PaulWhiting

Thanks WW, that comparison between the camera and the copy stand never occurred to me... good point! Even though a basic copy stand is a lot simpler than a camera, your illustration remains valid - even more so. Regards, Paul

Actually, I think Rolleiflex magnifiers are similar, so you 'flex owners could chime in. Or if they're not similar you can check in and tell me I'm flat-out wrong!

Thanks, WW, pretty much what I suspected (feared!). I plan to use it on a copy stand (another vintage piece of gear, but older!) under controlled lighting, so maybe it'll serve that purpose adequately. Regards, Paul

I realize this is an early (by now) Canon P&S. It's only a PowerShot Pro-1 but has served me well. Lately its excellent lens has developed not only a haze, which I'm familiar with, but the haze has some kind of spots. This model Canon has dropped in value considerably but nevertheless is there any thing that can be done with both the haze and the spots?

Not a terribly serious issue but I have a Rolleicord IV and its magnifier pops into place easily all the way. With my V, I have to give it an extra nudge from inside the hood. So, what kind of lubricant - and where to apply it?

I'll add another vote for Verichrome Pan. Besides the points mentioned, what I appreciated is that it was available in just about any drug store. Pretty handy when traveling.

I think your most recent post was sent as I was working on my longer one! The door looks at first glance to be aligned, but you'll note a slight "hump" in the first photo. But it's a vertical hump, doesn't look like it would affect a side to side problem - which is what mine is (I think).

To your first question, yes, that part of the back (I just noticed you call this part of the camera the "door" - I think your word is better!) is supposed to push the tab down. You'll note too this section of the back's ridge's is a bit higher - see the 3rd photo. But as I observe closely, and I slowly push the back down, I watch how the tab misses that high section and slides right off into the space just before the movable pressure plate (the plate you move to set the film to 120 or 35mm). In fact, look at the worn off paint in that area... the position of that bare spot tells me it's worn from the tab sliding off into that empty space, making no contact with the thicker portion of the ridge. I just now looked at that high spot in my older Rollei IV, and the worn off paint is even across the whole surface. This indicates good contact for the tab. And my Rollei IV closes easily. I have the CLA job sheet and it mentions removing a dent in the back. I never saw the camera before the repair but I'm curious what that dent looked like. To your second question, I'm afraid to try bending the back... and no, the part that pushes the tab cannot be moved or bent, as far as I can tell. Likewise for the tab... looks straight to me. I tried bending it but again, didn't want to try too hard. These observations apply to your other questions also. There is some play in the back, from side to side, and the tab has some play as well. I can make contact between the tab and back's ridge by taking advantage of each part's play. I slide the back away from the trouble area and at the same time move the tab in the opposite direction and carefully ease the back shut. Not much contact, mind you, but enough to push the tab down. I'd be happier if the back hit the tab straight on. I'm a little afraid to try bending the back (door!) - actually I can see where it would indeed be a bend in more of a twisting motion, as you suggest. (Do you know how to remove a repeated post?) Thanks, Paul

Another mistake on my part. My first photo is way too large, I meant to upload a smaller and cropped version, less than 800 pixels wide like the others. I'm surprised the large one was accepted. I don't post photos here very often.

Another mistake on my photos... the first one is way too large, I meant to attach my cropped and smaller (less than 800 pixels wide) version. I'm surprised the large version was accepted. I don't upload photos here very often.

Sorry Paul, I had trouble uploading my 2nd and 3rd photos. I'll shut down and start over.

(Thanks for sticking with me, Paul, I do appreciated it!) Here are three photos... the first one does show a bend in the back and the second shows a "tab" in the camera body that gets pushed down as the back is closed. Finally, the third one has some text but it's not quite correct. It should say "... where the tab should make contact, but doesn't", Instead the tab falls into the empty space between the film choice back and the light trap ridge.

Thanks for that suggestion, Paul, and it's a good one. I should have said this earlier, but my Rolleicord V did have a CLA by Harry Fleenor five years ago. I got that camera on eBay and a Fleenor CLA was a real selling point - Harry also installed a Maxwell screen. I figure it was built in the period 1953-57. No paint wear on the body corners, and spotless lens. I do have another problem, which didn't show up until after the eBay return period... and that is that the back doesn't close. The "tab" in the body doesn't line up with the correct place on the back and the tab doesn't recess back into the body, If I position the tab to just a hair from normal and if I slide the back sideways another hair I can just barely get a good fit of the two. I may have posted this on photo.net or maybe it was somewhere else - I'll have to check. But wherever I posted it, no one was able to help. I suppose this question might lead to some thread drift so I'd better quit. Regards, Paul W.

