rainer_viertlb_ck
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Posts posted by rainer_viertlb_ck
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how remarkable stay the colors with longer exposures you can see in my chart.........
maybe it becomes better with longer exposures,- but as you easily can see all the tested neg. films shift heavily to blue casts with longer times...
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cause i needed exact informations about
longtime exposures from 4x5" sheet films i made my own test charts and
i want to share them here.
i used for all the shots the same optic, a schneider 150mm apo-symmar.
i shot on rollfilm and i used filtered hensel light at 5200k. i scanned
the images rough on my scanmate drumscanner. i wrote a negative
profile for each of the films in photoshop for the first shot, which
is called reference +-0. to make it more easy to see the exposure
changes i shot to a reference with -1 stops. the neg. profiles are
made fast,- so dont kill me if they could be better. normally i do
this in my colorquartet scanning software, but here i wanted to be
sure that every scan is treated exactly in the same way,- so it seemed
to be better to make rough scans and invert them in photoshop.
maybe the results of the charts can help someone....
i just have shooten in churches with 400nc with exp. from 8 - 30 sec.
the results have been fine....
the images you find here:
http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=328021&ratings=true
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now i have shooten some test shots to test the 160nc, 400nc, 100t and 160nps....i putted the results in a new treat...#
thanks for helping.
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lf starts logically with 6x12. or is a 4x5" film which you mask to have more panoramic effect not a lf format...meanwhile a 4x5" "fullframe" is? doesnt sound logic...
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i dont find any data about on the kodak sheet in the net.whats doin
the 160nc and the 400nc with exposures longer than 10sec. i will need
around 100sec,- how is your experience about. with which asa you work
with the 160nc? i use normally asa125 but i have little experience
with color neg. film. how dark you can count to have shadow details in
pictures? -1stop down with asa 125 is correct? how high you can expose
highligts or very light zones +5 or +6 stops above....(asa 125)?. a
lot of questions, but i want to use the film next week inside
churches,which can have very little light....around LW3 or 4 (asa
100). and with LF lenses and centerfilter fast you reach 100sec or
even more.....
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better, but give greater scans up to here to let us see more
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i see there is a lot of interest in the polaroid 45ultra, cause it is
offered chaep,- i putted some pics i made with this scanner in a
folder under:
http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder.tcl?folder_id=325047
the pics are from a prof. work i have done last year.
in general i made good experience with the scanner, although its not a
drum scanner. but in comparation with other ccd scanners he doesnt
make a bad figure, little bit more bad than the imacon flextights
( for 4x5" )and much more better than epson flatbeds.
bad with negatives for some chip-mirroring which is part of the chip
design. mikrotech scanners use the same chip and have the same
problem. this results in lightened colored stripes in hi density parts
of negatives- very difficult or impossible to edit them. in
architecture you can see them in white or lighten grey walls.
good shadow detail in cromes. sharpness is not a hit but it isnt bad
too. good color reproduction if it8 calibrated.
very good for the money especially now.....buy it if you can do for
600 dollar as described in other treats.
and dont worry about dmax- this dmax numbers of ALL scanner
manufactors are inventions, cause everybody use its own rules to
define it.
bout resolution nearly the same. not any of this scanners reach the
true optic resolution.....epson3200 are around 1200 dpi, the 45ultra
around 1800-2000 dpi if i can trust what i was reading in the internet
from difference tests about...
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is it difficult to reach a working permission to work as freelance
photographer ( architecture ) in canada. i am from germany....
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...but after installing a pressure resistant water boiler and a termostated mixer unit for the water i receive really great results. comparing directly to my lab some cromes i tend to say the atl1000 results look better than the lab cromes. i process now everything at home...this means c41 and cromes, 4x5" till 35mm and sometimes b+w
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well it change the color balance with chromes for the different temperature the water bath between the 1. and 2. bath has......
