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Posts posted by denisbergeron
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<p>Hello technical bugs hunter,<br>
I use Opera and Safari as web browser.<br>
With Opera, the "Post" button doesn't work at all. I got no reaction when I try to answer to question or post one.<br>
The same button doesn't pose any problem under Safari.<br>
Thank You,</p>
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<p>I use lot old manual focus lens. <br>
I want to buy a split focusing screen for my 5dMarkII.<br />Of course, I read a lot a post about theses and find a lot of provider of theses systems.<br />From 25$ to 110$ for the same kind of Split Focusing Screen<br />Does someone have some experience with :</p>
<ul>
<li>linkdelight.com</li>
<li>focusingscreen.com</li>
<li>brightscreen.com</li>
<li>and the ebay seller jinfinance </li>
</ul>
<p>I can't find a direct comparison between them.<br>
Thank you for you input.<br>
Denis Bergeron </p>
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<p>Oups Helios 40 not 44 that's the 58mm</p>
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<p>
<p>You can also find Russian made m42 mount manual focus "Helios 44" or "Helios 44-2" it's a 85mm f1.5 incredibly sharp. I have the first model, it's suberbe.</p>
<p> </p>
</p>
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<p>Adapter for MD to EOS exist.<br>
I don't have one, I don't know the lost of light or image quality.<br>
http://rugift.com/photocameras/minolta-md-canon-af-adapter.htm</p>
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<p>I prefert the camera to be made somewhere in Africa. It will reduce cost and help a developping country.</p>
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Usualy to recover from the flash card you should connect the card <b>directly</b> to the computer with a card reader. If you use the camera to read the card, the camera made a "translation" and your computer can't access the card directly. <br>
If you don't have a card reader, go and get one for less than 20$ anywhere. <br>
You can also use it to transfert your photo to you computer, it's usualy faster than thru the computer.
By the way, even if you have a firewire 800 on you mac, buy a USB2 reader, it will be faster.
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Are you able to manual focus the lens ?
The 50mm f1.4 is a very fragile lens. Mine broke this week-end with the same symptome.
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What inexpensive is for you ? And what kind of learning to you want to do ? <br>
You can have older Pentax Screw Mount (m42) 20mm f3.5 for 100$. <br>
<a href="http://rugift.com/photocameras/mir_20m_lens_for_canon_eos.htm">Or you can get a russian mir 20mm f3.5
with EOS mount for 180$</a> <br>
<a href="http://rugift.com/photocameras/mir_20m_lens.htm">Or event the same with m42 for 149$</a> plus <a
href="http://rugift.com/photocameras/canon-eos-adapter-focus-confirm.htm"> the focus confirmation adaptor
for another 50$</a> <br>
I give rugift as a link, but you can get it elsewhere also. Search for the lens in google.
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Thank you Baivab Mitra, you got the right answer.
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Hello everyone,
Since this week, my old 5d (I buy it on march 2006) with 2x the counter start to write slooooooooooooly on my
olds Extreme IV and Extreme III Sandisk 4g cards.
2-3s for one pictures
I reformat the cards
I try to check the custom function menu, the last thing I chance was the mirror lookup... so I check every
setting to see if something can influence the writing speed and I don'T find anything....
If someone have any ideas, I will take them.
Thank you all !
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I use a lot of m42 lens on my ElanIIe, 10d, 20d and 5d, I have the normal focusing screen on all camera and all my lenses focus on infinit. I use m42 lens on canon since 2001 without noticiable problem (except for the 8mm peleng who hit the mirror on the 5d). I have only one adaptor and it's a old one without focus confirmation. I buy it on ebay.
Look at http://rugift.com/photocameras/m42_lenses_adapters.htm you can even find one with focus confirmation chip.
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Promaster is not even far like a L lens. Other manufacturer that make lens good enough to be compare to the L lens are the EX series from Sigma.
If you want to go in the extreme wide, try the Sigma 12-24 EX, that a good lens and a wide one
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Yes, I try, and I'm not the only one who complait about this.<br>
I lost a full day of try to save the setting. look here : <br> <a href="http://livedocs.adobe.com/en_US/Photoshop/10.0/help.html?content=WS739D7239-24A7-452b-92F9-80481C544F25.html">http://livedocs.adobe.com/en_US/Photoshop/10.0/help.html?content=WS739D7239-24A7-452b-92F9-80481C544F25.html</a>
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Hello everyone,
It's a silly question, but I don't find any information anywhere, even on the
photoshop site, someone ask the same question but without answer.
