b_christopher

My Sinar P dropped 4 ft onto concrete during this shoot at a gas station. The lensboard and groundglass popped off but I was able to pick it up, remount on the tripod and continue shooting. The Swedish cameras are tough.

A monopod, flash bracket, an extra flash for ratio, shutter release. Your query implies that you have everything that you need for the photography that you do. Perhaps, challenging yourself to newer areas of photography will give you some ideas of stuff that you may need :-)

Don't forget to clean your lenses too. I rarely see spots from dust on the sensor, but often get them from a dusty lens.

First, measure the fill by itself, before plugging in the key. Then, plug in the key and measure. This is the most accurate way to measure key/fill set up. I will cover the key from the meter with my hand or a black matte board when the key is unmodified, and meter the fill. Then measure the key. When I put a softbox or a parabolic reflector on the key, I try to meaure the fill without the key plugged in.

I would suspect exposed film prior to loading if the rebate edge of the film is also fogged. If not, I'd think that the leak is from the camera(i.e., bellows, filmholder back.) Scott Kathe suggested testing the filmholders with photo paper, just a couple of days ago in the "Testing 4x5 holders" thread, which may be a simpler and less costly way of testing your backs.

A relatively new back, hasn't been worked much, a couple of dozen

rolls at max, winds film without stopping on the first frame. I

don't remember bumping it or anything that could have caused such a

problem. Anyone with similar experience with A12s? Is something

broken or perhaps time for a CLA? Thanks for any input.

I don't understand why you would risk using anything other than OEM batteries on such a pricy body. Especially while the camera is under the warranty period. Any malfunction caused by it, unlikely as it may be, would not be covered by Canon. If it were me, the savings would not be worth the risk.

<a href="http://www.universities.com/On-Campus/Masters_degree_Visual_and_Performing_Arts_Photography.html">This page</a> might be of some help.

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0013RY">photonet thread on labs in DC area</a> and

<a href="http://www.pdnonline.com">pdn online</a>

Here's a thread regarding labs in the area. http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0013RY

 

Photo District News(pdn magazine) prints nice resource books quarterly. Some of the resources are listed online (http://www.pdnonline.com). Follow the Photosource guide link, then studio guide and equipment guide.

It seems that you're thinking too much into this. Most photographers under such situations would pan with the subject.

I've used my 70-200 2.8L for about 7 years for indoor sports photos,

mounted on a monopod via the collar. Recently, I've noticed some

roughness when turning from horizontal to vertical. I see no visible

wear on either surface, and all of the screws on the lens seem to be

holding the spacers tightly. I was curious to know if anyone has

experienced the same(missed some key shots inspecting the gear, that

is) and what might help smooth out the transition when swithcing

composition formats.

Russ, You don't necessarily have to flatten the layers to print. Simply put, what you see on the monitor(given that you have enabled all layers for visibility) is what you get on the print. On the sharpening issue, yes, it is the background that is sharpened(or a copy of the background). Also, you will still see all adjustments when you apply the sharpening filter if the adjustment layers are 1] set for visibility(eye icon on each layer is on), 2] the layers are on top of any copy of the background. Perhaps reading the photoshop help files under "Using Layers" will be helpful to you.

Eric, with an image open, go to menu>layer>new adjustment layer. Then select desired layer. Do this for as many layers as you need.

Russ,

I like to keep all of the adjustments in separate layers and keep the

original image in the background. Often, when I print images, I will

find that a certain effect on the monitor is not what I expected on

the print. Keeping the layers allows me to tweak any of the layers

as necessary, at anytime. I only flatten all layers when I know that

I have gotten a satisfactory print and that I will not be printing that image at anytime in the foreseeable future.

Tough to say what caused the spots without seeing an example of it.

Light leaks from loose wind up of spool is quite common. Many photographers wrap their 120/220 film in aluminum foil post-exposure to prevent/reduce light leaks.

 

Happy shooting.

Bowens has a Forum where such questions can probably be answered quickly by people who are in the know. The following is the link:

http://www.bowens.co.uk/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=sitenews

Happy shooting.

Although I have not seen any documentation regarding the folds, it makes sense to me. It seems that there would be a possibility of the ends of the blades to crash into eachother if the bends were not present. It certainly appears to be part of the design of the leaf shutter, and nothing to be at all concerned about.

Probably just the last one. Possibly none. I've made the exact same mistake with minimal loss.