larry n.

The issue has been discussed ad nauseum on various forums. Here is the link to one disucsssion:

 

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=15157287.

 

Basically it comes down to this: there are dozens if not hundreds of cameras out there and Adobe does not test them all. Nikon's software engineers on the other hand know the response of their sensors inside and out.

 

In good lighting, shouldn't be a problem. But in tricky light situations, I found ACR to be very frustrating, whereas Nikon Capture did a superb job.

My experience has been that Nikon software, while klunky, does a far better job than Photoshop ACR with color balance and white balance on Nikon cameras when the lighting is difficult. If you have everything perfectly lit in a studio, Photoshop ACR is nice.

The 9000 will give you good scans of 35mm, but it will not be the same as the 5000:

 

(1) The 9000 has different light source that is optimized for MF; don't know which is better for 35mm;

 

(2) The 5000 is faster (which means if you "upgrade" your scans will take a bit longer;

 

(3) the automatic feeders don't work on the 9000.

"Thanks for that. It appears not to be so popular, maybe worth $150US"

 

Are you sure about that? That seems way too cheap for a Schneider multicoated lens that can cover 5x7! Are you looking at completed auction for specimens in good shape?

Can anyone point to a review of the Tokina and the Tamron and Sigma?

 

If 28mm is not needed, the Nikon 35-70 would be an easy choice. However, it would be nice to have 28mm, and the 28-70 Nikon is too much lens for me.

Can someone recommend a high-quality studio light set for an non-professional?

 

The main reason is to be able to shoot large format indoors without the

frustration of a tiny flash desgined for 35mm. I would like to be able to

informal portraits, still life shots, and other creative applications. I will

not be doing any formal "Sears" type portraits.

 

As I am not a pro, I am not looking for, and cannot justify, high-end equipment.

 

I just want a decent, dependable monlight or two, or a powerpack and one or two

strobes, as well as light stand(s) and umbrella(s).

 

What brands or configurations should I look at? Is it better to buy a "set" or

a la carte? The maximum I can spend for the whole thing is $1200.

Does anyone have a feel for how the Sigma 24-70 and 28-70 (both are f2.8)

compare to each other and to the Nikon 28-70 AF-S

 

Thanks!

When shopping for a used D2H, is there any such thing as a US version? I know

that with Nikon lenses, B&H imports non-US versions, but I never saw a non-US

DSLR. Also, when buying used does it matter?

Is this a good time to buy Ai and Ais lenses? Seems their prices have dropped

again (maybe because of uncertainty re: Nikon's future plans).

"They will probably take it back."

 

Of course they'll take it back. They have to, per their sales agreement says. The real issue is that he's trying hard to think of a reason to keep the lens because he likes it.

 

(If you do return it, keep pestering them until they refund the shipping. Maybe that will encourage them to be more careful with the next customer.)

I have bought several EX and LN- lenses from KEH, and in each case the EX lenses were in terrible shape. I returned them promptly, and in some cases, it was so flagrant I was able to recover shipping. Maybe next time I'll try their BGN lenses.

What is the name of the cable that allows you to connect a medium format lens

to a flash unit?

If I'm not mistaken, that lens sold on e b a y recently, so he might not have it in his hands yet, but he wants to make that he's ready to go the minute it arrives. Been there!

You could still have a DSLR in between full frame and cropped that had VR (say a 20mm x 30 mm CCD. That would give a crop factor of only 1.2, hardly anything).

How is 665 different from 55?

Hi, I just started shooting LF, and trying to decide what films to use. Not a

big surprise, there are much fewer emulsions than for 35mm!

 

(1) Where is Tri-X? Is TXP 320 the same as the Tri-X I'm used to for 35mm?

 

(2) What exactly is Fortepan?

 

(3) Fuji Instant film: 3000 speed seems very high. What is this film?

 

(4) Any other favorite emulsions (slide, color, b&w, anything), please list

them!

Can anyone comment on Symmar-S? I've seen them for great price, though I'm not sure they are multicoated (or if that matters).

Does anyone know when Nikon will stop fixing the metering problem? Mine has not had it, but I suppose it could at any minute.

 

Btw, I've had both, and the D2H is better than the D70 in every way I can think of except two:

 

(1) It's big and heavy: make sure you are ok with that.

(2) No built-in flash.

 

The AF system is fantastic, but after a year I still have not mastered it.

They're sort of legit. I bought an SB-80DX speedlight from them a few years back. I opened the box as I was leaving the store and noticed that the diffusion dome was missing. Half an hour later, they came up with the dome (probably took it from another box).

 

What I didn't notice was that they had sold me an imported speedlight at the going price for the U.S. version (which at the time was about $25 more than the import).

 

So, if you're careful you should be ok, but don't expect Mother Teresa to be behind the counter.

"dull and life-less images."

 

Funny: I did not write that review of the 85/2 Ais, but I could have. The sample I had bought used lacked contrast in comparison with the 85/1.4, which was remakable. FYI, I was shooting B&W at the time, which is a little harder on lenses. The 85/2 might be fine for color pictures.

Here is a 100% crop from one of the images. The sun is not in the picture. The background behind the bird's beak is bright.<div></div>

My question is not about focal length, sharpness, focussing speed and

accuracy, or VR. It's the performance of the lens against a bright

background.

 

This weekend I had the opportunity to photograph a large wood-pecker

at a fairly close distance. Many of the photographs were

disppointing because there was a something bright behind the bird

(i.e. the sky).

 

Given that wildlife tends to be found outdoors, often seen in front

of the sky, is this lens suitable at all for wildlife photography?

How useful are the different Mamiya 7 lenses. If you could have only

one, which would it be? Only 2? Only 3?

Do I need to buy an EH-6 AC Adapter?

I used to have the 80-400, but sold it in favor of the 70-200 VR for these reasons:

 

(1) I wanted the focussing speed of an AF-S lens;

 

(2) I wanted a faster f2.8 lens;

 

(3) I bought a 400mm f/3.5 with TC301 for the 400mm-800mm range.

 

Image quality at 400mm was not on my list at all. In fact, I would say that at 400mm, the 80-400 beats the living daylights out of the 70-200 VR + TC in terms of (1) price (2) size and convenience and (3) sharpness.

 

Furthermore, while the build quality of the 70-200 is better, I often used the 80-400 in the rain with no ill effects whatsoever (not even cosmetically).