murrayatuptowngallery

Nothing like 17 years to wreak havok on old cameras & URL's.

I just got a 6x9 folder with Rodenstock Trinar in AGC/Gautier Prontor II shutter.

FW logo on lens bed, which a small leap if logic suggests is Franka Werks (guessing because I'm not familiar with Franka

and don't see a name or model on it). Usually a name is embossed on the leatherette.

Rather than assuming Mr. Monaghan is retired, does anyone know if the content referenced is online/archived anywhere

else?

Thanks

4+ years later...

I was given one of these that appears to be not original, or a different version.

Other than being in poor condition (>50% leatherette is missing, big hole in bellows, rusted peeling paint on front where

leatherette is missing...but elsewhere has typical bare metal where it's gone),

It has a Star Rapid shutter (T,B,1-1/300) and a Rifax 7.5 cm f/3.5 lens that almost obscures the shutter name.

The shutter body release lever aligns with the camera shutter button release linkage and that works, but the threads to

mount a remote shutter release is blocked by the folding arm/standard structure...so it seems that shutter doesn't belong

to the Zeitax camera...but Star was apparently also a pre- WWII Japanese brand.

This Rifax lens seems to be associated with Balda.

Lastly, is the name Gabor Szabo common? Somewhere in my basement I gave one or two Gabor Szabo (Hungarian?)

jazz guitar LP's I enjoyed alot when I had a turntable set up (also in basement in a box somewhere.

Thanks, Ken, John.

I didn't think about the inside

measurement to compare to.

I took the bellows out of at least one 3A

years ago, and may have had the

same conversation �

Last night I found an old rear frame

with most if the bellows picked off. I'll

compare inside & outside...

I remember thinking the replacement

was not an easy pre-fit in one of the

cameras... and I haven't finished

installing any.

Lots of cool stuff I forgot I had...if

buried in basement boxes = actual and

not just future cool.

Thank you...

<p>Well, interesting. In the box were a smaller number of 29915 bellows.</p>

<p>I found that one in Google, on APUG.org. Someone said that one is for one vintage of Kodak 3A, but there were several variations.</p>

<p>I can't tell the difference yet...</p>

hello:

I bought a box of replacement folding camera bellows years ago and they just surfaced in the basement.

I am pretty sure they were described as Kodak spares. They have a kraft paper band around them with the number 60320.

They are about 95x153 mm at the rear, with an aluminum plate in front that has a 37 mm diameter round opening.

My best guess is a postcard sized camera. I removed a bellows from a Kodak 3A once and it was close but not enough.

There are 12 folds, and the max. draw is about 5"/125 mm.

Any idea what they might gave been for?

Thanks

Murray

<p>Thank you.<br /><br />I'll give it a try again.</p>

<p>I don't know, and maybe it won't matter, whether it was a poor choice, but I was given a can of Mobilgrease 28 by someone, and I don't remember what convinced me to taave used some kind of synthetic grease I was given by someone who worked in an aerospace industry andke a chance with it.<br /><br />It''s least important quality is its ruby red color. I think the first rescued camera I tried it on was an Agfa with the notorious green 'cement' lube.<br /><br />http://www.mobil.com/Colombia-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENGRSMOMobilgrease_28.aspx</p>

<p>Hello:</p>

<p>I'm hoping someone can help me out.<br>

I have a mid-30's Kodak Retina I picked up for $1.22 plus tax.</p>

<p>I cleaned the hazy lens cells, got the focus helicoid freed up & went to reinstall the shutter into the helicoid<br>

and made two stupid mistakes.</p>

<p>1) I screwed the shutter body in to check it would go in OK, but I didn't not have the focus 'ring' or 'stop screw' installed, so I couldn't remove it...the shutter and moveable helicoid in the front standard just kept spinning. Probably 30 minutes later I figured out a way to remove it again.<br>

2) I put the focus 'ring' and stop screw in and now cannot thread the shutter and standard helicoids together.<br>

Another half hour later, I think I realized I didn't pay attention to the orientation of anything. I think I need to know what orientation the moving helicoid should be in and how to get the shutter body threaded back in. I must have been lucky the first time.<br>

Anyone know the proper way (orientation) to put the shutter back onto the standard?</p>

<p>Thank you</p>

<p>Murray</p>

<p>OK, found images of the Stemar, a Stereo- Nikkor and an old FED stereo 38 mm f/3,8 lens on a Leica body copy that reminds me of an Argus A body...that's enough for me...and my curiosity is tired now.</p>

