richard_ilomaki7

<p>Philip</p>

<p>I bought an exquisite Shen Hao 8x10 about 8 years ago direct from the boss (forgot his name) in Shanghai. They even inscribed my name on the front plate. They have a small showroom in the giant camera/photo/weddings shopping mall in SE shanghai. Their website may have the address. The materials -teak and titanium- and build quality of my camera were the equal of any Ebony or Chamonix I've seen.<br>

That being said, if I were to do it again, I would go through Badger due to the language problems. I was lucky to have our office lady help me, without whom I would not have been able to do the deal. I am no longer posted in China, so...<br>

Cheers</p>

<p>ELCAN, owned and run by Raytheon, makes some if not all Panavision and IMAX lenses. They also make rifle gunsights for the US and NATO forces. If you see a picture of one of these soldiers' guns on TV, the sight is made by ELCAN. They also make elements for some Leica lenses, which they send to Germany for assembly by Leica<br>

<br />Wikileaks just released a list of possible terrorist critical sights in Canada and ELCAN was one of them!!!<br>

Cheers</p>

<p>Kelly</p>

<p>Record????<br>

I can't get the bellows and lens inside the CD player. How do you manage it???</p>

<p>My 2 cents worth.<br>

<br />I have made digital negactives via inkjet, Photoshopped them as an artisticv exercise and then made full size 8 x 10 or 6 x 9 inch negtives, then contact prints on Pt/Pd or Azo.<br>

Don't tell me those prints are not as valid as ones made from film through an enlarger, only with different outpuit media & chemicals.</p>

<p>Cheers</p>

<p>Peter<br>

<br />I don't know where you are in Canda, but you can not get better work done for a better price than from Jerry at Kindermann in Toronto: my experience there is excellent! My experience with anything Leica in Japan tells me it will be much more expensive there.<br>

For starters, and $50 you can not do better than a selected Russian lens- the 50mm f2 Industar is great at that price. They are regulars on the auction site.</p>

<p>On the latest episode of Law and Order there was an optical scanning system used to show a view of an autopsy table and the bottom of the screen had the words LEICA SCANNING.... It seems it was able to deliver a 3 D image via Intenet from a camera in teh morgue.<br>

Has anyone heard of this? Is it a product of Leitz, the guys who make the scientifc instruments and steppers for semiconductor manufacture?<br>

Interesting? OOOPS I just woke up!<br>

I Googled LEICA SCANNING and found this:<br>

<a href="http://www.leica-geosystems.com/hds/en/lgs_64228.htm">http://www.leica-geosystems.com/hds/en/lgs_64228.htm</a><br>

Its from Leica Geosystems and is a laser scanner for mapping. I guess the Leica name still means enough to use it for non-35 mm cameras.</p>

<p>Cheers</p>

<p>You don't say if you processed the film yourself.<br>

Half moons or crescents are often caused by pinching or crimping the film when loading onto a reel.<br>

Cheers</p>

<p>Hi There</p>

<p>I recently needed a lot of glossy paper for some calendars to last a year or so. I saw "Likon" glossy inkjet paper at Dollarama stores - 10 sheets of 8.5 x 11 ( 20 sheets of 4 x 6) for a (Canadian) dollar. Really great paper for general use. I can't tell how long it'll last but likely a year at least for my needs.<br>

Likon in China (of course) C-41 colour film -not bad either- and I think it is connected with Lucky.</p>

<p>Cheers</p>

<p>Hi There</p>

<p>I recently needed a lot of glossy paper for some calendars to last a year or so. I saw "Likon" glossy inkjet paper at Dollarama stores - 10 sheets of 8.5 x 11 ( 20 sheets of 4 x 6) for a (Canadian) dollar. Really great paper for general use. I can't tell how long it'll last but likely a year at least for my needs.<br>

Likon in China (of course) C-41 colour film -not bad either- and I think it is connected with Lucky.</p>

<p>Cheers</p>

<p>Hi There</p>

<p>I recently needed a lot of glossy paper for some calendars to last a year or so. I saw "Likon" glossy inkjet paper at Dollarama stores - 10 sheets of 8.5 x 11 ( 20 sheets of 4 x 6) for a (Canadian) dollar. Really great paper for general use. I can't tell how long it'll last but likely a year at least for my needs.<br>

Likon in China (of course) C-41 colour film -not bad either- and I think it is connected with Lucky.</p>

<p>Cheers</p>

<p>Hi there<br />Just 2 minutes before reading this I received my sub copy of View Camera magazine which contains a very positive review of the Microtek M1- a very glowing, positive review. I got one a few months ago and can confirm it is an excellent, but quirky device.<br />Oh well: "The only constant is change".<br>

Cheers</p>

Travis

Great work, specially the one with the lady's back in shadow but with the flower patterns visible on her back. The faces of the old men are hauntingly evocative. The images bring back memories, mostly happy, of the years I spent in Singapore. I also liked the off-level horizons, which some would consider poison, but you have then beautifully balanced.

