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rainer_viertlb_ck

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Posts posted by rainer_viertlb_ck

  1. cause i needed exact informations about

    longtime exposures from 4x5" sheet films i made my own test charts and

    i want to share them here.

    i used for all the shots the same optic, a schneider 150mm apo-symmar.

    i shot on rollfilm and i used filtered hensel light at 5200k. i scanned

    the images rough on my scanmate drumscanner. i wrote a negative

    profile for each of the films in photoshop for the first shot, which

    is called reference +-0. to make it more easy to see the exposure

    changes i shot to a reference with -1 stops. the neg. profiles are

    made fast,- so dont kill me if they could be better. normally i do

    this in my colorquartet scanning software, but here i wanted to be

    sure that every scan is treated exactly in the same way,- so it seemed

    to be better to make rough scans and invert them in photoshop.

    maybe the results of the charts can help someone....

     

    i just have shooten in churches with 400nc with exp. from 8 - 30 sec.

    the results have been fine....

     

     

    the images you find here:

    http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=328021&ratings=true

  2. i dont find any data about on the kodak sheet in the net.whats doin

    the 160nc and the 400nc with exposures longer than 10sec. i will need

    around 100sec,- how is your experience about. with which asa you work

    with the 160nc? i use normally asa125 but i have little experience

    with color neg. film. how dark you can count to have shadow details in

    pictures? -1stop down with asa 125 is correct? how high you can expose

    highligts or very light zones +5 or +6 stops above....(asa 125)?. a

    lot of questions, but i want to use the film next week inside

    churches,which can have very little light....around LW3 or 4 (asa

    100). and with LF lenses and centerfilter fast you reach 100sec or

    even more.....

  3. i see there is a lot of interest in the polaroid 45ultra, cause it is

    offered chaep,- i putted some pics i made with this scanner in a

    folder under:

    http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?folder_id=325047

     

    the pics are from a prof. work i have done last year.

    in general i made good experience with the scanner, although its not a

    drum scanner. but in comparation with other ccd scanners he doesnt

    make a bad figure, little bit more bad than the imacon flextights

    ( for 4x5" )and much more better than epson flatbeds.

    bad with negatives for some chip-mirroring which is part of the chip

    design. mikrotech scanners use the same chip and have the same

    problem. this results in lightened colored stripes in hi density parts

    of negatives- very difficult or impossible to edit them. in

    architecture you can see them in white or lighten grey walls.

    good shadow detail in cromes. sharpness is not a hit but it isnt bad

    too. good color reproduction if it8 calibrated.

    very good for the money especially now.....buy it if you can do for

    600 dollar as described in other treats.

    and dont worry about dmax- this dmax numbers of ALL scanner

    manufactors are inventions, cause everybody use its own rules to

    define it.

    bout resolution nearly the same. not any of this scanners reach the

    true optic resolution.....epson3200 are around 1200 dpi, the 45ultra

    around 1800-2000 dpi if i can trust what i was reading in the internet

    from difference tests about...

  4. ...but after installing a pressure resistant water boiler and a termostated mixer unit for the water i receive really great results. comparing directly to my lab some cromes i tend to say the atl1000 results look better than the lab cromes. i process now everything at home...this means c41 and cromes, 4x5" till 35mm and sometimes b+w
  5. i am using an old atl 1000 which i bought 2.hand for 800� since i live 30km far from my lab....cause i hate to drive 2 or three times sometimes to the lab a day....which could happen especially if i am busy enough.

    the results are very homogen and good. no problems with 4x5" 120/220 and 35mm films with slides and negs. i made comparations with my lab and the slides which i make doesnt look more bad at all....

    so i am used to do this now and i dont want to miss it anymore...

    wasnt so easy to installate for the consitant water temp. but now it runs.....

  6. look for the mamiya 330 system. i was working many years with them and they are very very good 6x6 cameras with changeable lenses of highest quality ( from 55 up to 250mm )and th possibilities too shoot very slow times as the rollei also. they arent "moden" and so they are cheap.......no idea why cause the quality is top.
  7. its really not a bad scanner, although it has some weak points .you will be able to reach professional results, at least from chromes and 4x5". i was working nearly 2 years with this scanner, finally i replaced it with a drum scanner. i made a lot of comparations to other scanners before i replaced it. the difference to an imacon 646 is not that great as you would imagine if you look at the price of the polaroid. and there is NO comparation to flatbeds as the epson,- the polaroid is a professional scanner in some aspects,- the epson not at all. and the dpi of 3200 of the epson seems to be a pure invention,- the polaroid reachs around 2000 which is not bad for 4x5".....more you wont need mostly. problem are some hi density parts in negatives. the color reproduction is not pure neutral,- but this problem every ccd scanner has if you look serious to neutral grey tones.
  8. if it looks good on the light table it will be good to scan, too. and as said above overexposed aereas are not to correct, not in a scan and not in a print, cause there is nomre information in the picture. in the low zones sometimes its amazing how much can read a drumscanner in this regions,- but ofcourse its better and easier if the slide is correct exposed. whats correct? + 1/3 til - 2/3 for velvia ( exposed as asa 32 ),- but it depends clearly on the subject. if you have very dark zones where you need details,- overexpose 1 step and pull 1/2 step. than the lights will not be burnd out and the slides will become softer. the ( nearly not visible with 1/2 step pull ) color shift will not mean much in the scan, this you can correct easily.
  9. hi hector,

    yes i see the 50 frame without any problem. to see the 35 image i have to roll my eyes somehow to the corners,- but it doesnt bother me at all. when i bought the m7 i bought also a seperate 35mm viewer from vc, but now i never use it, cause without it works fine too. maybe it doesnot bother me cause i work a lot of with large format and than you are used to roll somehow your eyes to see the entire image,- this is the onliest explanation i can find why so many people complain bout the 0.85 viewers and 50 and 35mm optics ( at least together with glasses ). i cant understand,- and i use my m7 really often.

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