ann_clancy6

<p>Here are a few</p>

<p>Amadou Diallo "Mastering Digital black and White"</p>

<p>Harold Davis "Creative Black and White"<br>

Michael Freeman "The Complete Guide to Black and White Digital Photography"<br>

Tony Worobiec "Black and White Photography in the Digital Age"</p>

<p>Been using their collection for years when one program was more costly than the bundle is at this time. I would buy it now in a heart beat.</p>

<p>I had that issues with Exhibition Fiber and found I needed to apply some gentle pressure to the top of the paper . Gentle is the important word.</p>

<p>I haven't figured out how to use canvas with this printer which is not making me happy. I have seen some information on the web, but there are very serious work arounds, which is beyond what i want to attempt.</p>

<p>This sounds like what we call a "fat roll". The result of the roll being a bit loose. Just be more careful with removing, etc.</p>

<p>They are flat, HDR images need tweaking after Photomatix.<br>

Add some contrast with curves and see if your happier</p>

<p>you should be making your contact sheet with a contrast filter, using the same one with the print.<br>

Paper ages regardless of being stored in a dark place.<br>

I don't think it is the RODinal, i think it is workflow of the printing process.</p>

<p>ah, then with software it can be done in various ways. Goggle "sloppy borders" for additional information.</p>

<p>What contrast filter are you using? ALso, old chemistry and old paper doesn't help.</p>

<p>using a file out negative carrier.</p>

<p>The few i looked at have that "vintage " look of faded color prints which is very popular these days. I would think google and youtube would be helpful once you can insert the word vintage.</p>

<p>Do you mean Silver Efex pro2?</p>

<p>It is terrific and a serious improved from cs3., you might also try Topaz labs Black and white effects. It is a bit less expensive and has free up grades. They both have free trial downloads, so try them out for yourself and then you will have first hand information to make a decision.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have been using this developer for over 30 years and we use it in the lab at school all the time.<br>

We also use it as a one shot developer; meaning making a working solution from the orginal concentrate.<br>

If you developing 30 rolls and up a week then mixing the concentrate into a "stock solution" might be fine, but as has been mentioned for the average hobbiest it is not cost effective as it oxidizes easily in that form.<br>

People make all sorts of suggestion about how hard it is to measure out a small amount of the "syrup" but honestly I have had 100's of students (including teenagers) who have little if any problem.<br>

We use a small graduate to measure the developer and rinse that out with the water that is included in the total solution. One does have to be careful when reaching the total volulme but other than that , no problems.</p>

<p>Based on your own observations, stick with the lab.<br>

I love making my own prints , which is probably the result of doing darkroom work for over 64 years. </p>

<p>However, imho, good prints are more than a one click away, which for me involved hundreds of test prints etc.<br>

Folks always talk about ink cost, which of course are real, but it is also amazing how much money is spent on high end quality papers.</p>

<p>Why not shoot both at the same time, the client can have their faster transfers and you have the opportunity to be more creative with the raw files when and if you feel the need?</p>

<p>For myself, the title does not say it all. I attempt to get things right in camea and use the soft ware for being creative not "fixing" something that should never have happened in the first place.</p>

<p>However, based on the other comments perhapes I am misunderstanding the question. </p>

<p>Perhaps liquify filter in PS.</p>

<p>It is similar to what we would do with manipulating sx-70 polariod film. I have been working on trying to recreate that style since the film is no longer available.</p>

<p>ANd yes I know about the Impossible project film but I don't care about the results with the new version.</p>

<p>Call Showcase, 404.325.7676 they will have a good idea as they deal with a lot of commerical photographers.</p>

<p>You didn't mention what type of photographer.</p>

<p>If your only going to print occassionaly send them out.</p>

<p>If you love printing your own and do so on a regualar basis. Do your own.</p>

<p>I happen to love printing and use either an HP 9180 or an Epson 3800</p>

<p>I have been testing Photoengine these days and it is very realistic without a lot of work.</p>

<p>Like Scott I believe it comes down to personal vision. I must have at least a half dozen programs and use them for different effects.</p>

<p>Hm, I did use the email support form found on the tech support page.</p>

<p>Perhaps as it is a holiday week things are backed up.</p>

<p>thanks</p>

 

<p>Thanks Howard,</p>

<p>yes i did and i sent a message when my order number but haven't heard back, perhaps as it is a holiday weekend it is sitting in a box someplace.</p>

<p>If I don't hear from them next week sometime i will hunt out Jeff.</p>

<p>a</p>

<p>Trying to get a new computer up to speed and when I attempted to download some software I purchased frm pixel genius I have had issues with my serial number. It is correct as it has been used before, however, now it isn't working.</p>

<p>I attempted to email their support team using the email listed on the website that contained the downloads, but it bounces back. <br>

Anyone know if they are still in business?</p>

<p>Thanks iin advance</p>

<p>Check out Topazlabs.com they have a whole program which has a variety of "painting like effects" believe it is called Simpify.</p>

<p>It is my understanding that the ACR is the same in both programs.</p>

<p>Not likely.<br>

If you have an old print, that could be copied to make a new negative.</p>