Did someone knows how to set photoshop cs3 Camera Raw to convert the raw 12 bit
to a 16 bits images insteed of the default 8 bits ?
I have a 5d and when I open image in cs3, Camera raw open it as a 8 bits (the
line in the bottom of the screen in Camera Raw) I have to click on the line,
choose 16 bits every single time I open a file in CS3, that's very silly.
I read all the document search throw google more than once... I don't find a way
to save this setting. In bridge you can save setting of camera raw, but not this
one.
In CS2, Camera Raw convert automaticly in 16 bits, in CS3 it's 8 bits. Is it a
bug introduced by Adobe to sell the CS4 suite ?
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I do a lot of birds with the 500mm f4, I use a mono on my waist with a ballhead completely loose. This setup give-me the posibility of handholding the 500 without fatigue for long period.
Look in my portfolio you will see photos of me with the 500....
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Why in the world someone will use only one lens. If it's a question of budget, get a 50mm.
For my self, I work with a full frame and if I have to use only one lens, it will be my 85mm f1.2, because it is a fast lens, a portrait lens, a real fun lens, a small telephoto. and a very, very very sharp lens.
My second choise will be the Sigma 12-24mm, maybe it's not the best sharp lens like the 24-105mm but, what a field of view, what a composition nightmare, but what Wow picture go out of this one.
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Forget to mention : I'm in Canada, here the Dell and the Apple have the same price (ᄆ50$) of difference.
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It's time to me to change my monitor. Il hope to find the perfect monitor with
the better resolution and the better color management.
I think that the 30 inches LCD have the better resolution out there, but which
one have the better color management,I'm looking for the Apple or Dell monitor,
but if someone have another brand to suggest, do it!
Actually, I'm on PC, but also thinking of switching to Mac for my next computer
that,s why I look at the Apple, but I know that both computer will work on both
platform.
Someone here can point me of test or informations about the color of theses
monitors... I try google and the dpr search engine, but I don't find any good
result.
Did someone have experience with both monitor?
Thank you everybody
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For me the question should be : "Why someone will not..."<br>
If I can buy a bigger than 24x36 sensor with same quality lenses, I will buy it right away just for the DOF control.
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Marc,<br>
I can confirm, Sheldon is right.
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I have the Arax T&S 35mm you can find some sample on my portfolio <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/5007672"> here </a>
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@ Pete : The Sigma is 6.3 and it will focus on any Canon bofy because it send false information to the body. <br> <br>
@ Luis : I have the Canon 100-400 L for more than 4 years. And I can tell you, with my experiance, the dusts problem is a myth. I use it regulary, maybe a little less since I have the 500mm f4, but I use it because it is light. I also use it with the 1.4x tamron because this TC don'T inform the body of its presence. So, the 400 can focus with the 1.4x in place.
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I do some IR photography with my 10d or 5d. I think the 40d will do the same. Use a tripod, use a r72 or other IR filter in front of you lens. 2 minutes ? 30 seconds in full sun light at f4.<br>
<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2720157">You</a> <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2624109">can</a> <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2619976">see</a> <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2619927">some</a> <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1743339">samples</a> <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1742568">in</a> <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1735540">my</a> <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1686447">portfolio.</a><br>
<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2628450">With the 10d or other camera</a>
RZ67 back doesn't lock into
in Medium Format
Posted
<p>Hi everybody,<br>
After seven year of thinking about it I got a rz67, almost new.<br>
Come in pieces apart!<br>
I attach every part into the body.... I remove the film holder lot of time and reput it without problem... I remove the flim holder to see how to put film onit... I try to put it back and then I can't slide the lock to lock the film holder to the body !<br>
Huch ! I read and reread the manual... and then the brain go off!<br>
Google all the way ! Can't find anything....<br>
Hope simply someone here already had this kind of problem and tell me what I'm doing wrong.<br>
Thank you,<br>
Denis Bergeron</p>