nigel_smith2

I overexpose most of my negatives... so I guess what you've done

isn't that strange! (you haven't underexposed by 1.5 stops!!) I'd

use my normal developer, maybe dropping the time a little (say 10%)

and print through the denser neg with longer exposure times.

<p>

As was mentioned, pick a methos, do a test using something less

important!

<p>

Is "8x20" inches?

I would advocate measuring how much liquid it takes to cover your

spirals and use that as a minimum, but less than the full tank to

allow that air gap for good agitation.

Do you know you can change width of the Paterson reels to suit 120?

You might want to stick with the S/S ones but if you have trouble

loading them...

My Epson Perfection 1640SU Photo scans HP5+ and Delta 3200 really

well. In fact I'd say HP5+ is the easiest to scan of the films I

use. I always scan in 14bit B&W as my experiments with scanning in

colour have not produced anything different. So other than saying ,

all is not lost, I can't really add anything useful as I haven't had

to work thru a problem.

Reala is a negative film, Velvia and Provia are positives (slides,

transparency,etc). Head over to photo.net and search for saturated

films for many opinions. I think some Agfa products get high marks

for saturation. The limited amount of Reala I've shot, I wouldn't

call it saturated at all... accurate colour with great skin tones

I'd say!

Ryuji, took your advice and used PET bottles to hold some D-76 I

mixed last night :)

I don't experience this problem with Delta 400. My final wash is a

bath in some bottled water (I think it's de-ionised.. but don't tell

Ed!) with Ilford Wetting agent, hang them with a weighted clip (35mm

one at that so it only grabs the middle section) on the bottom and

let dry.

APX-25, Konica IR750<P>

FP4+, Acros<P>

Delta 400, HP5+<P>

Delta 3200<P>

<P>So, since no-one imports Konica IR750 into Aussie I've replaced

that with Maco 820 (but haven't had the chance to use much... just

one miserable roll and summer is over according to our weather the

last two days!) Once my APX-25 supply runs out I'll probably try Pan

F+. Once an Ilford boy...

I did my 1st roll film inside out! You should still have edge

markings (numbers), otherwise the processing was cactus!

I think there must be several B&W magazines.. I know of others! The

one I'm refering to was bi-monthly (every two months) but I think

they were going to monthly. I'm actually hanging out for the next

edition.. checking the newstand daily,etc :) They didn't have a

website last edition.

There's an English magazine (Black & White Magazine) that's just

started (about 4-5 issues so far) that I've found to be a good read

with some fine pictures in it. They have various technical articles,

one I find interesting where a guy takes readers negatives and prints

them explaining what he's done and why.

Once my supply of APX-25 runs out I was intending to try Pan F with

LC29 so I'll be interested in hearing about this too. I have

processed Pan F (35mm) in Ilfosol many moons ago and I think I

thought it was great! Must dig the negs out and have a look!

in 35mm, FP4+<P>

for 120, Delta 400

Just how dirty are they? If it's just dust then blowing air may

clean them up. I just use a blower brush (with no brush) to clean my

negs and a fine quality brush (like you'd use when spotting a print)

to dislodge anything really obstinate. Another thing would be to

make sure the plastic neg sleeves are clean before pulling the negs

out of them.

"expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights" slight typo!

<P>

what this means is exposure controls shadow detail (you exposure will

govern whether you capture details in shadow areas) and development

controls contrast of the highlights, or dense areas on the negative

(not enough development and you won't get seperation in those

highlights) <P>Someone else will be able to expain this better :)

are you mixing Print development with neg exposure? Print with

suitable paper/developer or tone for 'warm' prints. Expose for

shadows and develop highlights.

I gather from your description you thump the tank down onto the

countertop? I hold my Paterson System 4 tank on one hand and tap the

side with the other. Don't think I've ever experienced air bubble

development defects. As for breaking them.. no! I bought mine about

20 years ago...

We have a friend in the UK who's neighbour has his home brew bitter

on tap in his house!

Sounds like I'm one or two outings in front of you Todd. I generally

wander around taking my "rocks and trees", occasionly sneaking a pic

of a human! Couple of times I've wanted to ask someone if I could

take their pic but haven't worked up the courage. The other day I

was taking some pics of a 'park' bench (actually by the sea) with

camera sitting on tripod, cable release in hand, etc and someone sat

on another bench nearby. I had taken a couple of shots and could

tell she was watching me so the next time I went and rearranged my

scene (I had a novel I was using as a prop) I asked her if she could

pretend to read my book for me. She agreed and we had a nice chat

about cameras (Her Husband had a Voigtlander and son a new SLR). Her

family wandered back from the pier and she wandered off with a wave.

Another couple wandered by and asked what I was doing. Getting bold

I said "waiting for interesting people to sit on the seat to take a

picture of" The lady replied "Well I'm interesting" and sat down

ready to be photographed! hehe! Don't know if I'm any closer to

actually taking 'in their face' pics though cause later I saw a girl

with very unusual and eye catching tattoo's sitting feeding seagulls

but I didn't get the courage to ask to take some pics.

Is this Ilford 'Hypam' rapid fixer? That's what it's called here

anyway. I use it 1:4 for film, 1:9 for paper. Only fixer I've used

in 20 years!

I disagree regarding consistancy. Maybe good advice for a beginner,

but I'm going to keep doing it the same way I have for the last 20

years... The only time I've had a problem was when I mixed only

enough developer for a 35mm roll and not the 120 I was developing and

I can only blame operator error on that one!