brian_c._miller3

I didn't see anything about that on <a

href="http://www.konica.co.jp/english/e_menu.html">Konica</a>'s web

page. The <a href="http://www.konica.co.jp/pdfe/INF750.PDF">IR

750</a> is still listed. I can't find a feedback button to ask them.

<p>

Locally, <a href="http://www.glazerscamera.com/">Glazer's Camera</a>

has plenty in stock, but I don't know if they do mail order.

<p>

Have you tried <a

href="http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/prod_html/sfx200/sfx200.ht

ml">Ilford SFX200</a>?

Have you thought about just letting your film hang? I have used both

Kodak Photoflo and Edwal LFN(?). I think that I like the Edwal

product better. Anyways, you don't need to wipe or squeegee the film

when you use a drying chemical. At least one guy on this forum just

uses a distilled water wash and hangs it up.

If this film is important, you might try developing it with a dilute

solution, such as Xtol 1:2. I have found that dilution to give nice

results with Tmax 400 at ASA 1600 (30min, 68F). You could expose a

couple of rolls of Neopan and run some tests before trying it with the

important roll.

Ansel Adams built his own 8x10 enlarger from an old 11x14 view camera.

My factory Omega cold light head literally consists of a round

flourescent tube and a 4x5 square of white Lexan in a can.

I used Xtol at 6 or 6.5 minutes, 68F (can't remember right off the top

of my head).

<p>

What I do is rate the film at ASA 100, then adjust for the filter.

B+W 092 (ASA 12) gives the best effect, extremely close to Kodak HIE.

Also, Ilford sells an opaque filter specifically for their film, and

it should be fine for Konica. B+W 091 (ASA 25) (for my neck of the

woods) gives good tonal seperation between deciduous trees (white) and

connifers (grey).

<p>

When I used just a red filter the film was nearly completely

uninteresting. I only got deciduous trees looking white.

<p>

Another thing I do is bracket two stops up and down, but usually my

first shot is right on. I shoot with 120 on 6x7, and I shoot two

rolls per scene. On both rolls I shoot a sequence each with 091 and

092, and I process one roll N and the other at N-1. Don't bother

pushing these films. There just won't be anything there. If you

absolutely have to have the speed, use Kodak HIE.

I use Kodak Readyloads in a Polaroid holder. They work fine.

<p>

I have been told by camera store personel that Kodak doesn't work in

the Fuji holder, and vice-versa. However, Kodak is designed to work

in the Polaroid holder.