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b_christopher

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Posts posted by b_christopher

    3-point lighting in limited space. Advice needed:

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Position and type of lights used in making your portraits help to define your style. Traditionally, a rim light will be placed directly behind and low to the ground(relative to camera to subject), pointing up at the back of the subject. Move it up high, above the model and it becomes a hair light. Move it out toward either side of the model and it becomes a kicker/accent light. All of these setups can be generalized as rim lighting. Distances will depend on the power settings, exposure, and effect you wish to achieve. In other words, you will need to experiment to achieve the image you visualize(which you're already doing - the most respected photographers will do the same.) The more you experiment, the less mystery to lighting. Much luck!</p>

    Dropped My 24-70 lens

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>Does anybody know if this can be Repaired by Canon?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>It is almost certainly repairable. I've sent in lenses in much worse shape than what you describe(some in several pieces), and have received them from factory service working like they were new. Call them first - they'll hook you up with repair request form and shipping labels. </p>

    Bouncing light onto subject in shade look bland.

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Merely throwing light(or, bouncing light in this case) on a subject doesn't make a pretty picture. Traditionally, a reflector(or, fill card) is used to reduce contrast(bring up the shadow areas), or as a kicker(accent light from behind.) In portraiture(and other photographic genres, too), think more in terms of "direction of light", "color of light", "quality of light", etc.. I don't know what "Pop" is, but I know interesting light when I see it(a good example of interesting light is this week's Photograph Of The Week - <a href="../photo-of-the-week-discussion-forum/00Yhbh?unified_p=1">LINK</a>.) Personally, I don't like to add supplemental light in my photos, unless I have to; and often, I avoid frontal light. Instead, when on location, I like to find the most interesting light on my subjects by studying the existing lighting options. <br>

    There are five characteristics of light when it pertains to photography: Color, Contrast, Direction, Specular, and Diffuse. The first two can be adjusted post-exposure, and the last three can only be adjusted pre-exposure. Understanding such basics of photographic light will help you make better photos, certainly. Much luck!</p>

    What would you do?

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>There are pros and cons to both the 5D and 1DII models, and many have been mentioned in this thread - and it seems you've already made a decision, but just for future reference(if valuable, at all), I'll throw in a few observations of the two cameras. <br>

    My take is, for photojournalism, the 1DII is a better choice. A camera for photojournalism should be built well and be able to handle a lot of hard use. Much of the photojournalism work puts a lot of physical strain on the equipment - it's just the nature of the job. A 1 series is built for such work; the 5 series, less so. Also, I like that the 1 series shutter button is much more sensitive than the 5 series. Sometimes, it's frustrating to use a 5D in fast action situations(sports, news coverage, wild life, children, etc.), after having used the 1D series, due to its slower shutter reaction. I sometimes feel as if the 1 series shutter has the ability to read my mind. That is, it seems to fire as soon as I see a picture in the viewfinder and think about taking the picture. Another reason why I would choose the 1D series is for the better design of mode selection. You set the shooting mode and it stays. A 5D's mode dial turns with the slightest touch. Swing it over your shoulder to quickly change the vantage point of a scene and bring it back to the eye to shoot and notice the mode has changed, forcing a missed shot.<br>

    I think a 5D may suffice for college work, but for professional photojournalism work, I would certainly choose a 1 series.</p>

    Creating a new website

    in Website Creation

    Posted

    <p>I enjoyed viewing all of the galleries, but the Black and White gallery was most rewarding. I was pleasantly surprised with the two versions of the "Vatican Lady", the new version which you've posted here, and was happy to see the original. It's a beautiful image. It's a great looking website. Thank you for sharing.</p>

    Pocket Wizards, Nikon Speedlights, 503CW

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>The PWs are equipped with 12" pc to miniphone cables. Ultimately, you will mount the Transmitter on the hotshoe of a prism finder, in which case, the length of the cable will be long enough to use without extra manipulation or accessories. If you use the Waist Level Finder, you may need to purchase a longer cable to properly mount the Transmitter to the tripod, and they souldn't be too hard to find. As for the Receivers(and Transmitter / Transceiver), they come with a short strap(4" to 5") which I use to hang on lightstand knobs, so I haven't felt the need to employ any other method of attachment, but certainly, if you need to secure them firmly, Velcro would work nicely.</p>

    A12 'notches' and blotch

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>AFAIK, all production Hasselblad backs have the distinctive "double v" notches. Even the later versions of A12 have them. As for the corners - that is the small space between (auxiliary?)film guide rollers and the edges of the frame. Hopefully, others here on PN with much knowledge of Hasselblad history and technology will chime in and give you more specific information. Below is what the frame edges look like from 3 A12s, ca. 2003.<br /> <img src="http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs048.snc3/13559_1253999502826_1014711138_30808139_8000541_n.jpg" alt="" width="604" height="604" /><br>

    EDIT<br>

    I just noticed the small blotch lower in the frame, in your pictures. You should be able to see or feel that on the edge of the frame. Try removing the insert and darkslide first.</p>

    Making neon colors look NEON

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Make one exposure with a neutral white/gray card in front of the product for white balance reference. Make another exposure without card. In post, set white point to card. Apply white balance value to second exposure. Use light meter(image appears under exposed.) Check monitor calibration.</p>

    Black Lines on Canoscan 8800F

    in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing

    Posted

    <p>Chris,<br>

    The partial black line across the top of the picture looks like the rebate edge of the film. Which means the film's exposed area is just off center. I suspect that it is not a problem with the carrier or the scanner. Although not common, a camera can place the film off center. Would it pose a problem if you cropped the lines out? As for attaching a picture in your post, you need to assign an extension(*.jpg) and size it to 700px wide.<br>

    <img src="http://www.bchristopherphotography.com/temp/temp/chrisragalie_photo.jpg" alt="" /></p>

    Canon 580EX misfiring

    in Canon EOS Mount

    Posted

    <p>Rui, Do you have any reason to believe it may not be the flash tube? How old is the flash? If you're using it to the extent it requires several sets of batteries per day, it wouldn't surprise me to see parts fail. Canon repair includes warranty. You will have time to test it after the service. I guess it's either that or a new unit. Good luck!</p>
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