal print contrast.

     

    While finding Z9 on paper is not to difficult, Z8 is easier for me to judge than Z9 when metering a scene. Likewise, I find it easier to base the exposure on Z3 or Z4 instead of Z2. Every now and then I have to fight off the urge to adjust what I do to fit someone elses view of normal and remind myself that if it works, don't fix it.

     

    Jerry

    Processing Problems

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Is the developer less than 6 months old? Ilford states a lifetime of 24 months unopened and 4 months is a half full bottle. If you call Ilford, they'll decode the date code on the bottle and tell you how old it is.

     

    Do you dilute directly from the bottle just before use, or do you keep pre-diluted stock on hand? Once mixed, the life of the developer is dramatically shortened.

     

    Do you store it in Ilford's container, or do you transfer the solution to another container? Not all containers are created equal.

     

    Jerry

    Referfence for Caltar Lenses

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Chris,

     

    The 3 lenses you are interest in are made by Rodenstock. The 150 and 210 are Sironar N lenses and the 90 6.8 is the Grandagon N. These are first quality goods that are branded for Calumet. I own all 3 of these and love them. They have not disappointed me in any way, and I reccommend them highly whenever I have the opportunity.

     

    Jerry

    Film speed

    in Large Format

    Posted

    Depends on what you shoot. Outside doing landscapes, I use 400 exposed at 200. Because of the use of smaller apertures to control depth of field, I feel I need the speed to stop the wind effects. In smaller formats I use 100 exposed at 50. Enlarging both up to 16x20, the LF prints still blow the other stuff away.

     

    Jerry

    Development times for Jobo

    in Large Format

    Posted

    I used the my tank manually before I got a CPE2+. I agitated by rolling it back and forth using the edge of a counter so the tank would be level. Couple of points:

    1. I tested before and after development developer temps and found no difference using a 75 degree dev temp, so water bath was not necessary.

    2. The tank is designed to be filled as it rotates, I found filling, capping and agitating without rotating caused uneven development. It was subtle, but it would show up in large areas of sky. I suggest you find some form of stationary roller set up and use a flexible funnel to fill it while it rotates.

    3. Use the 2509n reels. These were modified to improve development using 6 sheets, on the old 2509 Jobo advises to only use 4 sheets. Once you work these issues out, you will be very pleased with the results.

     

    Cheers

    Jerry

    Recommmendations for 4 x 5 b/w sheet film

    in Large Format

    Posted

    For 4x5 I use TMax400 and D23 1:1 in a Jobo CPE. Used to use Xtol 1:1 and TMaxRS 1:7, but to my eye, the D23 is more pleasing. Before the Jobo, I used home made tubes and closely monitored chemical temps in a waterbath, never had any real problems and the results look just like the Jobo.

     

    Jerry

    4x5 sheet processing

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Steve,

     

    I use the same tank and reels. The short answer is yes, you could use less, and yes, 250ml would probably be ok. But, going to less than that could cause coverage problems. You need to be sure that the tank is leveled as it rotates so that the top and bottom of the reel gets covered by developer.

     

    What I do is process in batches. I don't shoot a lot, so I may go a month or two until I get enough sheets at N, N+/- 1 and 2 to go thru an entire liter of stock developer. I then spend a weekend doing film and contact sheets.

     

    Jerry

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