Thanks and Cheers Lah

Glenn

In B&W C41, the silver is indeed the light sensitive medium, but it is bleached out and the image is formed by blak dye "clouds", not silver.The silver is coupled to the dye as in colur but since there are no colours as the image is in b&W.dye after the silver is gone

I have accidentally processed C41 b&W in D76 and there was a barely perecieptable image masked by a very dark, dirty brownish yellw scum. Not even a Soho "Artiste" could cl;aim it valid, or maybe there are enough rich wackos there and in LA who would buy some inage of a naked emperor.Have a nice day, Y'all

Hi Larry

I am not fully familiar with the minute chemical details of the subject but I do know that the active light sensitive metal in Pt/Pd printing is an iron salt, so any iron in the process soups MAY have an effect. I also know that the final stages in this process are not just the flushing of residual hypo, but the active chemical clearing of the salts with an active agent, then some rinsing.

I suggest waiting until you get some more authoritive reply, and suggest you hope Patrick Gainer or Sandy King get back on this.

cheers

Try 8 Elm in Toronto, or Beau Photo in Vancouver.

Cheers

Michael

That nomenclature is very scientific and accurate, starting with the general type, such as cameras. rifle, shirt etc., then going further down

the line to get it closer to the individual item. Biological species ID does the same thing: Homo - Man: sapiens - reasoning!! Maybe not all

that accurate after all. LOL LOL

Hi there

Enlargers have been used as cameras, but exclusively for copying artwork. Holding the film in the space for negatives would be very

tricky- flatness and light leaks would do you in.I have several lenses in shutters that are for copying/enlarging, but getting an LF camera on

the auction site would be MUCH more practical and infinitely more versatile.

Cheers

Rob

A perennial favourite in TO is Kensignton Market, South East of College Street and Spadina Ave. Very colourful open air markets. About a

15 minute walk from the Chelsea. Dundas Square at night is the TO version of Times Square. About 2 minutes south of the hotel.

Cheers

Ellis

I just saw it for about 5 seconds on the CNN live coverage.

I noticed that the offical panorama photo at the Dem's convention at the stadium last night was taken using what

looked like a 4 x 5 Graflex. I couldn't tell if it was a film or digital back but no questions it was a 4 x 5 with the

bellows shifted down, and likely a very wide lens. There were likely many of those on Aug 28, 1963 in Washington.

Anyone else niotice that?

Cheers

Nick

I have tried one of these and they are a quite weak- not even enough for contact printing.

What I HAVE done, is arrayed 80 of them in an 8 x 10 matrix to get a flat sheet of UV light. That is enough for simple

contact printing, as long as I moved it to diffuse the individual light sources,but still not as much as 6, 18 inch long UV

Light Toshiba or Philips tubes from an electrical supply house. I have also tried using the 8x10 array as a light source in

my reversed 8x10 camera- no luck. The individual LEDs are right at the focal plane and the projected image has the

bright spots in it. Using a diffuser plate would cut down the light intensity to where it would be ineffective.

The answer remains..., CONTACT.

Frank

I have 6, 18 inch tubes, with 1 inch between each.

Frank

Not only does the glass block a lot of UV but ordinary film does as well. I tried making the same print using film and Mylar, both same size contacts. The film took 4.5 minutes exposure 2 inches under my custom built UV source, where the Mylar took 35 seconds exposure. Extend that time difference to the distance for a 10x or more enlargement and you see how long it would be.

If you constructed an arc souce with fan, using non-UV-opaque glass for the lens and stabilized it for vibration and heat effects on the neg, it would cost you about $thousands and thousands and thousands.

The answer is still "no".

The easiest "Normal" way, and I assume you mean wet chemistry, is to make an enlarged film positive onto the film size you want your

finished print to be, then contact print that positive onto the same size film again, then make a platinum contact print. There is no way to

make a platinum print directly from any enlarging process, at least that anyone has tried and found practical. The iron salt -ferrous

oxalate- that is the actual light sensitive chemical requires much much more exposure than silver does, and UV to boot!.

I did the interpositive with one print and it took me 2 full evenings and about $20 worth of 8x10 film in exposure and development trials.

The finished print is beautiful and the effort was justified, as it is my favourite image of my younger daughter when she was 13.

I also scanned a 35 mm negative into Photoshop, then had a service bureau make a neg, then contact printed it onto Pt/Pd coated

paper. A third way is to get a 35 mm or MF colour slide, then enlarge it onto B&W large format film and then make another contact print.

These days the easiest way is via scanning a neg, or an original digital image, then making a negative on a good inkjet printer, as

described by Dan Burkholder in his books.

It is still a lot of work, unless of course you go large format- usually 5x7 or larger. I have also made a few miniature contact prints from

MF negs. That btw, was why I entered the whole LF field.

Cheers