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i am using an old atl 1000 which i bought 2.hand for 800� since i live 30km far from my lab....cause i hate to drive 2 or three times sometimes to the lab a day....which could happen especially if i am busy enough.
the results are very homogen and good. no problems with 4x5" 120/220 and 35mm films with slides and negs. i made comparations with my lab and the slides which i make doesnt look more bad at all....
so i am used to do this now and i dont want to miss it anymore...
wasnt so easy to installate for the consitant water temp. but now it runs.....
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look for the mamiya 330 system. i was working many years with them and they are very very good 6x6 cameras with changeable lenses of highest quality ( from 55 up to 250mm )and th possibilities too shoot very slow times as the rollei also. they arent "moden" and so they are cheap.......no idea why cause the quality is top.
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its really not a bad scanner, although it has some weak points .you will be able to reach professional results, at least from chromes and 4x5". i was working nearly 2 years with this scanner, finally i replaced it with a drum scanner. i made a lot of comparations to other scanners before i replaced it. the difference to an imacon 646 is not that great as you would imagine if you look at the price of the polaroid. and there is NO comparation to flatbeds as the epson,- the polaroid is a professional scanner in some aspects,- the epson not at all. and the dpi of 3200 of the epson seems to be a pure invention,- the polaroid reachs around 2000 which is not bad for 4x5".....more you wont need mostly. problem are some hi density parts in negatives. the color reproduction is not pure neutral,- but this problem every ccd scanner has if you look serious to neutral grey tones.
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if it looks good on the light table it will be good to scan, too. and as said above overexposed aereas are not to correct, not in a scan and not in a print, cause there is nomre information in the picture. in the low zones sometimes its amazing how much can read a drumscanner in this regions,- but ofcourse its better and easier if the slide is correct exposed. whats correct? + 1/3 til - 2/3 for velvia ( exposed as asa 32 ),- but it depends clearly on the subject. if you have very dark zones where you need details,- overexpose 1 step and pull 1/2 step. than the lights will not be burnd out and the slides will become softer. the ( nearly not visible with 1/2 step pull ) color shift will not mean much in the scan, this you can correct easily.
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what would you prefer? which is more heavy? i will mostly use it as
tele but the possibility too shoot 1:1 with the claron isnt bad too
for me.....
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hi hector,
yes i see the 50 frame without any problem. to see the 35 image i have to roll my eyes somehow to the corners,- but it doesnt bother me at all. when i bought the m7 i bought also a seperate 35mm viewer from vc, but now i never use it, cause without it works fine too. maybe it doesnot bother me cause i work a lot of with large format and than you are used to roll somehow your eyes to see the entire image,- this is the onliest explanation i can find why so many people complain bout the 0.85 viewers and 50 and 35mm optics ( at least together with glasses ). i cant understand,- and i use my m7 really often.
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i am asking you if you think that jpeg2000 will become standard. its
lossless
compression reduce files down to app. 30% size, would be great to
archive...
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and my favourite is the M7 with 0.85.....even i wear glasses and use a lot of 35mm lenses..
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i love the 75 together with the 0.85 viewfinder, no problem wideopened to have sharp pictures. with the 0.72 it is much more difficult to use the lense .................
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for me its much more easy to focus the 1,4/75 with my m7 0.85 than the 1,4/50 with my R8, both wide opened. especially under lowlight.....
why? i dont know, i just see that with no other camera i reached so many absolute sharp pictures than with the 0.85 viewer,- i like it very much.
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thanks for your help,
bill,- does this mean that i can put the negs after having had them in the fixing solution one time again in the bleachbath?
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my atl1000 machine doesnt allow individual programming of the times of
processing. its bleach bath time is 6 minutes, tetanal c41 chemicals
want a time of 8 minutes bleach bath time. the films look good with 6
minutes too,- but i am not sure about this. what happens in the bleach
bath.....
thanks and regards from germany
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thanks joerg...
what name has such a compur shutter? i mean which size it has ?
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hi tim,
it is described here...
http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2939332224&category=8
g-claron
regards
rainer
lens selection Linhof MT2000 and TK45S
in Large Format
Posted