frank_scheitrowsky1
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Posts posted by frank_scheitrowsky1
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<p>The OM1/n is a true/solid classic. The OM4 is a ton of fun with its tricked-out spot metering system.</p>
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<p>Small size: Rollei 35, S, T, SE, or TE. Only downside is scale focus.<br>
Larger size: Olympus 35SP, Leica CL</p>
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<p>it's about tonality and rendering of fine detail. any decent mf camera trumps 35mm, even leica, even at smaller print sizes. (i don't know about inkjet prints, i'm talking traditional wet prints.)</p>
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<p>i own many 35mm slrs, leicas, and medium format cameras. i can see a difference in tonality and detail in 4x6 prints between 35mm and 120. leica lenses are great, but they can't cheat the physics of a larger negative, imo.</p>
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<p>the contax g1/g2 cameras are also not the best choice if quietness is a factor. their auto focus is noisy. the konica hexar af is a very quiet camera and has a wonderful (but fixed) 35mmf2 lens.</p>
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<p>For total manual control:<br>
A screw mount Barnack Leica with 35mm Summaron or 50mm colasible Elmar lens would be great - no heavier than a Canonet. <br>
Mountaineers used to take Rollei 35s on climbs, so it would be good on a bike too - fully manual control with a meter.</p>
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<p>With colour neg film, if the leak comes from the back, light has to travel through the orange mask of the film, so the light leak will appear orange.<br>
If the light leak appears whitish like yours, the leak is from the camera in front of the film emulsion.<br>
Further diagnosis can be made by noting if the light leak is contained within the film gate, or if it extends outside the film frame as in your example.<br>
As stated in a previous post, the image is formed upside down in the camera, so a light leak at the bottom of a frame as in your example, comes from the top of the camera.<br>
Good luck!</p>
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<p>Okay, but can anyone describe with words the Planar look and the Sonnar look and the differences between them?<br>
Is there more than Planar = edge to edge sharpness and even exposure, while Sonnar = sharp center with darker, fuzzy corners?</p>
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<p>Only you can decide if the potential resulting medium format prints will be worth the extra trouble.<br>
Myself, I do travel with medium format.</p>
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<p>If you paid more than $60 then you paid too much. It's a Fed 2 ussr camera and the Leica engravings are faked. It may work perfectly and give pleasing results, so it may be worth a bit, but not more than $60, and only then if it's a perfectly working camera, I'd say. How much did you pay?</p>
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<p>How about down by the beach? ;)</p>
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<p>Given that the image is upside down on the neg in the camera, wouldn't you expect the issue to be at the top of the film gate, and doesn't the FM shutter open from the top to the bottom, so that the shutter bounce would affect the bottom of the neg which would be the top in the picture? Please someone explain this. </p>
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<p>The J-12 is a very good little lens. Great value. Just like the Industar 61.</p>
<p>I'd much rather have a Leica body and Russian lenses, than the other way 'round.</p>
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<p>I'd do B+W n the IIIf, and colour in the X700.</p>
<p>I'm going on a road trip this July and will use a RF for 400 B+W, a 35mm SLR for colour, and a MF for 100 B+W.</p>
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<p>It is much much much less compact than your Elmar. This will really change the way you carry your camera.</p>
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<p>Ebyoo, Etneu, Ekooz, Emtoo, ETGUS<br>
more info here: <a href="http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/65474-early-camera-bags-2.html">http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-collectors-historica/65474-early-camera-bags-2.html</a></p>
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<p>Again, just like a slowed shutter curtain, light fogging would add additional exposure and hence density to the negative, resulting in a lightened area on the positive.</p>
<address>A dark area on the positive image (that is posted) means less exposure (or development) in that region. I'm going with the camera strap hanging in front of the lens idea.</address>
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<p>Wouldn't touching the rotating shutter dial slow down the curtain, giving more exposure to the neg, causing greater density in the neg, resulting in a lighter area/streak in the positive image which is what we are looking at.</p>
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<p>"... a Focomat Ia with a Varob 5cm 1:3,5 lens. The lens is in amazingly nice shape for its age <em>but I wanted to fit the enlarger with a 50mm</em> so I decided on a Schneider Componon-S 2.8/50. "<br>
Doesn't 5cm = 50mm?</p>
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<p>It's a good thing that this guy uses a black camera otherwise people would notice him.<br>
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<p>"I guess it comes down to whether you consider the camera as an object to look at or not. "<br>
Seems to me like you're just looking to put down others over an inconsequential choice. <br>
There's too much hate in the world already. Just relax and take pictures.<br>
The initial reason for chrome back in the 1920s, was that it resisted wear better than other finishes available. Wear, as obtained by folks using their cameras to take pictures, not as objects of art. <br>
Why not just say that you prefer black cameras. Why the judgement?</p>
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M5s and CLs are mechanical cameras. The only electronic parts are the meters. They can still be repaired. Left unrepaired, you have a meterless Leica, not such a big problem. The CLE is an electronic camera and a different story altogether..
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I found the M5 too big. I find the CL a bit small and cramped. A traditional M camera has the right amount of real estate to hang on to. I still have a CL though, because of its good points: it takes the wide and interesting assortment of M mount and screw mount lenses (with adaptor), it has a built in light meter, and it's the smallest camera that does, for when one size and weight is a consideration. A leather case helps the hold-ability of a CL and allows it to hang horizontal. For your dad, you should also consider a Bessa body where AE is an option.
Haselblad set ... is this a great deal or not really?
in Classic Manual Film Cameras
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