mike_rosenberg1

Patrick,

I have often wondered about adding ascorbate to xtol as a replenisher. I assume that it would work for Na-ascorbate, that is not having to convert ascorbic acid to the Na-salt??? And do you know how long this will then last?

Thanks,

Mike

Harry,

I was wondering - where do you get the various lenses?

Thanks,

Mike

I routinely ship my 4x5 film to my destination and home by UPS. I print out a label saying FILM DO NOT X-RAY and place on each side of the box. I ship 2nd day air, and have never had a problem. This is very simple and easy.

Mike

Mario,

I have tried LVT output a few times. I have researched this on the web, and there are not many labs that offer this service; and prices can vary - as does the quality. It is limited to 8x10, but can be enlarged. I manipulate the file (250MB scan) and take it to a local lab in Raleigh NC. They give me back a 4x5, but an 8x10 would be less than 8x19 since they cannot write to the edges. I had two done, one was printable and the other was not. They change their development times based on age of their chemicals. I was working with them to standardize, but then got distracted. The negatives are in everyway like a standard TMX negative - fine grain. But unless you have a standard to match the contrast may be all over the place. If you want to only do contact printing then you are more limited, and an imagesetter negative like what Dan Burkholder describes is the way to go. Even then there is a learning curve to get the contrast levels where they need to be.

I hope that helps.

Mike Rosenberg

Like many others I have a variety of tripods and heads that I have used with my Master 2000. I would concur that the 1228 is too light for field conditions. You want to have enough leg extension that will work in the field with uneven terrain. A slight wind will upset the 1228. I use the Gitzo 1339 with the G1371 mag. head. I have tried the G1171 and it cannot hold the Master 2000 at an angle with the bellows extended (200 mm or 300 mm lens). This is why the ratings on the head are important! If price is an issue then I highly recommend getting a Tiltall - it will easily handle a Technica and comes with the incorporated head. This is my back-up tripod and used it before getting the Gitzo 1339. As for weight, it is about the same if not a little lighter. I know a lot of Technica users that have used this tripod for several decades. I bought mine used for $80 a few years back!

Regards,

Mike

You should not need a recessed board with any wide angle lens on a Tech V or IV, if you use the rear to focus. This allows you to drop the bed out of the way, and get maximum use out of the camera. Regarding long lenses, Wista and Toyo make a ring extension for a special flat board that permits further extension. Using this ring system I can use my Fuji 450 (a very light weight long lens) on my Master 2000.

Regards,

Mike

I made a sink lined with PVC sheet. As the previous writer suggested it can be cut with a table saw to size. It takes PVC cement to glue seams. I have a detailed description of how to do this on Tuan's Large Format Page. I have made sinks before with epoxy, fiberglass, and urethane. ButAll had problems from outgassing to expense.

Regards, Mike

Use Contact Sheet from the browser, select how many columns and rows you want, and cntl click the images you want on the page. All will be loaded on and sized to fit. There will be a selection box around the images that will allow you to resize and position.

Mike

Paul,

I cannot tell you whether they are the same, but I just received my LaCie 22" monitor as a second monitor. My other monitor is the Viewsonic 18", two years old. There is a big difference. The LaCie is amazing.

Mike

All,

I too had the problem. I had both an Epson and an HP printer. I contacted Epson support and was told that it was due to the conflict with the HP drivers. They suggested I disconnect the HP before printing in Photoshop. That worked, but was a pain. Then I needed to have my computer repaired and told the guy about the problem. He researched it and found that during the HP driver installation it had installed something that did not need to be there! He removed them from the start menu and I have had no issues with either printers and Photoshop since that time.

Regards,

Mike

I use the width of the tape, 1/2 inch, cut to 1/4 inch. So not very much. This tape has a backing. I put the tape on the septum in the middle at the notch end close to the edge, and ensure the tape adhres well by rubbing with my fingernail. Then I remove the backing. This way the tape will adhere more to the septum than the film. I then put the film in the septum under the flanges and then lighly press on the film to make it adhere. Rarely will the tape come off on the film when it is removed for processing, and it is easily removed.

After having adopted this method I have not experienced a jam!

Mike

Paul,

Have you tried Badger Graphics? I bought some from them 2-3 years ago. I have been using them steadily as replacements for my Grafmatics and love thme. I have reused the holders with out any problems except for the occaisonal jam. I believe the jams are caused by the film popping due to changes in humidity or air temperature. Now I used 3M double stick tape (purchased from LI) to hold the film in place.

Sorry - I am unwilling to prat eith any!

Regards,

Mike

I would not recommend using CO2!! It will dissolve in the ligquid and change the pH - NaHCO3!!

Mike

Andy,

I recommend you get the second edition of Barnbaums Photographic Arts book. He reviews reciprocity and exposing film in low light and in extreme lighting conditions, like interiors where windows bring in a lot of light but you have deep shadows. He goes over a two step development procedure using a short development in normal dilution and a long development in high dilution. I have done a lot of interior architectural photography where there are 12-to-16 stops difference and get negatives that are easy to print using the development procedure he describes.

Regards,

Mike

Frank,

It does not appear from the posted photo that it is an issue of uneven development. Uneven development would appear more along the edge of the hanger, and perhaps in the sky. It looks to me to be more a case of vignetting due to a filter or lens position.

Did you use a filter, or any shift of the lens?