<p>Thanks for the leads...</p>

<p>Thanks, all.</p>

<p>Not shopping, just curious to the extent of my original question. I like old cameras.<br>

I have old and new Kodaks...Medallist II (usable with a half-done 120-feed (620 take-up) conversion) & Retina Reflex S (shutter too slow and not needed badly enough to pay for a CLA, so I've used it for pinhole :O)<br>

We ended up with 3 Kodak digitals simply because they were on sale :O)<br>

Since I don't have terribly demanding expectations of the digital ones, I find with PC's and digital cameras, if you use your old one 'til it croaks, anything new is a couple generations improved so I haven't been disappointed.<br>

Sure there are better things out there, but for me the good has outweighed the bad...having the same rechargeable batteries and chargers for two of them is practical, and the DSC's take better video & audio than our Canon mini-DV camcorder with less hassle getting files onto DVD than the tapes. The last time I battled trying to manipulate a 12 GB .avi file read from a 1 hour mini-DV tape may be my last. I ended up paying a store to do it when I realized my time was worth more than the hassle. They complained about it too :O).<br>

Patrick Dempsey...that name sounds familiar...maybe a Polaroid rollfilm to sheet film conversion you did (Polaroid 95B or 150 or 800 or similar) some years back? I haven't figured out anything useful for malfunctioning digital cameras yet, but you sure can with film cameras!<br>

<br /> Murray</p>

<p>Hi:</p>

<p>I saw someone with an unusual-looking Kodak digital camera, a V570. It reminded me of something like an old Argus or Leica.</p>

<p>Anyone have any idea what I am remembering (or imagining?)</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Murray</p>

I have an ozone-generating air cleaner, but it's corona points or power supply are tired out - needs an overhaul,

and not a high enough priority for paying for a quoted overhaul.

Re: Lens coatings...it's safe (with proper care) on modern ('hard') coatings and uncoated lenses. By 'safe' I

mean the solution itself won't harm the coating, but any cleaning method has some risk if one unknowingly causes

abrasion.

I guess with anything from around 1940+/- 5 years that is coated, one could be safe and assume an early 'soft'

coating and be cautious or better. But ANY cleaning method can be hazardous to the so-called soft coatings. But

what do you do it you've got a coated lens that is in bad enough shape to need cleaning but not worth the cost of

having it done professionally? Maybe 'the assessment of value' is the deciding factor to risk trading one form of

damage for another vs finding a professional answer.

LEAVING mildew on a lens isn't a good option. I have one lens element (front half of a 12" Metrogon aerial

mapping lens). I thought it had something on the coating, but under a microscope I realized it was pitted with

mildew inside the pits. I had read of some molds that can form HF, hydrofluoric acid, but had only ever seen hazy

surface mold. So that lens has surface texture...

Thanks the input, all.

You know how some people leave unwanted pets near an animal shelter or the 'Cat Lady's house?

I've got two friends who send me boxes of old camera stuff because they know I'll take good care of it.

Some of my new treasures simply reek...I suspect varieties of mold I haven't smelled before.

Did you know there are over 100 000 types of mold? Great news huh?

What do you folks clean camera bodies, filmholders, etc with?

I was thinking the same stuff I clean mold off lenses with: a mix of Ammonia or Windex Original Glass cleaner,

hydrogen peroxide and some isopropyl alcohol. I'm a bit leery about getting much moisture inside, but I do get

tired of putting stinky cams against my nose.

I have left items on the roof of my car to get some UV from the sun but it didn't seem to do anything noticeable,

and I did forget and lose a camera back once when I drive off. Coffee cups are easier to replace than antique

camera backs :O(

I haven't tried it yet, but read that many molds can be killed by freezing. Maybe a plastic bag & a night in the

freezer is worth a try, then cleaning.

Thanks

Murray

Thanks.

I think the 38 mm fit my Kodak Vollenda 620 (6x9, 105 mm Schneider Xenar). Things get separated frequently.

1) What size thread is in a Series VI filter holder?

2) I have a 1.5"/38 mm push-on Series VI adapter that got separated from the it's camera, and I can't remember

which it went with!

Anyone recognize this as standard for a particular camera? (long shot)

Thanks

Anyone know how to remove the lens/shutter from this camera?

Looks like it needs a Kodak-35-style offset wrench :O(

Thanks

Murray

Thanks.

