heller_harris

<p>Hi -<br>

Personally, I like it the way that it is now. I might balance the exposure a wee bit, as the child pops a little more than I'd like.<br>

Heller</p>

<p>Try the home and garden store, where you can look at the white, paperlike material that they use to wrap shrubs for the winter. It's very inexpensive, sells by the yard/meter, and comes in one-meter width on large rolls. The material available here (the UK) works - I used it for a large frame once - but it may be different where you live. BTW, they sell the same material in black, which could be used to tease the sides. It's not perfectly opaque, like Duvateen, but it's cheap. <br>

Take a look and let us know if it works for your project. <br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>David,<br>

Could you tell us where you get the scans done? Do they offer mail order? I live near Norwich and would love to find a source of high quality scans.<br>

thanks,<br>

Heller</p>

<p>Maybe you want a journalism school.<br>

Also - Consider a program in the UK. You can complete an MA in one year, instead of two, and at a fraction of the cost of a US school.</p>

<p>The P-400 can turn out good colour prints, but I have trouble producing B&W prints w/o a cast. The glossy prints look pretty good, but (IMO) the matt prints just don't work.<br>

I believe that the prints are 7.6X10, not 8X10. (I think that the P-440 does 8X10) You can buy paper that's perforated to do smaller sizes, but I usually cram smaller prints on a page and cut. You can buy paper and ribbon packages on eBay for less money. I feel that the lack of options is a plus, as I would get lost in the multiplicity of paper and ink choices for inkjet. <br>

The printer is fine for casual use. Send out the few that need special handling.<br>

Good luck.</p>

<p>Hi - Your card shows some perfectly nice casual portraits, but IMO most of the shots don't look like headshots. The large shot (lower left) looks the closest, but it's not your strongest shot. Do a little more research and see what actors in your area are using. Things have changed in the last few years - color, most notably - but try to stick to the formula that Casting Agents, etc. are using.<br>

Just my 2 cents... Good luck.</p>

<p>PS - If you live in a warm, sunny part of the world, then you can forget the studio and shoot outdoors.</p>

<p>If you're patient, you will find some good gear at low prices.<br>

I picked up a heavy-duty boom for very little (£30) on eBay. It's branded as Hensel, but looks like something that Manfotto makes for other people. It's looks to be identical to <a href="<strong>http://tinyurl.com/85gq4l</strong> "> this, </a> but I use a heavier, more robust stand. <br>

I found the stand, a rolling studio stand, from a motion picture grip & lighting rental company. They often sell off used equipment, and I paid very little (£25) for it. It's not pretty but is very effective, and it's designed for the oversized stud that the boom uses. Don't know where you live, but most good-sized cities will have at least one company with this sort of gear. Large cities will have several competing grip houses. Look for the dowdiest, cheapest one of the lot.<br>

Good luck</p>

<p>Don't know about 35mm converters for the lenses, but they make 35mm backs for the ETRSi.</p>

Hi -

Anyone know if you can safely wet mount in a Minolta Scan Multi II?

thanks,

HH

HI -

Anyone recognize this piece? It's labeled a "Mamiya RB Film Pack Adapter, w/ G-Lock". I assume that it's a

Graflok type back that must have fit the original RB, but I don't know which film pack it accepted. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Heller

B&H Photo has a <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/FrameWork/charts/comp_mamiyamed_10.html"> LENS COMPARISON

CHART </a> for Mamiya 6X7 lenses.

As I understand it.... The Studios would project everything in digital now, if they could. The cost savings for

them would be tremendous: They strike thousands of prints for major releases, each of which cost $3,000 + (last

time I checked), so they could save millions with each release. The capital investment, however, must be made by

the exhibitors, who don't see much of the savings at all. They'll reduce the number of projectionists, but

that's relatively minor.

I believe that the studios have come up with a new deal to finance/provide the digi-projectors. They're in a

hurry to start with digital 3-D, which won't go until they have a critical mass of digital systems in place.

They already project some digital. One of my students projects for a major UK theatre chain, and he showed me

the equipment. (For digital, the studios ship a fairly large hard-drive unit; no DVD's, just yet.) Within a year

or so, this theatre will be 60 film/40 digital.

Re: Editing - Movie editing has been digital for years. It's still important to see a cut projected, so they

often pay an apprentice to cut a work print to match the latest digital cut.

HI -

Wonder what this will mean for those of us still using film. Anyone know the degree to which motion picture

film production subsidized still film manufacture?

HH

HI -

Anyone recognize this filter?

It's marked "62mm Nikon Polar Japan". I bought it next to nothing on eBay, but discovered that it has this odd

mount. If you look at the photo, you should be able to see a lip that covers the threads for half of the filter.

It also looks as though it's made from two pieces of glass, with an air-space between them.

Thanks,

Heller<div></div>

In response to your email: Hot lights are a common name for continuous lights, like those used in film

production. As Fred said in the previous post, they're hot.

Gregory Crewdson uses hot lights for his LF work. Take a look at the production shots in this <a

href="http://www.aperture.org/crewdson/"> Aperture profile. </a>

Did you check the manual? (If you don't have one, then try Butkus/Orphan Cameras.) I haven't seen the

single-latch back in some time, but I seem to remember that there is a little trick to opening it. (To prevent

accidental opening?)

I've had good experiences with KEH, but they should send the back that you purchased. Call them on Monday

morning and I'm sure that they'll straighten it out.

Good luck.

It may be cheaper to use <a href="http://Dr5.com"> Dr5 </a> in the US. He's very good and his process allows you

to get chromes from other B&W films, too.

Thanks, everyone. <p>

Heller

Hi - <P>

Nice job, Craig. <P>

I have a 110A that Four Designs modified to take pack films. I love what it does, but that's moot if the film

disappears. Has anyone re-modded from pack film to 4X5? Once the back is cut down, the mod must be easier, but

I'm not up to grinding new cams. And without an accurate rangefinder, it would lose a lot of its allure for me. <P>

thanks,

Heller

HI -

There's a fair bit of info on correctly adjusting the floating lens element, but I'd like to know what happens if

you do

NOT focus the floating element. Is the whole image slightly out of focus? Is it uniform, or do the edges go

softer than they might otherwise? Anyone have any images that were intentionally de-focused this way?

thanks,

Heller