Regards, Mike

If you are reasomably talented with a skil saw or have a friend who is you can make a relatively inexpensive simple sink out of PVC. I have tried epoxy paint and fiberglass, and have had a much better sink using PVC sheets The specifications can be found at:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/sink-manufacturing.html

My current sink is 20 ft x 32in, and nicely fits 20 x 24 trays.

Regards,

Mike

Danielle,

I am on a well system here in Chapel Hill NC, with a water softner system. The system not only balances the pH, but also removes the iron. Iron in NC clay has been a problem for me, resulting in yellow stains on prints and film. The salt used is "Iron-Out", which removes the iron. I have a 20 micron filter on the house system, and then a 5 micron filter on the hot and cold water to my sink. Rather than lug jugs of distilled water into the house I splurged and bought a RO system, which gives dH2O quality water. I use this for all my film develpers nad the final rinses of my film. I do not use it for paper developer or any other solution. Particulates adhering to film is a big problem, so your final rinse of film should be a soak for a few minutes and then several changes, the last with Photo-Flo.

The pH of the water for the film develop should be monitored, as others suggested, if you do not use distilled H2O.

Best of luck,

Mike

Jeff,

I had a similar problem. Epson support people solved it in less than 5 minutes. I had a second USB printer on my computer - an HP - and the drivers were getting 'crossed'. As a result PS would lock-up. They suggested before I print on my Epson that I disconnect/turn-off the HP before rebooting. Sure 'nuff I was able to print more than one picture at a time.

Mike

Condit shut down due to the retirement of the owner, who was well into his 80s I believe. He and his son made musical intruments, and the photography equipment was a sideline. He was extremely conversent on masking. His son decided to go back to school and get a teaching degree. For a brief time his son sold what inventory they had left. Howard Bond may have more information on seeing what parts are still available.

Indeed, the punches and registration negative carriers were well made. I have no problem removing a negative from the enlarger, putting on a mask, and placing the carrier back in and having it in perfect register.

Regards,

Mike

I have many times photographed with friends at various locations in the east and four corners area. In some cases we have photographed the same scene - some intentionally at the same time, and some unintentially within hours of each other. Even when photographing at the same time we have viewed and interpreted the scene very differently. Three of us photographed an Anasazi ruin - and all had different compositions, and very different printing interpretations even though we all photographed the ruin within 30 minutes of eachother.

Photography is truely and art, and the final print an interpretation of what we think we saw, and hopefully what we felt when we made the image.

I have photographed with Bruce, both as a workshop attendee and as a friend. I could never try to replicate what Bruce "sees" and brings off in the print, not because I am not as good as he (true)- but because we perceive light differently and respond to the landscape emotionally in a different way.

So I commend others who are inspired by an image to want to seek out and photograph the same, and bring out their interpretation.

Regards,

Mike

There have been some problems with the new Readyload holders. They changed the design and the new holders do seem to have a light leak that is intermittant. These new holders have slots on the sides for graflocks. In communicating with several others on the list it seems to be more prevelant with certain cameras, like the Master 2000 (which is what I have). A simple solution that stopped the leaks is to use electrical or a good plastic black tape along the seams.

I have been in contact with Kodak, and they were very responsive. They did say they are trying to redesign the holder - which is not trivial.

Perhaps someone from Kodak is monitering this site and will contribute.

Regards,

Mike

T-Max 100 has more of a straight line and less reciprocity failure, so that would be a good choice. Getting N-8 is not totally impossible. I have used Bruce Barnbaum's two step development procedure to get N-6 routinely. It is not too different a contrast range that you would encounter in slit canyons or inside buildings with windows. If you can get Bruces book, 2nd edition, he describes the principle and technique. Basically, place your shadows on Zone IV or V. Develop in your normal strength developer for 45s - 1'30" with agitation for 45s, then switch to dilute developer with intermittant agitation and increasingly longer times of no agitation. Since the lower zones develop first you get good expansion and contrast in the low tones, and then the dilute developer with little agitation allow the high zones not to over develop. I have used this technique a lot with success. If too contrasty you can then print on VC paper with low contrast.

Good luck.

Mike

Rick,

If you drive to the area east about 2 miles you will come to a parking area and cattle gate. You will pass the old trading post with a swing set. If time is short you can take a short hike across the gravel road from the parking lot to the northeast. Within a half mile you will come across some formations. If you go through the cattle gate and hike southeasterly. You may have to go 1-2 miles, but there will be a lot of formations. The best time to photograph will be early morning and late afternoon. Bright sun is harsh, and no interesting shadows. I have camped there twice, and will return again someday.

Best regards,

Mike

I found this to be an interesting thread. The example of exposure of T100 film is especially illuminating. Has anyone thought about what these lenses are doing to film while in a backpack? I would be careful on long trips! But here is another thought - this exposure would be worse with some other films.

Another thought - will these lenses be detected in the newer airport security measures? Better have your local physcists write you a note...

Mike

Ed,

You may be having a problem with the holder, not the ReadyLoads. Can you be more specific about what the light leak looks like? Is it going from the edge of the film long side into the image area? What camera are you using? I, and a couple of others, have had a problem with the latest ReadyLoads and the Linhof Master 2000. There does not seem to be a problem with the older holders and earlier models of Linhof cameras - many of my friends that have that combination report not having a problem. You can contact Kodak Professional Services at 800-242-2424, ext. 19.

And in spite of what people say about Kodak, I found them to be incredibly responsive to this problem!

Good Luck.

Mike