david_wharton
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Posts posted by david_wharton
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Does anyone have any specific suggestions for where to purchase 35mm
black-and-white film (preferably TMax 400) in Bangkok. I'll only be
there for a day before traveling north so won't have a lot of time to
look.
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seen on Bourbon Street...
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I recently inherited an M4 from my wife's uncle (#1271xxx). It's
pretty beat up but probably hasn't been used in 10 years or more. I
put a roll of film through it, and the fast shutter speeds seem
okay. The slow speeds (1/30 & slower) are very erratic, though. Any
recommendations for where (in the US) to send it to for adjustment?
How much should I expect to pay? Thanks.
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I agree with Preston (and with much of what Andrew says) about this. Documentary photography requires a commitment of time and energy that street photography does not. Documentary photography is a deeper, broader undertaking that no single image, or mere handful of images, can succeed at. It's the investment of time, energy, and perhaps (probably) photographic failure early on in a project, that eventually allow one to succeed. I made the attached image after more than a year's involvement with a pair of Primitive Baptist churches in Mississippi. Although I was no more talented a photographer when I made it than I was at the start of the project, I could not have made this image at the start, because I hadn't yet developed the familiarity that allowed me to be there or learned, as part of the process, the right way to act while there. The notion of documentary photography as process is essential, I think.<div></div>
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I've been using Fujica 6x9s since about 1985, before I had Leicas. They're a bit clunky, but the lenses are sharp, and they're they're a breeze to use (as long as you're OK with using an external, or no, meter). Not very useful in low light, though. I still use them for landscapes and portraits, and continue to be delighted with the results. (The images I don't like aren't camera's fault!)
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Now I'm scared witless. I've just recently (within the past couple of weeks) put my SF-20 away in favor of my old Vivitar 285 (on M6 TTL), because of the extra power and bounce capability, and I like the results a lot better. Now I read that I may have damaged the M6's electronics. I too had looked over the SF-20 manual pretty thoroughly and didn't see any warnings about such damage. What I want to know is, is there anybody out there who's experienced such damage? And, more specifically, what are the effects of the damage? I haven't used the SF-20 since going back to the Vivitar, so don't know if it's failing to synch, or give proper exposures, or whatever. Please advise
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The woman doesn't look very happy about being photographed. Is that the case? Does it matter?
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Oh yes, the King is alive and well in Memphis -- at least around the middle of August every year.
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I've been shooting Tri-X 120 for a long time. About a year ago, I noticed that an occasional roll would come out of the camera with the adhesive tape caught underneath the paper, making it so I can't secure the roll tightly. In the last month or so, though, almost every roll is doing this. I've taken to carry rubber bands with me, which works OK, but it's pretty awkward at times. Anyone else having this problem? Anybody got any ideas? (This is happening with three different cameras--all Fujica 6x9s, one of them brand new--so I don't think the problem is mechanical.) Any and all suggestions welcome.
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David Wharton
Tough transition from a Nikon N70 to Nikon CP8800
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
Posted