I haven't seen any universal ones as with 2A current rating, and Canon keeps the polarity a secret..I suppose no need to know if you just buy the accessory they sell - probably their intention.

Canon conveniently does not specify polarity or connector size for the CA-PS500

AC adapter.

Considering the age of our A85, $65 plus shipping is a bit much to invest.

If I knew the coaxial connector size (outer & inner dimensions) and polarity, I

would have more options.

There are less expensive generic adapters on eBay with correct voltage and

current ratings, but one honest seller told me he didn't have A85 in his list of

models, so he really didn't know about compatibility.

Has anyone dealt with this dilemma as well?

Thanks

Murray

If you 'Google' polyethylene oxide (PEO), polyethylene glycol (PEG) comes up as an alternate name.

To expand on previous mention of laxative, MiraLax and generics are PEG-3150 (or -3250?). The stuff is cheap ($2.99 for a large 355g bottle) at local drugstore chains where I live. It also is apparently useful in certain photographic developer processes (accelerator and sludge reducer in aerial film monobath process).

I was just given several (4-5) boxes of Durst Printo stuff. (Actually, I should

look inside the boxes to make sure that is what is really in there).

I am not sure what it's for. I assumed color processing or prints, and

narrow-mindedly decided I don't intend to do that...I fear finding color paper

may be harder than b/w at some point in the future.

Today I read that the system may be usable for b/w processing.

Then I had the thought...can it be used for C41 or E6 film processing? That is

something I see myself possibly wanting to do.

I think there is one Therm unit and three Intro units. I'm not sure if the Intro

is a Tank, or if I also have a 5th box that says Tank.

I am not being open-minded enough about the capabilities, so any help would be

appreciated.

Thanks

Murray

Re: The Xenar.

With Tessars and their derivatives, most people advise stopping down to at least f/8, and f/11-16 not being unusual, to keep the corners sharp. This is based on typical f/4.5-4.7 lenses found on 6x9 folders thru 4x5 press cameras. This is not unusual.

I don't know how this applies to faster ones like on 35mm Retinas, whether it would be just 3 stops down from 2.8?

The Tessar is a non-symmetical design (one cell with positive diopter value, one with negativel).

The G-Claron of either construction Dan decribed is symmetrical, having identical or nearly identical positive cells, and in its original barrel only opens up to f/9. In a shutter, regardless of calibration of the f-stop scale, I doubt the G-Claron will open up much further than f/9...limited by cell diameter, etc. That's a guess.

If one compares the G-Claron to a typical Tessar/Xenar, like at Chris Perez' lens resolution site, I think the G-Claron has higher resolution numbers. I don't know if that will be apparent on small size images but doubt it.

I think the ability of the Xenar to open up further than required for sharp corners has a good chance of being the offending reason for it not looking as sharp as you expect.

Murray

I got a cheap 43-49 mm step up ring and a Series VI filter holder. I took the thread-in filter retaining ring off the Series VI adapter. I then glued the 43-49 S-U ring into the back part of the Series VI adapter with contact cement before it dried. I then put weight on unit so it cured as aligned as I had any control over. (I've had unclamped contact cement move when drying).

When dry I painted the inner surfaces and contact cement with flat black paint.

I just noticed the one I made was on a No. 24 Series VI adapter, which best I can figure is a 42mm thread. I hope I didn't pick up the wrong ring & make an orphan one that only fits one camera I don't own.

There's an advantage of contact cement over epoxy...I can undo this if needed.

Now if I could only figure out the numbering systems of the adapters...what the heck was a No. 24?

Oh, I just figured out what a 532 was...seemed meaningless, but it's a 32mm Series 5 (or that's a coincidence).

But I have a 503 Series V ring for Iloca Stereo. That doesn't fit the above pattern >:O() .

I have some 1980's Kodachrome being given to me.

I'm not sure 20-25 year old film will be the wonderful thing it was when it was new, or worth the 9.00/roll to process.

(I will have to ask WalMart as someone suggested).

I found some intrigue in the b/w processing as it is easier to look a less-than ideal results in b/w. Or scan the color ones to b/w?

Any comments on storage qualities of UNexposed Kodachrome?

I like to shoot old film...hard to explain.

It's 126,too. Another guy is sending me a Kodak Instamatic 500. Must be the season for spring cleaning...

Anyone know reciprocity failure behavior of Copex HDP?

If not, Copex Rapid?

Thanks

Murray