Paul, Thank you... a most intensive list of sources to answer my question. After some study, I found that my Rolleicord V has a MXV Synchro-Compur whereas my Rolleicord IV has a MX. The serial numbers helped - the IV's serial # is 1386570 and the V's is 1527276. And, the V has a five blade aperture and the IV has ten. So yes there are different models of the Synchro-Compur. So - now I'm wondering what specifically it is about the different model shutters that makes that the MXV harder to cock. The answer must be in those sources but it's probably not in my paygrade. I'm somewhat relieved that the V's shutter is ok, even though it's harder to cock. Would you know, perhaps? BTW, I'm using a very useful app on my iPhone, called Shutter Speed, uploaded by a German guy. It shows both cameras' shutter speeds to be no more than 1/3 stop off, except for the highest speed which is 2/3 stop off. Paul W.

My negatives are stored in glassine sleeves... and I've saved all the boxes my paper came in. And I've checked out Print File boxes. I agree with you on the importance of presentation. Thank you!

Thanks, Sandy, I think there's a guy from that website named Mike, and his posts in PrinterKnowledge.com have been very helpful. I'll see if I can contact him... I believe he's based in Toronto. BTW, I see you're from Montana... whereabouts? I'm in Billings.

Thanks, Paul, all good suggestions. Yes, to on-line ordering. The holidays a cause? Don't think so, these issues have been happening at any time of the year. Paul

My Epson 1430 is set up with one cart containing 100% Eboni carbon ink and five carts of various dilutions of that ink. A variation is to remove one diluted black cart and use that position for a modified Cyan solution. This is to provide some cooling of the warmish carbon ink. Over the past few years I've had good luck getting my ink and cyan ink, cartridges, syringes, etc. from MIS Ink Supply but lately it's been difficult to place and receive an order. Anyone have a similar experience? Or does anyone have another source that would have a similar inventory? Thanks all, Paul

Thanks, Ed. Where would one obtain velum? We have a Michael's here, I could try them.

I have a Rolleicord IV and also a V, and both have Synchro-Compur shutters. The V's shutter is harder to cock... are there different iterations of that shutter? I hope I don't have a problem shutter in the V. It does have a little more work to do, such as the EV scale and maybe that makes it harder to cock. Thanks!

Thanks for those recent suggestions, everyone. I did go to Hobby Lobby as I mentioned a few posts back. They had some transparent "bags" (more like envelopes) named Crystal Clear. These claim to be archival and meet standards for photos. They make many different sizes and here's where I got lucky. My prints are on 13x19 paper and that was the only size the store had in stock! Reasonably priced, too, $10.99 for 25 bags.

Thanks to all of you. I won't take the time to personalize my thanks, but as they say "you know who you are" ! I have confidence in the fixative I'm using, it's called Premier Art Printshield and earns good marks from Epson and Wilhelm Imaging. As for Hobby Lobby, I'll head over there tomorrow (closed Sundays) and get a portfolio. I'll check them out for tissue separation sheets, but we have some here at home,.My wife has stored some quite large watercolors stored with tissue between them. She has graciously offered these. BTW. these photos I'm delivering are carbon ink prints and quite dry by now. Again, thanks to all. Paul

I need to transport about half a dozen prints, not through the mail, but carried in a car for a 3 hour drive away. They are carbon ink prints on 13x19 220 gm/m2 (that's grams per metersquare) paper, sprayed with a fixative. They'll be trimmed to about 13x16. What should I put between them? Once that is done I plan to put them in the stiff cardboard box the paper came in. Then I'll put the box in, I don't know what it's called, one of those flexible brownish portfolio cases with a handle. Any advice? suggestions? a better way? Thanks all, Paul

Hi Ferdi, Well, to tell you the truth, I kinda wondered about that pressure plate chapter! No problem... and your III, my IV, your Va, and my V... all share the same design it appears. That's somehow reassuring. As for the bend you see in my photo, I would attribute that to some barrel distortion in my camera's closeup mode. And the tab does indeed want to go down into that space between the pressure plate and the inner rim, as you said. Rather than bending the rim inward, I have a less intrusive solution. Both the back and the tab have some play. I very gently simply position the tab outward a tad, and slide the back in the opposite direction. I hold the camera in such a way that gravity does not undo these adjustments. Then, and only then, do the- tab and raised portion of the inner rim make contact. Someday I may send the camera in for a couple of small issues, and ask my repair guy to see if he can straighten out the back. In the meantime I'm getting pretty good at positioning the tab and the back as described. Looks like we've reached a good outcome in this thread... thank you ever so. Your spot-on analysis helped me successfully think it through, slowly and thoughtfully. Best regards, Paul